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      "body": "I've been trying to find a way to regenerate some topsoil on poor land without hauling in a lot of organic materials.\n\nI'll give a bit of backstory. In 2015 my family moved into a newly built home in the suburbs of a small city. The builders had scraped all the topsoil off of what was previously a pasture, and piled it up. They built the homes in the subsoil as here in Canada we need basements to keep the, frozen in winter soil from shifting the foundations. Rather than replacing topsoil they placed sod directly on the subsoil. They screened and sold the topsoil for further profit.\n\nI now have a small lot with difficult to grow lawns, almost no soil for any plants to grow and poor water retention.\n\nRecently I started really thinking about a way to generate some soil, but I don't want to haul in large amounts of compost and would prefer an on-site solution.\n\nI needed organic material, something I could grow and use for mulch and compost myself.\n\nI was trying to find a plant with the following characteristics:\n<ul>\n <li>Grows ok in poor/little soil</li>\n <li>Produces a large biomass</li>\n <li>Wouldn't become invasive (annual)</li>\n <li>Had somewhat woody, fibrous stalks to support fungal growth.</li>\n <li>Could absorb minerals and nutrients in plant available form</li>\n <li>Has a large root mass.</li>\n</ul>\nThe one plant I came up with that best met these criteria was sunflowers.\n\n<a href=\"https://thebluewormbin.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/sunflower-3792914_1280.jpg\" rel=\"\"><img alt=\"\" width=\"1280\" height=\"593\" title=\"sunflower-3792914_1280\" data-id=\"3034\" src=\"//thebluewormbin.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/sunflower-3792914_1280.jpg\" style=\"width: 100%;\"><br/></a>\n\nIt's winter here now so my plan will need to wait until spring but I have a plan.\n\nAround the last frost date (May 20 according to the Farmers Almanac) I'll be sowing several rows of sunflowers around my house where there is enough sunlight to grow them.\n\nI'll mulch around them after they sprout to keep it looking fairly tidy.&nbsp;\n\nIn the fall I'll have plenty of seeds for roasting as snacks and a huge pile of stalks and leaves.&nbsp;\n\n<a href=\"https://thebluewormbin.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/mulcher.jpg\" rel=\"\"><img alt=\"small wood chipprt\" width=\"225\" height=\"225\" title=\"mulcher\" data-id=\"3054\" src=\"https://thebluewormbin.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/mulcher.jpg\" style=\"width: 100%;\"><br/></a>\n<h2>The Plan</h2>\n<p style=\"\">I have a small mulcher like the one above. so I figure I'll mulch up the leaves and stems to prepare them for composting. Originally I was going to use some of this material as mulch as well. However I recently learned that sunflowers produce compounds that can interfere with or even kill other plants. &nbsp;Used coffee grounds have similar properties before composting but are useful after composting so I'm 90% sure sunflower will be the same. In a Canadian Winter its hard to keep the worms fed all winter so even if the compost isn't great at least the sunflower trimmings will be easy to store and feed over winter.&nbsp;</p>\n\n<h2>Feasibility Testing</h2>\n<a href=\"https://thebluewormbin.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/IMG_1572-e1547220307302.jpg\" rel=\"\"><img alt=\"\" width=\"1512\" height=\"2016\" title=\"IMG_1572\" data-id=\"3058\" src=\"https://thebluewormbin.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/IMG_1572-e1547220307302.jpg\" style=\"width: 100%;\"><br/></a>\n\n&nbsp; So I had 2 mammoth type sunflowers growing in summer 2018 that my son brought home barely sprouted as a Mother's Day gift for my wife. By the end of summer they were big, but not for a mammoth sunflower.&nbsp;\n\n<a href=\"https://thebluewormbin.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/IMG_1571.jpg\" rel=\"\"><img alt=\"\" width=\"2016\" height=\"1512\" title=\"IMG_1571\" data-id=\"3057\" src=\"https://thebluewormbin.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/IMG_1571.jpg\" style=\"width: 100%;\"><br/></a>\n<p style=\"\">When I knew they weren't going to grow any more, I cut them off close the the ground and ran them through the mulcher (video below). My reasons for leaving the roots in the soil &nbsp;are:</p>\n\n<ul>\n <li style=\"\">Not to disturb microbes in the root zone</li>\n <li style=\"\">To continue as food for the microbes</li>\n <li style=\"\">Once rotted to provide air and water channels into the soil.