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      "body": "![door_framing_pic.jpg](https://cdn.steemitimages.com/DQmbyCp1dyFHhkxdh7j4YZfjvdmhkL4qeF7Lghus4LncuUq/door_framing_pic.jpg)\n\n# **Properly Framing and Building Walls**\n\n\n\nThe first thing to know when framing and building walls, is that you will need a bottom plate and two top plates to attach the wall studs to. The double top plate is needed to comply with building code. Code requires a double top plate for load-bearing walls.\n\nLayout the bottom plate and one of the top plates at 16″ on center. That means you will place wall studs every 16 inches. This is a typical spacing for most residential construction. Place your door openings where you want them and layout the correct rough opening size. When building new construction or remodeling, it is best to stack your wall studs directly over the floor joist. \n\nGuess what? Fortunately, most floor joist are also placed on 16″ centers. There are many reasons to do this, let’s start with the obvious:\n\n* The strength of the building is increased as every stud bears directly over the floor joist, which in turn is bearing directly on the foundation.\n\n* Mechanicals such as heating and plumbing are much easier to run from floor to floor Studs stack over each other in stairwells.\n\n* Future renovations or afterthought wiring will be less difficult.\n\n* Wall sheathing and drywall panels install with less cutting.\n\nYou will need to pick a corner of the house to start all layouts from. Including floor and wall systems. The best spot to start from is where the two longest walls of the house or addition meet, or come together in a corner. \n\nUsing this one reference point to complete all layouts from will produce the best result. While this will take a little extra time, and some thought to complete, the benefits will far outweigh the minimal time investment.\n\n![wall_framing_stacked.jpg](https://cdn.steemitimages.com/DQmSz7jhejh5RHfHRjS77xJgZz4kFV4DX3aV9su5AfU2eet/wall_framing_stacked.jpg)\n\n## **Framing Your Door Rough Opening Correctly Will Make Installing Doors Go Smoothly** \n\n\n\nFirst, you must determine the size of your door. Measure the door if you already have it. If you don’t, take the actual door size you will be installing and add 2 inches to the width and two and one-half inches to the height.\n\nThis will give you the correct rough openings. The reason for the extra space is to allow room for the door frame and for space to adjust the door. Once you have all this information, it’s just a matter of where you want your door.\n\nDecide the location by taking into consideration the traffic flow and the size of items you will furnishing the room with. In bedrooms, it’s best if you can swing the door against a wall. Frame the opening close to the corner if possible, just be sure to leave enough room for the size of trim you will be using. Always use two studs on each side of the opening. The first will be continuous from the top plate to the bottom plate. This is called a king stud. \n\nThe next jack stud will be cut to the height of your door plus 2-1/2″ and minus the thickness of the bottom plate 1-1/2″ as it will rest on top of this. So your jack stud should be cut at 81″ for a 6-8″ tall door. Your header size is determined by the load it carries. If you are building a new bearing wall or cutting in a new doorway be sure to check your local building code span charts or consult an engineer to properly size the header. \n\nOnce you know the depth of the header, it’s width is cut to fit from king stud to king stud, with the jack studs fitting under it to help disperse the loads. A typical header width with single jack studs is cut 3″ larger than the rough opening.\n\nAn example: A 36″ door has a rough opening width of 38″ so your header is cut at 41″.  Also, be aware double or triple jack studs may be required based on the opening width and the load the header carries. Be sure to check code requirements prior to framing.\n\n## **Building Basement Walls**\n\nBuilding a new wall while finishing your basement is a relatively simple task that even a homeowner can tackle with a few pointers. The first step is to verify with your local building department to see if you will need a building permit. Most all codes require a means of egress from the basement when there is habitable space.\n\nIf you are building a new home, most codes require means of egress from a basement, regardless of having any habitable space. This can be accomplished with an egress window, that has minimum size and height requirements. The key here is to ask your local jurisdiction first.\n\nOnce you have the green light to start construction, start by determining the materials you will need to complete the wall framing. Layout the walls on the floor by measuring and snapping chalk lines where the bottom plate of the walls will rest. Be sure to check the chalk lines for square. It is easier to re-snap a chalk line then to move a wall.\n\nMeasure all the areas where the walls will rest on the floor to determine the linear footage of plate your project requires. Don’t forget to add in the top plates of the wall. It will take the same amount of linear footage for the top as the bottom unless the walls are load bearing.