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      "author": "thegearheadjohn",
      "body": "This is a particularly tricky question that came up on social media; \nso, i'm going to throw down some fundamentals.\n\n1. The equipment ( stereo, horn, ignition coil, forward lighting etc.) dictates the loads.\n\n2. The loads dictate the size of the conductor. 55W/60W headights will be on 16 or 18 gauge wires unless you have a aero-nose fox mustang with the stupid 110 W bulbs. A/C compressor clutch wiring is heavy. rear window defrost are 10 or 12 gauge.\n\n3. The circuit protection (fuse, fuse link, circuit breaker) protects the conductor and not the equipment. Don't ever put bigger fuses in when you increase the loading (until after you change the conductor). the wires will get hot, and insulation will melt through and it'll hook up with the cool conductor next to it and light up that circuit. The worst harness I've repaired so far had all 20 amp fuses in every slot in the fusebox and all kinds of melted garbage to repair.\n\n4. The voltage regulator controls the alternator output voltage for the charging circuit - the battery and the car will not draw more amps than the equipment will require. if the voltage regulator fails your alternator may make 0V or 20V. if 20V happens, the fuses will probably blow from over-current before the wires get hot.\n\nThis question is tricky but shows some missing fundamentals. Stock wiring can tolerate any regulated alternator or generator with the correct voltage output. Stock wiring can not tolerate equipment load increases of or over 20%. Stock wiring will be protected by the correctly sized circuit protection.\nFun Anecdote - i have a '57 Mercury pick up with 99% STOCK wiring and a STOCK 12V negative ground system. I took out the 38 Amp generator and installed a 120 Amp 3G alternator out of a 95 mustang. i used the Fusible link section out of the mustang harness to protect the wiring and it was super easy. I added a fuse and a relay to run the TFI ignition module and coil - also protected - also perfectly fine. zero issues - nothing melting.",
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      "author": "thegearheadjohn",
      "body": "Here's another glitch in most U-joint listings for 1974-1978 Mustang ii\n\nThe ford parts book lists the U-joints as follows:\n1974-1978 Mustang II U joint  (4602 driveshaft)\n\nE  C3AZ 4635-E  CLEVELAND 1310  (FRONT JOINT - ALL 1974-1978)\n 1-1/16\" x 1-1/16\" : 3-1/4\" x 3-1/4\"  (269/280/379/380)\n\nF  C3AZ 4635-F  CLEVELAND 1310  (REAR JOINT - ALL 1974-1978)\n 1-1/16\" x 1-1/8\"  : 3-1/4\" x 3-1/4\"  (497 a combination of UJ513 x UJ369)\n\nSKF catalog says 430  --  It does not match the Ford parts book.",
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      "author": "steemitboard",
      "body": "Congratulations @thegearheadjohn! You received a personal award!\n\n<table><tr><td>https://steemitimages.com/70x70/http://steemitboard.com/@thegearheadjohn/birthday2.png</td><td>Happy Birthday! - You are on the Steem blockchain for 2 years!</td></tr></table>\n\n<sub>_You can view [your badges on your Steem Board](https://steemitboard.com/@thegearheadjohn) and compare to others on the [Steem Ranking](https://steemitboard.com/ranking/index.php?name=thegearheadjohn)_</sub>\n\n\n**Do not miss the last post from @steemitboard:**\n<table><tr><td><a href=\"https://steemit.com/steemitboard/@steemitboard/steemitboard-ranking-update-a-better-rich-list-comparator\"><img src=\"https://steemitimages.com/64x128/https://cdn.steemitimages.com/DQmfRVpHQhLDhnjDtqck8GPv9NPvNKPfMsDaAFDE1D9Er2Z/header_ranking.png\"></a></td><td><a href=\"https://steemit.com/steemitboard/@steemitboard/steemitboard-ranking-update-a-better-rich-list-comparator\">SteemitBoard Ranking update - A better rich list comparator</a></td></tr></table>\n\n###### [Vote for @Steemitboard as a witness](https://v2.steemconnect.com/sign/account-witness-vote?witness=steemitboard&approve=1) to get one more award and increased upvotes!",