</li>\n</ul>\nAfter mulching the stalks they made a fairly decent feeding for my worms. The worms consumed the almost gallon of the shredded stalks and leaves faster than I'd expected. The feasibility of creating good casting to feed back to the soil seems good.&nbsp;\n\nWhen I plant the sunflowers I'll add a bit of basalt rock dust just to help overcome any potential mineral deficiencies there may be in my existing soil. Sunflowers are great at accumulating minerals so when the casting is applied back some minerals should go back in plant available form. &nbsp;&nbsp;\n<h2>In Conclusion</h2>\n<p style=\"\">My plan at this point seems to be feasible enough to continue with in the spring. I'll be bringing updates over the next year at least.&nbsp;</p> <br /><center><hr/><em>Posted from my blog with <a href='https://wordpress.org/plugins/steempress/'>SteemPress</a> : https://thebluewormbin.com/soil-regeneration-without-outside-inputs/ </em><hr/></center>",
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      "author": "thebluewormbim",
      "body": "<center>https://thebluewormbin.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/smoothie-drink-1966284_1920.jpg</center> <br/>Watching YouTube or participating in vermicomposting forums you'd think worms needed their food all prepped like something you'd feed an infant. Comment after comment and video after video has people blending or grinding worm food into a mushy pulp.\n<p data-css=\"tve-u-1671d9774f5\">So is it necessary? The short answer is no. Most people doing it claim it makes the worms eat faster because of increased surface area, this may be true but let's look at the whole thing with an open mind by comparing the pros and cons. This will allow you to make your own decision.</p>\nPros:\n<ol class=\"\">\n <li>Grinding or blending increases surface area of the food so microbes and worms can digest it marginally faster.</li>\n <li>Blending food MAY make finished castings a bit finer and easier to sift.</li>\n</ol>\nCons:\n<ol class=\"\">\n <li>Blending takes time and energy.</li>\n <li>Usually uses electricity- goes against some of the environmental benefits we are striving for.</li>\n <li>Blended food LOOKS like less food and can make it easy to over feed.</li>\n <li>Grinding and blending releases water from food quickly and can lead to excess moisture-making sifting and harvesting more difficult.</li>\n <li>Excess moisture released by blending can cause anaerobic conditions.</li>\n <li>As your worm farm grows beyond a bin or 2 of your personal scraps the blending and fussing takes more and more time.</li>\n</ol>\n<a href=\"https://thebluewormbin.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/smoothie-drink-1966284_1920.jpg\" rel=\"\"><img class=\"tve_image wp-image-2969\" alt=\"\" width=\"1669\" height=\"1920\" title=\"smoothie-drink-1966284_1920\" data-id=\"2969\" src=\"//thebluewormbin.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/smoothie-drink-1966284_1920.jpg\" style=\"width: 100%;\"><br/></a>\n\n&nbsp;Whether you choose to make your worms a smoothie or not, it's a good practice to add some dry bedding material with each feeding to absorb some of the extra water from your food waste. Dry bedding material can also keep airflow through the food waste and maintain aerobic conditions.\n\n&nbsp;\n<p data-css=\"tve-u-1671d8fa265\">I prefer top feeding chopped but not blended food scraps. If there is little remaining bedding, or I'm feeding something high in moisture I first layer on some dry bedding. Then I spread the food over the entire surface and cover it with another layer of dry bedding to deter bugs.&nbsp;</p>\nOthers prefer burying food scraps at one end of a bin by digging out one end filling it with food and burying it using the removed bedding/casting.&nbsp;\n<p data-css=\"tve-u-1671d9734ec\">Some people swear by pocket feeding, In this method you dig a smaller hole. fill it with food and rotate the location of each feeding with a new hole.&nbsp;</p>\n<p data-css=\"tve-u-1671d9734ec\">In short there is no wrong way to feed worms as long as you are not over feeding, providing for their needs and it works for you.&nbsp;</p> <br /><center><hr/><em>Posted from my blog with <a href='https://wordpress.org/plugins/steempress/'>SteemPress</a> : https://thebluewormbin.com/feeding-worms-grinding/ </em><hr/></center>",
