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      "body": "Thanks for the helpful tips! I'd not thought of digging trenches. We have about an inch of topsoil over heavy clay. We planted about 4 pounds last year but blister beetles ate the tops before they flowered so the growth was stunted. I want to grow many potatoes this year but haven't figured out a solution for keeping the blister beetles away. Do you have any suggestions?",
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      "body": "<p>Spring is sprung. Daffodils are in their full glory, blossoms are on the fruit trees, and if you planned ahead, starts are being hardened off, getting ready to be planted out into beds. The growing season is about to get off to a full start so get your garden forks out and your gloves on (if you use them). There’s plenty to do.\n\n![planting-out.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmPvPp7fg35Q1ckh82bzMQMtvuhqWeU4hpSjG6FPj2ra4g/planting-out.jpg)\n<p><i>Starts planted out in a polyculture. Notice the fine layer of mulch. It helps protects the plants and modulates water, but can be a hiding place for slugs, so slug patrol is needed.</i>\n<h3>What to Sow Outside\n</h3>\n<p>Just about any half-hardy plants can now be sown outside. Root crops will especially love our typical Cascadian April cool weather.\n<UL>\n<li>Carrots</li>\n<li>Leeks</li>\n<li>Green Onions</li>\n<li>Dill</li>\n<li>Fennel</li>\n<li>Lovage</li>\n<li>Parsnip</li>\n<li>Parsley</li>\n<li>Broccoli</li>\n<li>Arugula</li>\n<li>Brussels Sprouts</li>\n<li>Cress</li>\n<li> Kohlrabi</li>\n<li>Radishes</li>\n<li>Turnips</li>\n<li>Beets</li>\n<li>Spinach</li>\n<li>Swiss Chard</li>\n<li>Quinoa</li>\n<li>Burdock</li>\n<li>Lettuce</li>\n<li>Jerusalem Artichokes</li>\n<li>Salsify</li>\n<li>Snap, Snow, and Shelling Peas</li>\n<li>Anise Hyssop</li>\n<li>Potatoes</li>\n<li>Cilantro</li>\n\n</UL>\n\n![mustard-start.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmVaHYbrVMr1ajdAit9obaigVvZ5hWnEKPBgUpLL7izQsa/mustard-start.jpg)\n<p><i>This happy little mustard start was sown indoors in late February.</i>\n<h4>Late April\n</h4>\n<p>\nMost parts of maritime Cascadia are frost free by mid-April, meaning you can plant out crops that are a bit more tender. These plants can take a late surprise of frost, but won’t do well in seriously cold weather.\n\n<ul>\n<li>Cabbage\n</li>\n<li>Scarlet Runner Beans (though I’d honestly wait until May to plant these outside)\n</li>\n<li>Lambsquarters\n</li>\n<li>Purslane\n</li>\n\n</ul>\n<h3>Flowers</h3>\n<p>Hardy annuals that can tolerate warm summers can now be sown outside.\n<ul>\n<li>Borage (seriously good for bees, leaves and flowers taste great)\n</li>\n<li>Calendula (pretty, medicinal, and the flowers are great in salads)\n</li>\n<li>Nasturtium (pretty, spicy tasting flowers)\n</li>\n</ul>\n<h4>Late April</h4>\n<p>After the last frost is the time to sow summer blooming half-hardy annuals.\n<ul>\n<li>Canna Lillies\n</li>\n<li>Cosmos\n</li>\n<li>Gladiolus\n</li>\n<li>Sunflowers (yay!)\n</li>\n</UL>\n<h3>What to Sow Indoors</h3>\n<p>\n<li>Tomatillo\n</li>\n<li>Ground Cherry\n</li>\n<li>Garden Huckleberry\n</li>\n<h4>Late April</h4>\n<p>They say that squash plants do not transplant well, but I’ve always had good luck with them. (Use plantable containers made of peat, dung, cardboard, paper, or, eggshells.) The recommended option is to sow them under a cloche (except for melons—you have to use a plantable container for them).\n<UL>\n<LI>Cucumbers\n</LI>\n<LI>Melons\n</LI>\n<LI>Pumpkin\n</LI>\n<LI>Summer Squash\n</LI>\n<LI>Winter Squash\n</LI>\n<LI>Basil\n</LI>\n</UL>\n\n![tatsoi.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmQZgTEwEm7aDC6FGuBvGgyXJFMFn8AujgJ1UBps8ukkto/tatsoi.jpg)\n<p><i> A February-sown tatsoi plant happily sharing a bed with the mustard. Remember, while polycultures are advised, they won't stop you from having to rotate your brassicas to avoid Club Foot, so it's helpful to plant them together.\n<h3>What to do in the garden:\n</h3>\n<P><b>Weeding:</b>If you didn’t get a chance to weed your garlic or your perennial beds, now’s the time to do it before the uninvited guests go to seed. \n<P><b>Successional Plantings:</b> Now’s a great time to start successional plantings of spinach, lettuce, spinach, peas and radishes. These are all plants that thrive in cool weather.\n\n<P><b>Staking: </b>By now you’re February or March-sown peas should be up. Make sure you have something ready for them to climb.