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      "body": "My buddy Don is a dyed-in-the-wool hot rodder, and a professional engineer.  I sincerely appreciate his perspectives on safe equipment, performance cars and all things mechanical and machinery related.\n\nThis post is used with his permission.  He has informed me that he's signed up for steemit.  I'll edit and tag him when he's registered.\n\nOn another social media platform Don wrote\n\n\"I follow several car related groups and see tires for sale regularly. But few seem to know some safety details about tires\n\nHere we go....\n\nTread depth is measured with a treadwear gauge OVER THE WEARBARS!!!!  If you look at a tread you should see a bit of rubber that’s not quite as deep as the tread. Those tell you when the tire has worn to the point of needing replacement. If you use a quarter between the wear bars the tire will appear to have more life than it actually has. There is a wear life note cast into the sidewall.\n\nGoogle wearbars \n\nTires have a shelf life and date codes! Most tires are good for about five years but it varies by maker. Tires over ten years old are done. If you wanna roll your car buy really old tires!\n\nThere will be folks who will say ‘My tires were installed in 1970 n theys still got tread!’ But there’s more folks who have lost lives and hot rods by pushing the used tire envelope \n\nGoogle tire date stamp\n\nRubber cracking does not always mean the tire is junk. ALL sidewall damage does mean the tire is unsafe, but if a tire is marked ‘regroovable’ cracks between tread rows is ok.\nHave a pro havea look.\n\nTires are not round. There is a runout specification for each make but finding it is a beast. Rule of thumb is more that 1/16 inch is an issue. More important is shape and balance drift. If there’s a need for balancing within a month of rebalancing the tire is delaminating internally. If bulges appear and tread blocks are wedge shaped get thee to the tire shop!\n\nStore tires on their sides with cardboard between them in a cool dark place. Remember they won’t last forever so if you are not gonna use em, sell, trade or give them away!\n\nHappy hot rodding!\"\n\nThanks Don, I appreciate your cogent post.",
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      "body": "Ok,  this took me longer to figure out than I thought it would.\n\nA pal of mine, (who will remain anonymous until he reads this and grants permission to use his name) had trouble sealing the automatic transmission pan on his ford pick-up.   I have a similar transmission in Princess, my '86 Mustang GT Ragtop.  I was worried about the transmission service, I bought the Hastings automatic transmission Pan Gasket & Filter and started in on it.\n\n![DSC01048.JPG](https://steemitimages.com/DQmRGkJFsAGvotE6xwWgi5fSvYxeeGekP85DryQ6fn6ThHg/DSC01048.JPG)\n\nThe original gasket had no sealer on it.  It was brittle.  It had shrunk.  The bolts were loose.  This was great news - I was certain that I found the source of my leak.  I got out the aerosol brake clean and cleaned the pan.  Princess is showing 288,000 km on the clock and her AOD pan only had minor dark dust in the bottom.  This car is for cruising - i'd have no issue driving it 1200-1500km on Canadian highways (in the summer) - I don't abuse things.\n\nI soaked the transmission pan bolts in transmission fluid and picked the grime off the heads with a dental pick.  (Thanks Dan for the box of dental scalers!)  The bolts were wet with fluid anyway.\n\nThe filter is held in place with three bolts (8mm head) has two seals between the filter and the valve body.  The fluid pick-up is at the back of the transmission filter. There is a rubber gasket.  Smear some ATF on it and push it into place.\n\nThe bolt holes in the transmission pan gasket are an interference fit to the bolt threads.  This is brilliant and handy because it holds every bolt in place and it keeps the gasket aligned to the pan during installation.  I installed the bolts loose because I wanted to confirm the torque specification..\n\nAfter washing my hands and conferring with the original, old school 'Shop Manual' I found the table of torque specs - This is what got me to thinking...\n\n![IMG_20180423_214225.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmNp83o78WTuiVfAMTQzj3CBQoiAajceShYzqa29wdGidd/IMG_20180423_214225.jpg)\n\nWhen one uses a torque wrench and tightens a bolt to the torque specification, it is generally assumed the the bolts and holes are clean and dry.  When an engineer writes a specification for assembly, it's for the assembly of new components in a factory, on an assembly line.\n\nThis assumption of fully clean bolt holes for any automatic transmission in recent service is ABSURD!\n\nAn oiled bolt will thread in easier than a dry bolt.  Estimated torque requirements for oiled bolts range from 40%-60% of the DRY spec..  \n\nhttp://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=173061\n\nThis means that if you torque wet transmission pan bolts to the dry spec It's over-tightened by 2.5-1.67 TIMES what is needed to compress and seal the gasket.  It's clear to me now why so many used transmission pans leak and have distorted bolt holes. \n\nSo, time for some Math and 'SWAGing' (Scientific Wild-Ass Guessing).