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      "body": "<h2>Help a Veteran This Holiday Season</h2>\n<a href=\"https://thebluewormbin.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/14889903_192728567837341_6789701524105158622_o.jpg\" rel=\"\"><img class=\"tve_image wp-image-2996\" style=\"width: 100%;\" title=\"14889903_192728567837341_6789701524105158622_o\" src=\"//thebluewormbin.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/14889903_192728567837341_6789701524105158622_o.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1266\" height=\"1266\" data-id=\"2996\"><br/></a>\n\nI'm making a very unusual post today from my normal worm farming tips and tricks type stuff.\n\nIf you're involved with worm farming on Facebook, then you've probably seen Wayne Tadlock. He co founded and admins the Experimental Worm Fun group and is very active in many other worm groups. If he's not helping he's dropping a lighthearted pun or cracking a joke.\n\nWayne frequently posts videos that are upbeat and fun - and when you're lucky you get to hear his contagious laugh.\n\nIn some of his videos you can hear Wayne laboring in his breathing- he has a condition called COPD.\n\nEven in illness Wayne's chosen occupation was to be a health care aide in a long term care facility. You might not know that because of his condition Wayne had to drop down to part time hours and recently can't go to work at all. Luckily he has medical coverage through the Veterans Administration. But out of work it's getting hard for him to pay rent, get his meds and care for himself. You'd never know it though as through it all he's still smiling and bringing a lot of us joy.\n<p data-css=\"tve-u-1673226b072\">With Black Friday, Cyber Monday and Christmas all approaching I'd like to ask if a few of you would send Wayne some well wishes and prayers. If you are able to sacrifice one tiny purchase to help Wayne as he's helped all of us I'm placing a donation button at the bottom of this post. Thanks to technology it's set up that ALL the money will be sent directly to Wayne's PayPal. I won't be seeing or handling a cent.</p>\nIf you don't feel able to help Wayne right now your prayers are appreciated and if you could share this post so others might pray too it would be appreciated and I know he will feel the healing in his body.\n\n&nbsp;\n\n[wpedon id=\"2992\" align=\"center\"] <br /><center><hr/><em>Posted from my blog with <a href='https://wordpress.org/plugins/steempress/'>SteemPress</a> : https://thebluewormbin.com/please-help-a-veteran-this-year/ </em><hr/></center>",
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      "body": "Watching YouTube or participating in vermicomposting forums you'd think worms needed their food all prepped like something you'd feed an infant. Comment after comment and video after video has people blending or grinding worm food into a mushy pulp.\n<p data-css=\"tve-u-1671d9774f5\">So is it necessary? The short answer is no. Most people doing it claim it makes the worms eat faster because of increased surface area, this may be true but let's look at the whole thing with an open mind by comparing the pros and cons. This will allow you to make your own decision.</p>\nPros:\n<ol class=\"\">\n <li>Grinding or blending increases surface area of the food so microbes and worms can digest it marginally faster.</li>\n <li>Blending food MAY make finished castings a bit finer and easier to sift.</li>\n</ol>\nCons:\n<ol class=\"\">\n <li>Blending takes time and energy.</li>\n <li>Usually uses electricity- goes against some of the environmental benefits we are striving for.</li>\n <li>Blended food LOOKS like less food and can make it easy to over feed.</li>\n <li>Grinding and blending releases water from food quickly and can lead to excess moisture-making sifting and harvesting more difficult.</li>\n <li>Excess moisture released by blending can cause anaerobic conditions.</li>\n <li>As your worm farm grows beyond a bin or 2 of your personal scraps the blending and fussing takes more and more time.</li>\n</ol>\n<a href=\"https://thebluewormbin.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/smoothie-drink-1966284_1920.jpg\" rel=\"\"><img class=\"tve_image wp-image-2969\" alt=\"\" width=\"1669\" height=\"1920\" title=\"smoothie-drink-1966284_1920\" data-id=\"2969\" src=\"//thebluewormbin.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/smoothie-drink-1966284_1920.jpg\" style=\"width: 100%;\"><br/></a>\n\n&nbsp;Whether you choose to make your worms a smoothie or not, it's a good practice to add some dry bedding material with each feeding to absorb some of the extra water from your food waste. Dry bedding material can also keep airflow through the food waste and maintain aerobic conditions.