\n\n<P><b>The Soil: </b> If your soil is workable (ours is barely), then this is a good time to till in your cover crops or augment your beds with well-rotted manure and/or compost.\n\n<P><b>Carrots: </b>We’ve had some dry weather lately and if you’ve planted carrots, you’ll need to remember to keep the soil moist. Carrots are notoriously challenging to germinate, with one of the main mistakes being letting the soil dry out.\n\n<P><b>Slug Patrol: </b>Slugs and snails are especially active this month. Be on the look out morning and evening. \n\n<p>If you started seeds, much of your time this month is probably going to be spent hardening off plants and transplanting out. \n<center><p>\nPlease keep in mind, this garden guide is for the Cascadian Maritime Climate (West of the Cascades in the Pac NW, US). \n<h4><i>If you found this guide helpful, please upvote and resteem. I'm a minnow and dearly love the support!</i></h4></center>",
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      "body": "Hello @teryani,\n\nJust wanted to say hi and let you know that your wonderful post have been picked up for the weekly Sustainability Curation Digest in association with Minnow Support Project.\n\nYour post will be upvoted by @msp-curation bot on behalf of MSP.\n\nThanks for writing awesome content and if you have some time, make sure to check out some of the other posts from this week.\n\n[Sustainability Curation Digest #2 🌄🌍🌝 by Carpedimus - MSP](https://steemit.com/minnowsupport/@carpedimus/sustainability-curation-digest-2-by-carpedimus-msp)\n\nKeep up with the great work :) and thanks for sharing!",
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      "body": "<p>If you’ve only eaten potatoes from the market, you’re missing out on a lot of fresh flavor. Home-grown potatoes are incredibly tasty, easy to grow, and honestly, there’s nothing quite like the feeling of digging up a hill of potatoes and finding all those sweet tubers just waiting to be eaten. You don’t need to even have a garden to grow them—they grow well in containers as well. 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In fact, if you’re not too particularly worried about the looks and getting a huge yield, you can grow them just about anywhere in Cascadia. Still, they do best in sandy or loamy soil.\n<p>\nIn Cascadia we tend towards more acidic soils and potatoes prefer a pH between 5.2-5.8, which means some soil amending might be in order. If you know your soil is below 5.2 and you’re planting this year, choose dolomite limestone over straight agricultural lime. Agricultural lime in the wrong proportions can cause scabbing. (If you’re preparing a bed for next year, agricultural lime will work fine.) It’s best to lime your soil well before planting (months, if possible). Of course, that doesn’t do much good now at planting time, but for future reference consider amending in the fall. Also, it’s well worth it to test your soil—pH tests are quite cheap and easy to do.\n<p>\nIf you’re trying to plant out now (late March) the soil might still be too water-logged, so it might be best to chit your potatoes until the soil dries out a bit more. (Ours is heavy clay, so as much as I’ve been chomping at the bit, I’m holding off a bit longer.) For more information on chitting, go \n<a href=\"https://steemit.com/livesustainably/@teryani/get-your-potatoes-off-to-a-great-start-by-chitting\">here.</a>\n\n<p>\nThere are many ways of planting potatoes—hilling, planting them in a pit, etc. If you’re doing it pit- or trench-style, work the soil to a depth of 6-8 inches. If you’re using containers or bags they’ll need to be able to hold at least 2 gallons. (We use 5 gallon pots.) Fill them about 1/3 full with good compost. Place a single, ideally chitted tuber into the compost about 5 inches deep with the shoots pointing upwards, then and add another 4-6 inches of soil on top. Place in a sunny location and water regularly to keep compost moist. \n![potato-varities.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmYEdjesdqr393fvdBrfK8PYGqSvXph5j2JccBuvD9ALKB/potato-varities.jpg)\n<i>Here we have three different varieties. The red on the left is an early potato. The yellow finn in the middle is a mid-season potato, and the russet on the right is a late season potato. </i>\n<h3>Cutting</h3>\n<p>Larger potatoes will need to be cut into pieces. The ideal piece will have as few cut sides as possible, and will be about the same size and weight as a golf ball. They will also have to have at least 3 eyes apiece. There seem to be two theories of thought on cut potatoes. One says to plant them right away. The other says to let the cuts heal for a couple of days before planting and then dust them with a bit of agricultural sulfur. Both ways have worked fine for me, though I tend to just cut them and plant them.