\n\n* If the bottom plate rest on concrete, it must be treated or a certain species in order to be in contact with the concrete.\n\n* If your walls are non-load bearing a single top plate is all that is required. If they are load bearing a double top plate is required.\n\nWhen framing in 16″ centers, a good rule of thumb when figuring material, is one wall stud per foot of bottom plate. This will usually give you the extra studs needs for corners and door openings. If you want to get closer, here is a site with a wall construction calculator.\n\nMeasure and cut the plates accordingly based on the chalk lines snapped. Layout all the wall studs on the top and bottom plates prior to nailing them in place. If you have enough room, build your wall laying down on the floor, this will allow you to face nail all the wall studs in place.\n\nDon’t forget, you will need space to stand the wall up also. If you don’t have room, nail the bottom and top plates in place first, then toenail the wall studs into place. \n\nRead more at: https://ezhangdoor.com/framing-and-building-walls-rough-openings-and-headers/",
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      "body": "![radish-3415773_640.jpg](https://cdn.steemitimages.com/DQmTMkMJ5dHm3XzCq857fPmgDwmvMerPVquiha2DFZnuzqg/radish-3415773_640.jpg)\n\nDespite the initial cost and time, learning how to build a raised garden bed can save you time and labor in the long run. A raised garden bed allows you to plan for optimal sun exposure, and to use the most conducive soil type for whatever it is that you plan to grow.\n\nRaising the soil off from ground level also enables maximum sun exposure and minimal weed growth. It also means less bending and twisting for you while planting and tending to your garden. Raised garden beds can help optimize plant growth in a condensed area, or allow vegetable growth in places that would otherwise be too desolate or formidable.\n\nIf you live in a rural area, raising your vegetable garden can also deter rabbits and other critters from munching on your food. Where we live there are tons of deer, so in this case it might be a good idea to build a garden cover with with some PVC pipe and screen or netting.\n\nMaterials Needed to Build a Raised Garden Bed\nThere are many ways to go about building a raised garden bed, but using wood seems to be the most common and the most aesthetically pleasing. Pre-made kits tend to degrade and warp over time, and can also be finished with harmful chemicals that could be damaging to your soil, and in turn, food.\n\nOther, less common options include cinder blocks, concrete, and rocks, but these all require more initial work and maintenance. In my opinion, they aren’t as visually appealing either.\n\nBuilding your garden out of rocks can add a nice rustic touch to your garden,  but it will then also be much more prone to weed and insect infestations.\n\nConcrete and cinder blocks can cause your garden to overheat in the summer, and make it harder to move or take down if you want to change locations.\n\nChoosing Your Lumber\nIt’s best to stay away from lumber that is treated or preserved with chemicals that can be toxic, especially if you plan to use your garden to grow edible food.  The safety of using treated wood is inconclusive, but the general consensus is that toxins do leach out of the wood and into the soil, and are then taken up by the plants (OSU).\n\nFor this guide, we’re going to be using cedar 2x12’s for our garden bed. Cedar is a naturally rot-resistant hardwood, and is also generally immune to insect infestations, making it the ideal lumber for a raised garden bed. Cedar made beds will last anywhere from 10-20 years in most cases.\n\nOther viable options are redwood or locust, and douglas fir. Redwood and locust will be high quality and last a long time, but are generally more expensive than the cheaper alternatives. Douglas fir tends to be the cheapest option, but will generally only last about 5-7 years.\n\nIf you aren’t sure how long you’ll want to keep your raised garden bed, or how long you’ll be living in the same place, it might be a good idea to go with douglas fir. This could save you up to 50% of the cost.\n\nI chose 2x12’s because plants generally need about 6-12 inches of soil to adequately grow.\n\nA good size dimension for a raised garden be is 8ft x 4ft. This gives you plenty of length to grow a wide range of plants or vegetables, but also ensures that your bed isn’t so wide that you can’t reach the middle from either side.\n\nOther Materials Needed\n3 – 2x12x8’ Lumber of your choice\nCircular Saw\nGalvanized Deck Screws\nRake\nLevel\nDrill\nTopsoil/Compost\nOptional:\n\nCorner Posts\nGarden Bed Liner\nIf you’re building a smaller garden bed, it might be a good idea to add the optional corner posts, and stick them in the ground to prevent movement, but for our case, 8’x4’ will give our bed plenty of weight, rendering the posts unnecessary.