\n\n&nbsp;\n<p data-css=\"tve-u-1671d8fa265\">I prefer top feeding chopped but not blended food scraps. If there is little remaining bedding, or I'm feeding something high in moisture I first layer on some dry bedding. Then I spread the food over the entire surface and cover it with another layer of dry bedding to deter bugs.&nbsp;</p>\nOthers prefer burying food scraps at one end of a bin by digging out one end filling it with food and burying it using the removed bedding/casting.&nbsp;\n<p data-css=\"tve-u-1671d9734ec\">Some people swear by pocket feeding, In this method you dig a smaller hole. fill it with food and rotate the location of each feeding with a new hole.&nbsp;</p>\n<p data-css=\"tve-u-1671d9734ec\">In short there is no wrong way to feed worms as long as you are not over feeding, providing for their needs and it works for you.&nbsp;</p> <br /><center><hr/><em>Posted from my blog with <a href='https://wordpress.org/plugins/steempress/'>SteemPress</a> : https://thebluewormbin.com/feeding-worms-grinding/ </em><hr/></center>",
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      "body": "&nbsp;One question I'm frequently asked is<strong> </strong><strong>how many worms do I need to start a worm</strong><strong>&nbsp;bin?&nbsp;</strong>When starting a new worm bin many of us are doing it on a budget. We usually have the bin first and want to start with enough worms but we're also aware of our spending if we are buying our starter worms. Today I'm going to help you figure out how many worms to buy based on the size of bin you're starting with.\n\n1/2 pound of worms (don't buy by the count) for every square foot of bin surface area is enough to get a fairly good start at worm farming and provides enough space to allow the worms to breed into the bin. Much lower density and the worms will compost too slowly and higher density they'll become overcrowded fairly quickly and you'll spend more than necessary.\n<h2>Calculating Surface Area</h2>\n&nbsp; So you might remember the old length x width calculation from school.&nbsp;\n\n<a href=\"https://thebluewormbin.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/7FE5942A-3F40-47C5-AEB2-BA5D813CC9F3.png\" rel=\"\"><img class=\"tve_image wp-image-2558\" alt=\"\" width=\"243\" height=\"143\" title=\"7FE5942A-3F40-47C5-AEB2-BA5D813CC9F3\" data-id=\"2558\" src=\"//thebluewormbin.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/7FE5942A-3F40-47C5-AEB2-BA5D813CC9F3.png\" style=\"width: 100%;\"><br/></a>\n\nIf we measure the bin in inches, we need to convert square inches to square feet. to do this just take the number of square inches and divide by 144.&nbsp;\n<p data-css=\"tve-u-16659cc8743\">&nbsp; Let's practice by saying the bin above is inches by &nbsp;14 inches:</p>\n<strong>24 x 14 = 336 square inches</strong>\n\n<strong>336 / 144 = 2.33 square feet. </strong>\n\nSo to get a good start the minimum we should start with is 1 pound of worms, but 2 will work if it's in our budget.&nbsp;\n\nBasic math calculations like this is about as complicated as you need to get to operate even a large scale worm farm. to increase worm populations, from here you can keep splitting bins whenever they get crowded, or you can<a href=\"https://thebluewormbin.com/inner-circle-wait-list/\" target=\"_blank\"> learn to do it the way commercial worm farmers do. </a>\n<h2>Calculating Worms Needed Based On Available Waste.&nbsp;</h2>\n<p style=\"\">Over feeding worms is a frequent problem new worm farmers run into. This is exacerbated by worm growers that sell by count instead of weight; ultimately shipping short, hoping you won't count.&nbsp;</p>\n<p style=\"\">&nbsp; If you prefer to calculate how many worms (red wigglers) you'll need to handle all your available waste there are a few more variables and the calculation is a bit less accurate. You'll often see claims that worms can eat their own weight each day. This could hold true for certain water heavy and soft foods (watermelon and pumpkin for example) in ideal conditions. However my own measurements with random food waste are closer to eating their own weight in 5 to 7 days in \"good conditions\"&nbsp;&nbsp;</p>\n<p style=\"\">&nbsp; What you'll have to do is, collect all your food waste for at least a couple of weeks and weigh it. take an average weekly weight of food waste and buy that many worms (or round down).&nbsp;</p>\n<p style=\"\">&nbsp;For example your household produces 6.7 &nbsp;pounds of waste each week then start with 6 pounds of worms to be able to keep up to your household food waste.&nbsp;</p> <br /><center><hr/><em>Posted from my blog with <a href='https://wordpress.org/plugins/steempress/'>SteemPress</a> : https://thebluewormbin.com/how-to-calculate-how-many-worms-to-start-a-new-worm-bin-with/ </em><hr/></center>",