\n<p>\nIf you’re planting into a garden, sow the seed potatoes into trenches 4-8” deep, 15\" apart, and with 2 feet between rows. Keep the soil from the trench nearby, as you’ll need it later. You can work compost and/or organic fertilizer into the bottom of the trenches if you like. We use Steve Solomon’s recipe, though we swap out the lime for oyster shell in potato trenches. \n\n![potatos.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmX2x5N2UEM39WAs71vkbo8C46jF42n2htUFBBp7rZidg1/potatos.jpg)\n<i>Hilling potatoes with straw.</i>\n<p>\nI don’t recommend polyculturing with potatoes, as they’ll need to be dug up while your other plants are growing and the digging up process can disturb the roots of the other plants rather significantly. \n<p>\nOnce you have your trench prepared, sow the potato seeds and cover them with an inch or two of soil. Water well. If you’re planting now, the leaves should start showing by mid-April. Once they get a foot tall add in the soil you set aside while digging your trench, covering the stalk until just 2-3 inches stick up. (Some people prefer to use straw or sawdust, but I always get better results from soil.) Repeat this process at least one more time. Once that’s done, you’ll have a nice hill of potatoes.\n<h3>Companion Planting</h3>\n<p>While I don’t recommend planting other non-root crops in the same bed, you can plant beneficial plants next to your potato bed. Potatoes do well planted next to beans, cabbage, corn, horseradish, eggplant and marigold. (The last two help lure away pests.) They’re not particularly fond of tomatoes, pumpkins, or cucumbers.\n\n<p>And that’s it for planting. I’ll have more on plant maintenance and harvesting later.\n<p>\n<center>\n<i>If you found this post useful in any way, please upvote and resteeem!</i>\n<p> All photos are by yours truly unless otherwise specified.</center>",
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      "title": "A Guide to Getting Those Potatoes in the Ground!",
      "body": "<p>If you’ve only eaten potatoes from the market, you’re missing out on a lot of fresh flavor. Home-grown potatoes are incredibly tasty, easy to grow, and honestly, there’s nothing quite like the feeling of digging up a hill of potatoes and finding all those sweet tubers just waiting to be eaten. You don’t need to even have a garden to grow them—they grow well in containers as well. All you need is sun and a bit of know-how.\n\n![yellow-finn.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmTW7Ntaur4NRkqxhuaeNGjXW7aT6p9wHXMAG3RuFbQs71/yellow-finn.jpg)\n<p>So without further ado, here’s a guide to growing your own tasty tubers.\n<h2>How to Plant Potatoes</h2>\n<p>If you live in the Pacific Northwest (Cascadia), now is technically the time to get them in the ground if you’re planting outside. \n<p><b>When to Sow:</b> March-May; August for second cropping\n<br>\n<b>Harvest: </b>August-September; late December \n<p>Germination: 7-14 days\n<br>Full Sun\n<h3>Preparing the Beds</h3>\n<p>Choose a sunny location where nightshades (tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, etc.) haven’t been grown in the last two years. Prepare the soil with plenty of well-rotted manure and/or other organic material. \nPotatoes flourish in fertile, well-drained soil, but can do well in many other soil types. In fact, if you’re not too particularly worried about the looks and getting a huge yield, you can grow them just about anywhere in Cascadia. Still, they do best in sandy or loamy soil.\n<p>\nIn Cascadia we tend towards more acidic soils and potatoes prefer a pH between 5.2-5.8, which means some soil amending might be in order. If you know your soil is below 5.2 and you’re planting this year, choose dolomite limestone over straight agricultural lime. Agricultural lime in the wrong proportions can cause scabbing. (If you’re preparing a bed for next year, agricultural lime will work fine.) It’s best to lime your soil well before planting (months, if possible). Of course, that doesn’t do much good now at planting time, but for future reference consider amending in the fall. Also, it’s well worth it to test your soil—pH tests are quite cheap and easy to do.