\n\nLandscape fabric or garden liner is unnecessary if you’re living in an area where the ground soil is high quality and nutrient rich. If this is the case, you can use it to your advantage, and build your garden right on top of the ground soil, with no barrier. However, liners will help prevents weeds from growing up into your garden.\n\nThere are many commercially available options for garden liners. Just search around to find the best price and size for your project. I’ve even seen people use old carpet or rugs to line their garden beds.\n\nStep 1: Location\nStart by selecting the location for the garden bed. The ideal location will have the most direct sunlight, and not be blocked by shade from the surround trees or buildings. You’ll want to choose a somewhat level spot, and make sure there’s plenty of room to walk around all sides of the garden.\n\nStep 2: Preparing the Ground\nNow you’ll want to prepare the ground where you’re going to set your garden bed. Start by marking the general area where you plan to have it sit. You can do this simply by drawing a line in the ground with your rake.\n\nNext you should pull any weeds from the area. Or you could try using some organic weed killer.\n\nThen you’ll wake to rake and loosen up the ground. If the soil is extremely dense or weed covered it might be a good idea to use a rototiller for the best results.\n\nIf you have your garden liner pre-cut, you can now lay it down where the garden bed will. If not, it might be easier to cut after assembling the bed.\n\nStep 3: Constructing the Raised Garden Bed\nYou’re now ready to begin building the actually garden bed.\nStart by cutting one of the 3 pieces of lumber in half. The resulting two pieces will make up the shorter ends of the garden bed.\n\nNext, screw the shorter end piece to the longer side piece using your galvanized deck screws and drill.\n\nYou’ll want to put the shorter piece on the inside at the end of the 8 ft. 2x12, so as not to lose any square footage in your finished garden bed.\n\nFasten two screws in through the outside of the 8 ft. side board, and into the 4 ft. end piece. Make sure the pieces are plumb and level when fastening.\nScrews should be fastened about 1 ½” from the top and bottom of the outside piece.\nRepeat these steps for the remaining three corners.\n\nStep 4: Adding the Soil\nAfter your garden bed is assembled and placed in the correct spot on the ground, it’s time to ensure your line is in place, and add the soil.\n\nThe soil type and composition can vary depending on what you intend to grow, but is ultimately the most important step in building your garden. Using the wrong soil, or nutrient deficient soil is the biggest factor in whether your plants or vegetables will adequately grow or not.\n\nGenerally a mix of topsoil, compost, and other organic materials such as peat moss will be best for a vegetable garden. It’s best to do some research after deciding what you’ll be growing in order to make the optimal combination for nutrient dense soil.\n\nRemember, raised garden beds may need extra watering in the beginning stages to ensure thorough saturation and plant growth.\n\n\nRead more at: https://ezhangdoor.com/how-to-build-a-raised-garden-bed/",
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      "body": "Congratulations @treyg! You have completed some achievement on Steemit and have been rewarded with new badge(s) :\n\n[![](https://steemitimages.com/70x80/http://steemitboard.com/notifications/firstpost.png)](http://steemitboard.com/@treyg) You published your First Post\n[![](https://steemitimages.com/70x80/http://steemitboard.com/notifications/firstvoted.png)](http://steemitboard.com/@treyg) You got a First Vote\n[![](https://steemitimages.com/70x80/http://steemitboard.com/notifications/firstvote.png)](http://steemitboard.com/@treyg) You made your First Vote\n\nClick on any badge to view your own Board of Honor on SteemitBoard.\nFor more information about SteemitBoard, click [here](https://steemit.com/@steemitboard)\n\nIf you no longer want to receive notifications, reply to this comment with the word `STOP`\n\n> Upvote this notification to help all Steemit users. Learn why [here](https://steemit.com/steemitboard/@steemitboard/http-i-cubeupload-com-7ciqeo-png)!",
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      "body": "Hi! I am a robot. I just upvoted you! I found similar content that readers might be interested in:\nhttps://www.nahb.org/en/consumers/homeownership/homeownership-articles/checklist-for-finding-and-hiring-a-builder-or-remodeler.aspx",
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      "body": "Homeowners select contractors, and to some extent contractors are interviewing homeowners at the same time to see if they would like to work for them. Finding a good fit and choosing a contractor that is qualified and reliable is essential for a smooth project. In the screening or interview process, sometimes what a contractor doesn’t say is just as important as what they do. We’ve included five clear warning signs NOT to hire a contractor.\n\n**Tips For Choosing a Contractor**\nFirst, check out this list from NAHB. It can be used to help you select a home builder or remodeler for your upcoming project:\n\n \n\n*Contact your local home builders’ association for the names of member builders and remodelers: NAHB/find. You can also ask family, friends or coworkers for recommendations.