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      "body": "<center>https://thebluewormbin.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/gullefa-1302559_1280.jpg</center> <br/><h4>Organic Fertilizers</h4>\nAre made from dead from plants and animals. Examples of organic fertilizers are: Bone Meal, Vermicompost, Manure, Kelp, Compost, and Fish Hydrolysate.\n<h4>Synthetic Fertilizers</h4>\n<p data-css=\"tve-u-164a33b75bd\"><strong>​</strong> are inorganic, they're usually manufactured in large factories using otherwise waste materials from petroleum products. Examples are Ammonium Nitrate, Ammonium Phosphate, and Potassium Sulfate, and Urea.</p>\n\n<h4>Rock powders</h4>\nare also inorganic but are generally permissible in organic food production. Examples are Greensand, Rock Phosphate, Basalt Dust, Azomiite and Zeolite.\n\n<a href=\"https://thebluewormbin.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/flour-dust-1910046_1280.jpg\" rel=\"\"><img class=\"tve_image wp-image-2741\" style=\"width: 100%;\" title=\"rock-dust\" src=\"//thebluewormbin.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/flour-dust-1910046_1280.jpg\" alt=\"sprinkling rock dust\" width=\"1280\" height=\"853\" data-id=\"2741\" /><br/></a>\n<p class=\"wp-caption-text thrv-inline-text\">Rock dusts can be used to provide trace minerals</p>\n&nbsp;\n<p data-css=\"tve-u-164a33bf014\">Plants require 13 nutrients. Three well known macronutrients; nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K).  These three nutrients are used in the largest quantities by growing plants, and must be replaced in our soil to maximize productivity and crop yields.</p>\n<p data-css=\"tve-u-164a33c3e8d\">The secondary nutrients are; calcium (Ca), magnesium (Mg), and sulfur (S). In most soils contain enough of these nutrients , so adding more is not always needed (though calcium is often used to control soil Ph).</p>\nThe micronutrients required in smaller quantities are; boron (B), copper (Cu), iron (Fe), chlorine (Cl), manganese (Mn), molybdenum (Mo) and zinc (Zn).\n\nPlants cannot distinguish between an organic or synthetic fertilizer and in fact organic fertilizers must be broken down by microbes in soil to inorganic compounds to be absorbed by plant roots. This doesn't mean though that there's no difference to the health of your plants.\n\nChemical fertilizers often add only quick release nutrients to the soil, they don’t add slow release, long term plant nutrition and seldom add the secondary and micronutrients.\n\n<a href=\"https://thebluewormbin.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/cake-2001781_1280.jpg\" rel=\"\"><img class=\"tve_image wp-image-2747\" style=\"width: 100%;\" title=\"cake\" src=\"//thebluewormbin.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/cake-2001781_1280.jpg\" alt=\"decadent chocolate cake\" width=\"1280\" height=\"818\" data-id=\"2747\" /><br/></a>\n<p class=\"wp-caption-text thrv-inline-text\">Using synthetic fertilizer would be like eating only this for the rest of your life</p>\n&nbsp;\n<p data-css=\"tve-u-164a33cc58a\">Plants also need organic matter and microorganisms. Synthetic fertilizers do not support microbiology in the soil. Synthetic fertilizer actually kills a significant percentage of beneficial microbes because they are salts and remove water from multicellular and single cell organisms by osmosis.</p>\nMicroscopic creatures break down organic matter into a more slow release meal for plants than a chemical fertilizer. Organic material is like a healthy meal in our bodies and synthetic fertilizers can be compared to living on desserts.\n\nMicrobes are crucial for improving soil fertility in the long term. Much like our own bodies would become unhealthy surviving on cake, soil, plants and biology become less healthy on a chemical diet.\n\nSome microbes convert nitrogen from the air into plant useable forms, others \"mine\" for nutrients from surrounding rock and others break down large, insoluble organic molecules into smaller, inorganic compounds that can be taken up by plant roots when dissolved in water.