\n<p>\nIf you’re trying to plant out now (late March) the soil might still be too water-logged, so it might be best to chit your potatoes until the soil dries out a bit more. (Ours is heavy clay, so as much as I’ve been chomping at the bit, I’m holding off a bit longer.) For more information on chitting, go \n<a href=\"https://steemit.com/livesustainably/@teryani/get-your-potatoes-off-to-a-great-start-by-chitting\">here.</a>\n\n<p>\nThere are many ways of planting potatoes—hilling, planting them in a pit, etc. If you’re doing it pit- or trench-style, work the soil to a depth of 6-8 inches. If you’re using containers or bags they’ll need to be able to hold at least 2 gallons. (We use 5 gallon pots.) Fill them about 1/3 full with good compost. Place a single, ideally chitted tuber into the compost about 5 inches deep with the shoots pointing upwards, then and add another 4-6 inches of soil on top. Place in a sunny location and water regularly to keep compost moist. \n![potato-varities.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmYEdjesdqr393fvdBrfK8PYGqSvXph5j2JccBuvD9ALKB/potato-varities.jpg)\n<i>Here we have three different varieties. The red on the left is an early potato. The yellow finn in the middle is a mid-season potato, and the russet on the right is a late season potato. </i>\n<h3>Cutting</h3>\n<p>Larger potatoes will need to be cut into pieces. The ideal piece will have as few cut sides as possible, and will be about the same size and weight as a golf ball. They will also have to have at least 3 eyes apiece. There seem to be two theories of thought on cut potatoes. One says to plant them right away. The other says to let the cuts heal for a couple of days before planting and then dust them with a bit of agricultural sulfur. Both ways have worked fine for me, though I tend to just cut them and plant them.\n<p>\nIf you’re planting into a garden, sow the seed potatoes into trenches 4-8” deep, 15\" apart, and with 2 feet between rows. Keep the soil from the trench nearby, as you’ll need it later. You can work compost and/or organic fertilizer into the bottom of the trenches if you like. We use Steve Solomon’s recipe, though we swap out the lime for oyster shell in potato trenches. \n\n![potatos.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmX2x5N2UEM39WAs71vkbo8C46jF42n2htUFBBp7rZidg1/potatos.jpg)\n<i>Hilling potatoes with straw.</i>\n<p>\nI don’t recommend polyculturing with potatoes, as they’ll need to be dug up while your other plants are growing and the digging up process can disturb the roots of the other plants rather significantly. \n<p>\nOnce you have your trench prepared, sow the potato seeds and cover them with an inch or two of soil. Water well. 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      "author": "teryani",
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      "body": "Naw...this is Cascadia....on the Olympic Peninsula. No alligators. The area is quite lush wetlands though. That pond was one of the few things the owners of the property did that I thought was really an asset.",
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      "body": "The last picture looks like a fairy! Love that! \nStupid question, but are they some alligator out there? 😅\n\n---\nJoin me on [Gaïa 🌍 Let's make our planet a better place to live](https://discord.gg/4wgsv6u) \n",
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      "body": "You are most welcome! You did great job!\n\nYeah I wasnt sure I will be able to make it, but luckily we got ourselves a very chilled babes, that gives us the chance to keep pursuing our commitments :)\n\nThanks for the congrats! It is awesome to be a father :)",
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      "body": "Great first curation post and congrats on your daughter being born. I'm amazed you got to this so soon! And thanks muchly for choosing my transplant post. It made my day.",
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      "body": "Great tips and reminders.  I have learned the hard way by giving too much sun exposure too quickly for garden veggies or taking house plants outside for summer.  You have to harden them off.  Great post!",
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      "body": "My experience with potatoes has been tha those long white stringy sprouts just don't do very well in the garden when you plant them that way.  The short stubby sprouts that you talk about in this post seem to do way better because they haven't already used up a lot of their sugars like the long spindly sprouted potatoes did.",
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