\n\n![donkey defeats fox.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmQiJ2qzWaSDfppgVGpWXaqz7MT9q4vKzRHzDxt4PXBGsr/donkey%20defeats%20fox.jpg)\n\nThe dry spec is 6 to 10 ft-lb.  I have an inch-lb torque wrench.  So 72 to 120 inch-lb.\n\nI set my torque wrench for 50 inch-lb knowing that the bolts and the holes are wet with Automatic Transmission Fluid.\n\nThis should be the equivalent of 50/0.4 (125 inch-lb)to 50/0.6 (83.3 inch-lb).\n\nIf I had just cranked the wrench up to 120 inch-lb and tightened the wet bolts - the worst case equivalent dry torque would be 120/.4 = 300 inch-lb or 25 ft-lb - quite far from the maximum of 10 ft-lb!!\n\nSo, this explains why the bolt holes in transmission pans are almost always distorted without being 'over tightened'...\n\nI tightened the bolts in a circular pattern and did three full laps until the bolts didn't move under 50 inch-lb. I used only the 'Ultra-Cork' gasket from the Hastings Filter kit - no sealer - nothing else.  Then I lowered the car off the jack-stands - Then came the moment of truth - I put the first 4 litres in and started the car - It fired right up and I gave it 4 litres more.  the service calls for a little over 8L of Dex/Merc III for drain and fill.\n\nThere is not a single drip weeping out of that transmission.\n\nDone - Total win.\n\nWill report back at a later date.",
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      "body": "       *C - \"I think i need a fuel pump...\"*\n\n        *Me...  \"What sound does it make when you turn the key?  Can you hear the fuel pump?\"*\n\n       *C - \" kind of a buzzing clacking noise...  **bclclclclclccc.** \"*\n\n       *Me... \"that sounds like the fast buzz at the start solenoid - in my mind you probably have good voltage and you need to clean your battery posts.  Do you have a DVM or other multimeter?\"*\n\n        *C - \" No. \"*\n\nThere is honestly a 90% chance if your car doesn't turn over or start nicely, that the issue is not a bad alternator, a bad starter, a bad battery or a bad PCM..  Chances are really good that your battery posts are dirty - improperly maintained and causing charging system problems.  \n\nBuy a $5 battery cleaning brush, a $2-3 tube of petroleum jelly (Mark it for battery service so it's not used creatively elsewhere) and the red and green ( or red and black ) felt washers (I call them battery post cozies.) \n\nTo keep your battery post cleaning brush in top shape do one thing - turn it clockwise only..  ever..  if you turn it back and forth you will break the bristles off..  I don't care what you do - it's your $5.\n\nRemove the battery terminal clamps.  For most vehicles you disconnect the negative post first and reconnect the negative post last.  Some vehicles are 'positive earth' - so you handle these by disconnecting the positive post first and reconnecting the positive post last. \n\nIf you don't know how your battery is installed just follow the cables, one will connect to the body, frame and or engine block.  That's the one that you disconnect first.  You disconnect that one because it won't complete a short circuit to the body (or engine).  If you go after the wrong post first you can literally weld a wrench to the car body.\n\nGoogle the instructions on cleaning battery posts with a brush.  \n\n**Clean your Battery Posts.**\n\nThey should be clean to 'Bright metal'; not black, not yellow and fuzzy, not dull grey.. Bright - like silver glitter pen or aluminum foil.  if it doesn't look bright and metallic - keep going.\n\nGrease your felt washers put the red one on the + post, grease the battery posts and and reconnect the battery terminal clamp (positive first unless otherwise determined).  Tighten them with hand tools.  tight..  If they move at all by hand - after you tighten them - they are not tight.\n\nWorking for a retailer I sell about $1000-1500 a month in starters, batteries and alternators, and when the 'core return' comes back I try to test them.  Most cores are perfect because most retail customers do not apply diagnostic procedures.  If you would like to apply diagnostic procedures  buy a $10 DVM and save yourself $100-$300 worth (Up to about $1000 worth) of bad guessing - I'm not kidding.  There's a difference between a guess, an educated guess and measuring tool.\n\nClean the thing, then start it (jump start it if necessary), then measure the things.\nThere is a diagnostic path - I will walk through this in another post.\n\nI might even add pictures to this post later - BUT LOOK Here first.",
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