\n\n<a href=\"https://thebluewormbin.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/fungi-3157610_1280.jpg\" rel=\"\"><img class=\"tve_image wp-image-2748\" style=\"width: 100%;\" title=\"fungi\" src=\"//thebluewormbin.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/fungi-3157610_1280.jpg\" alt=\"a group of fruiting fungi\" width=\"1280\" height=\"853\" data-id=\"2748\" /><br/></a>\n<p class=\"wp-caption-text thrv-inline-text\">Fungi decompose \"dead stuff\" and nine for minerals for plant to use</p>\n&nbsp;\n<p data-css=\"tve-u-164a33d35d2\">Composted organic matter should increase the diversity of beneficial microorganisms in our soil. Nitrifying bacteria found in soil and compost convert organic nitrogen (often in the form of proteins from dead microbes or ammonia produced by decomposition) into inorganic nitrogen (nitrites and nitrates), in a process called nitrification. Plants may then take up the nitrogen released by these bacteria. Compost contains a surprising variety of microbes, many of which may be beneficial in controlling plant and human pathogens</p>\n• Organic matter improves soil structure, microbes produce sticky \"glues\"that hold organic materials into particles resulting in \"crumbs\" called aggregates. Aggregates allow water and air to enter the soil, roots to penetrate more deeply, and biology to grow. Diverse and active biological communities help soil resist compaction and to cycle nutrients at a rate that meets plants needs. Soil health and soil quality are terms used to describe soils that are fertile and also have physical and biological properties that sustain long term crop yields, and promote plant and animal health\"• Organic matter holds water like a sponge and enhances the fertility of soil.\n\n• Diverse and healthy microbe populations can break down contaminants in soil and water to compounds that pose less of an environmental or health hazard (bioremediation)\n\n<strong>There are some minor downsides to using organic fertilizers, but the benefits outweigh the pitfalls. Cons of organic amendments:</strong>\n\n• Organic fertilizers may have large variables in nutrient content between batches.\n\n• Organic materials are less dense in macronutrients compared to inorganic fertilizers. And rely on soil biology to work.\n\n• Organic fertilizers may be expensive to use on large scale crop production.\n\n• Organic fertilizers often lack consistent shape and size, and can be more difficult to apply as existing spreaders and equipment are designed for the uniform structure of synthetic fertilizers.\n\n• The release of nutrients relies on microbiological activity, which generally rises and falls with soil temperature and moisture content; making nutrient availability variable.\n\n<a href=\"https://thebluewormbin.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/gullefa-1302596_1280.jpg\" rel=\"\"><img class=\"tve_image wp-image-2743\" style=\"width: 100%;\" title=\"Organics can be messy\" src=\"//thebluewormbin.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/gullefa-1302596_1280.jpg\" alt=\"spreading manure\" width=\"1280\" height=\"853\" data-id=\"2743\" /><br/></a>\n<p class=\"wp-caption-text thrv-inline-text\">Organic fertilizers can be messy and potentially cost prohibitive</p>\n&nbsp;\n\n<strong>Limitations of chemical fertilizers:</strong>\n\n• Synthetic fertilizers usually do not provide micronutrients.\n<p data-css=\"tve-u-164a33d95d5\">• Synthetic fertilizers do not support microbiology in the soil and actually tend to lower the diversity and overall biomass.</p>\n• Chemicals fertilizers do not add organic matter to the soil. This prevents the production of aggregates and crumb which leaves the soil vulnerable to compaction. Compaction prevents roots from penetrating deeply and increases irrigation costs.\n\n• Synthetic chemicals can be applied excessively, and can damage roots, or create a concentration of salts that draws water from plants backwards into soil through osmosis.\n\n• Chemical fertilizers release nutrients quickly, creating a great deal of above ground growth above shallow roots. This type of growth leads to weaker, disease prone plants, with lower crop yields.\n\n• Synthetic fertilizers, because they dissolve easily, and release nutrients faster than plants use them often leach into groundwater or wetlands. This causes algae blooms and environmental issues due to the competition for oxygen in aquatic ecosystems.\n\n<a href=\"https://thebluewormbin.