\n \n\n*Make sure the builder or home remodeler has a permanent business location and a good reputation with local banks and suppliers.\n \n\n*Find out how long they have been in the building business. It usually takes three to five years to establish a financially sound business. You want to make sure they will be around after the construction is complete to service any warranties.\n \n\n*Check out the company’s rating and if there have been any complaints filed with your local Better Business Bureau: bbb.org\n \n\n*Make sure the builder/remodeler has sufficient workers compensation and general liability insurance. If not, you may be liable for any construction-related accidents on your premises.\n \n\n*Ask the builder/remodeler to provide you with names of previous customers. If they won’t, beware. If they do, ask the customers if they would hire the builder/remodeler again.\n \n\n*Ask if you can see the builder/remodelers work, both completed and in progress. Check for quality of workmanship and materials.\n \n\n*Do you feel you can easily communicate with the builder/remodeler? Remember, you will be in close contact with them throughout the construction process and afterward as you live in your new home.\n \n\n*Make sure the builder/remodeler provides you with a complete and clearly written contract. The contract will benefit both of you. If you are having a new home built, get and review a copy of the home warranty and homeowner manual as well.\n \n\n*Be cautious of unusually low-priced bids. If the builder/remodeler is unable to pay for the materials and labor as the project proceeds, this may indicate a potential problem. Keep in mind that less expensive does not necessarily mean better!\n\n![hiriingcontractor.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmSP26EMTQJQ44STevNHQXjSkGuGPBSovrQ3kmyT3orDPd/hiriingcontractor.jpg)\n\n**5 Reasons Not to Hire a Contractor**\nSo you have saved money, scrimped on the family vacations for years, or just eliminated them all together to save up for that dream house or addition. Even if you are just hiring someone to put on a new roof or fix some of those nagging problems around the house, here are few things you shouldn’t hear when hiring a contractor.\n\n\n“I need all or 1/2 of the money upfront”\n\nIf a builder needs all the money upfront, chances are they are not someone you should be dealing with. Depending on the size of the job, 1/3 down is an amount that gives the contractor some assurance you are invested in the project and gives him some money to pay for materials.\n\n\n“I only use good subs”\n\nMake sure you know who will be working on your house. If the contractor himself doesn’t physically do the work, ask around about his employees or sub contractor. A bad sub can turn the project into a nightmare even when everything else goes smoothly. Make sure you check references not only on the contractor but sub contractors also.\n\n\n“I’ll throw that in if I get the job”\n\nContractors rarely throw something in. Make sure any additions to your contract state the work to done. Memories become forgetful as time passes. If it’s not in writing they don’t have to complete it. Just exercise diligence when asking for add on’s. Changes are most cost effective for you when you do them before the project starts or better yet before you hire someone. Always have change orders done in writing prior to the work being completed.\n\n\n“I’m licensed and I build to code”\n\nJust because an individual has a license doesn’t mean you will get quality workmanship. Good quality comes from experience and commitment to learning the trade; not purchasing or securing a license. Don’t forget code is the minimum standard that all builders must abide by. Would you want a doctor performing an operation on you that knows the minimum way to complete the procedure? I wouldn’t, neither should you hire a contractor that is only willing to do the minimum. Don’t get me wrong, I have seen over-kill that is just wasting a homeowners money. Again, this is why you need to check out the previous work of your potential contractor.\n\n\n“You don’t need a special person or license for that, we can do it cheaper”\n\nBeware of a builder wanting to remove things like asbestos or lead from your home unless he is qualified. EPA requires special training and certification for removal of materials considered harmful. If you are renovating, be sure your builder is RRP certified. You could be held liable yourself if you let someone work on your property and they don’t comply with requirements.\n\n \n\nIn summary, make sure you always check references, check for a valid license, and make sure the contractor is insured. Selecting the right contractor to work on your home or project is perhaps the most important step in the process. One important thing to ask yourself is if you really need to hire someone to complete your project. For smaller  home improvement tasks, you may be able to save time and money by learning the process yourself. However, if you’re unsure, or changing anything structural, it’s best to consult with a professional. \n\n\nFull Post: https://ezhangdoor.com/choosing-a-contractor-and-5-reasons-not-to-hire-one/",