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/fertilizer-3045121_1280.jpg\" rel=\"\"><img class=\"tve_image wp-image-2740\" style=\"width: 100%;\" title=\"fertilizer\" src=\"//thebluewormbin.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/fertilizer-3045121_1280.jpg\" alt=\"chemical fertilizer\" width=\"1280\" height=\"842\" data-id=\"2740\" /><br/></a>\n<p class=\"wp-caption-text thrv-inline-text\">Synthetics are more uniform in shape and are easier to spread and apply</p>\n&nbsp;\n<p data-css=\"tve-u-164a33ded93\">Healthy plants produce healthy food for healthy people. Organic principles produce healthy soil to grow healthy plants. How we treat our soil suddenly becomes as important as personal hygiene in maintaining our health and living longer lives.</p> <br /><center><hr/><em>Posted from my blog with <a href='https://wordpress.org/plugins/steempress/'>SteemPress</a> : https://thebluewormbin.com/organic-or-synthetic-fertilizers/ </em><hr/></center>",
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      "body": "This will be a pretty short post today. I just wanted to honour a member of the worm farming community that has sadly departed. Jerry \"Worm Dude\" Gach was someone I never met personally, I had several email exchanges with him and always found him to be sincere, honest and respectful.\n\n<img src=\"https://thebluewormbin.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/img_1056-1.jpg\" class=\"wp-image-2789 size-full\" height=\"200\" width=\"200\"><br/>\n\nJerry carved out a niche in vermiculture as a major supplier of worms throughout the United States. He drop shipped for many suppliers and developed the Worm Inn.\n\nThe feeling I got from one particular email exchange was that Jerry was a pretty patriotic guy. He seemed very proud that the Worm Inn was American made and refused to have it made (even if cheaper) in another country. It almost seems fitting then that he left us on the 4th of July 2018 despite being far too young.\n\nI just want to send out prayers and condolences to Jerry's family in their time of loss and say \"Worm Dude: we're all gonna miss you.\" <br /><center><hr/><em>Posted from my blog with <a href='https://wordpress.org/plugins/steempress/'>SteemPress</a> : https://thebluewormbin.com/worm-farming-has-lost-a-community-icon/ </em><hr/></center>",
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      "body": "<center>https://thebluewormbin.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Eat_My_Shorts.jpg</center> <br/><p data-css=\"tve-u-164a2ff18f0\">Your mom told you to always told you to put on clean underwear in case you were in an accident (I never understood this because there's a good chance if you're in an accident that bad your gitch will be dirty afterwards anyway).</p>\r\nThe Soil Conservation Council of Canada and other groups interested in soil health. want you to filth up your panties in a challenge they're calling \"Soil Your Undies.\" The challenge is meant to check the health of your soil and is quite simple. You just get a pair of 100% cotton underwear (white briefs aka tighty-whities are the preferred type), take a before photo and bury them in your field, paddock or garden where you want to check your soil health.\r\n\r\n<a href=\"https://thebluewormbin.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/image1.jpeg\" rel=\"\"><img class=\"tve_image wp-image-2731\" style=\"width: 100%;\" title=\"image1\" src=\"//thebluewormbin.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/image1.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1242\" height=\"1449\" data-id=\"2731\" /><br/></a>\r\n\r\nHealthy soil contains a large mass of microbes, earthworms and other decomposer biology.\r\n\r\nAfter 60 days you dig up the underwear and take an after photo and post both pics to Instagram or Twitter with the hashtag #SoilYourUndies.\r\n<p data-css=\"tve-u-164a3003681\">In healthy soil with diverse biology there will be little left but elastic after the 60 day time period.</p>\r\nIf we actively work to improve our soil using organic and \"no-till\" methods the rate of decomposition of the underwear should improve as well.\r\n\r\n<a href=\"https://thebluewormbin.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/image3.jpeg\" rel=\"\"><img class=\"tve_image wp-image-2733\" style=\"width: 100%;\" title=\"image3\" src=\"//thebluewormbin.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/image3.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1242\" height=\"1254\" data-id=\"2733\" /><br/></a>\r\n<p data-css=\"tve-u-164a300ad6f\">If your soil doesn't meet the challenge this year then you need to step up your regenerative methods before next year to increase soil fertility.</p>\r\nA few ways to improve your soil are:\r\n<ul>\r\n \t<li>Increase the soil organic matter by using compost or mulch.</li>\r\n \t<li>Plant cover crops, root exudates from cover crops feed bacteria and fungi, bacteria feed nematodes, earthworms and protozoa. These in turn increase levels of plant available nutrients, in particular nitrogen.</li>\r\n \t<li>Don't till or plough your soil. In nature dead plants and animals fall on the surface to decompose and feed the soil biology- we should emulate nature for the best results.</li>\r\n \t<li>Avoid using synthetic fertilizers- these are salts and dehydrate soil biology and can even prevent efficient water uptake by plant roots if over applied.</li>\r\n \t<li>Start now learning to compost and/or vermicompost. Healthy compost contains an astonishing number and diversity of microbial life.</li>\r\n \t<li>Long term soil fertility is the result of constant decomposition and recycling of \"dead stuff.\" In nature soil is never bare. Forests drop leaves, branches and dead animals to be recycled, in grasslands stalks and stems die, fall to the ground and a new generation grows through the old. Where we farm or garden and remove crops and \"waste\" we must replace the organic matter consistently. Leaves, grass clippings, garden waste, food scraps, spent brewery grains, wood chips and coffee grounds are just a few readily available materials that can be composted and returned to the earth to promote and sustain soil fertility and health.</li>\r\n</ul><br /><center><hr/><em>Posted from my blog with <a href='https://wordpress.org/plugins/steempress/'>SteemPress</a> : https://thebluewormbin.com/healthy-soil-can-eat-my-shorts/</em><hr/></center>",
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      "body": "It isn't often there are worm farming events worth announcing far and wide. Right now I have 2 things coming up in 2018 that you should know about. The first is the 19th annual <a href=\"https://composting.ces.ncsu.edu/vermiculture-conference/speakers/\">NCSU Vermiculture Conference </a>on November 10th &amp; 11th 2018 in Raleigh NC. To register for the conference go <a href=\"https://commerce.cashnet.com/cashnetg/selfserve/EditItem.aspx?PC=CALS7-VCONF&ItemCount=1\">here</a>. This year the conference falls on a weekend and the lineup of speakers looks impressive so far.\n\n<a href=\"https://composting.ces.ncsu.edu/about-composting/\">Rhonda Sherman</a> the chief organizer of the event has, what promises to be an excellent new book coming out on November 6th 2018 called <a target=\"_blank\" href=\"https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1603587799/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=1603587799&linkCode=as2&tag=thblwobi-20&linkId=b834aa64f217583dd62081bff35e5c37\">The Worm Farmer’s Handbook: Mid- to Large-Scale Vermicomposting for Farms, Businesses, Municipalities, Schools, and Institutions</a>\n\nRhonda has travelled the world teaching vermiculture and is a leading researcher with many publications to her credit. Rhonda also had a large role in (what I consider) the ultimate guide to working with worms (so far) <a target=\"_blank\" href=\"https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1439809879/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=1439809879&linkCode=as2&tag=thblwobi-20&linkId=68634265d1ad1fefda91aac724477d28\">Vermiculture Technology: Earthworms, Organic Wastes, and Environmental Management</a>\n\nAll in all the end of 2018 looks like  an exciting time for worm farming fanatics.\n\nI will unfortunately be unable to attend the conference but it's sure to be a great time and an awesome learning experience for all.<br /><center><hr/><em>Posted from my blog with <a href='https://wordpress.org/plugins/steempress/'>SteemPress</a> : https://thebluewormbin.com/upcoming-events-in-worm-farming/</em><hr/></center>",
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      "body": "I believe we have to start addressing this issue, but politicians just keep ignoring the important stuff. It's in the hands of the people to \"take care of their shit\", literally. \n\nI have plans for the near future to start vermicomposting, so this is very valuable information for me. Thank you very much for another great post, and for your effort to help our planet and life.",
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