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      "body": "Encountering door installation problems can leave you feeling helpless if you don’t know where the solution begins. Luckily, most door installation problems are quite a common occurrence, and can be fixed fairly quickly if you know what to do. We’ve compiled a list of those common problems and their resolutions. By following this guide, any installation issues you run into can be resolved easily and painlessly.\n\nMany unforeseen problems can occur when installing doors. Many of them are caused by improper framing, misaligned bottom plates, un-level floors or a wall that is simply not plumb. Obviously, tearing down walls with these problems and re-building is not a cost effective or easy method to corrections. So, how do you make your door installation look great, work properly without going through the costly and labor intensive procedures to fix them? Most door installation problems can be solved if you know a few simple tricks. \n\nDoor problems can vary widely, including:\n\nMisaligned Bottom Wall Plates\nDoor Uneven at the Top\nTrim Doesn't Fit Tight\nChecking for a Warped Door\nRough Opening too Big\nFixing a Loose or Stripped Screwhole\nDoor Closes on It's Own\nFixing a Squeaky Hinge\nFixing a Rubbing Door\nDoor Opens on It's Own\nSpacing Exterior Door off the Floor\n\nThis guide will give you simple instrcutions on how to fix each of these problems, quickly and efficiently. \n\nRead more at: https://ezhangdoor.com/common-door-installation-problems-and-fixes/![basement door.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmNkMwQBYjGE32QUL3Aybt2kFgd9F9dtrQdAgymF7t6RbF/basement%20door.jpg)",
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      "body": "Encountering door installation problems can leave you feeling helpless if you don’t know where the solution begins. Luckily, most door installation problems are quite a common occurrence, and can be fixed fairly quickly if you know what to do. We’ve compiled a list of those common problems and their resolutions. By following this guide, any installation issues you run into can be resolved easily and painlessly.\n\nMany unforeseen problems can occur when installing doors. Many of them are caused by improper framing, misaligned bottom plates, un-level floors or a wall that is simply not plumb. Obviously, tearing down walls with these problems and re-building is not a cost effective or easy method to corrections. So, how do you make your door installation look great, work properly without going through the costly and labor intensive procedures to fix them? Most door installation problems can be solved if you know a few simple tricks. \n\nDoor problems can vary widely, including:\n\nMisaligned Bottom Wall Plates\nDoor Uneven at the Top\nTrim Doesn't Fit Tight\nChecking for a Warped Door\nRough Opening too Big\nFixing a Loose or Stripped Screwhole\nDoor Closes on It's Own\nFixing a Squeaky Hinge\nFixing a Rubbing Door\nDoor Opens on It's Own\nSpacing Exterior Door off the Floor\n\nThis guide will give you simple instrcutions on how to fix each of these problems, quickly and efficiently. \n\nRead more at: https://ezhangdoor.com/common-door-installation-problems-and-fixes/![basement door.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmNkMwQBYjGE32QUL3Aybt2kFgd9F9dtrQdAgymF7t6RbF/basement%20door.jpg)",
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      "body": "Encountering door installation problems can leave you feeling helpless if you don’t know where the solution begins. Luckily, most door installation problems are quite a common occurrence, and can be fixed fairly quickly if you know what to do. We’ve compiled a list of those common problems and their resolutions. By following this guide, any installation issues you run into can be resolved easily and painlessly.\n\nMany unforeseen problems can occur when installing doors. Many of them are caused by improper framing, misaligned bottom plates, un-level floors or a wall that is simply not plumb. Obviously, tearing down walls with these problems and re-building is not a cost effective or easy method to corrections. So, how do you make your door installation look great, work properly without going through the costly and labor intensive procedures to fix them? Most door installation problems can be solved if you know a few simple tricks. \n\nDoor problems can vary widely, including:\n\nMisaligned Bottom Wall Plates\nDoor Uneven at the Top\nTrim Doesn't Fit Tight\nChecking for a Warped Door\nRough Opening too Big\nFixing a Loose or Stripped Screwhole\nDoor Closes on It's Own\nFixing a Squeaky Hinge\nFixing a Rubbing Door\nDoor Opens on It's Own\nSpacing Exterior Door off the Floor\n\nThis guide will give you simple instrcutions on how to fix each of these problems, quickly and efficiently. \n\nRead more at: https://ezhangdoor.com/common-door-installation-problems-and-fixes/![basement door.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmNkMwQBYjGE32QUL3Aybt2kFgd9F9dtrQdAgymF7t6RbF/basement%20door.jpg)",
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