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      "author": "steem.history",
      "body": "Hello welcome to Steemit world! \n I'm @steem.history, who is steem witness. \n This is a recommended post for you.[Newcomers Guide](https://steemitdev.com/guide/@steemitblog/steemit-a-guide-for-newcomers) and [The Complete Steemit Etiquette Guide (Revision 2.0)](https://steemit.com/steem/@steem.history/the-complete-steemit-etiquette-guide-revision-20-homage-1598425779) and, recommended community [Newcomers Community](https://steemit.com/trending/hive-172186) \n I wish you luck to your steemit activities.<center> \n \n \n https://cdn.steemitimages.com/DQmXHwdcNs5VPcBft1iSosPdHLpBNBfjuG84g3ffWhMw5JQ/image.png \n <sub>(The bots avatar has been created using https://robohash.org/)</sub> \n @steem.history \n \n ### My witness activity \n - [My aspiration for STEEM witness](https://steemit.com/hive-185836/@steem.history/my-aspiration-for-steem-witness-1601280729) \n - Provides information on Steem.  \n [Reference](https://steemit.com/trending/hive-130095) \n - Supporting the Steem project. \n [SPUD4STEEM project](https://steemit.com/trending/spud4steem) \n - Supporting the community. \n [Newcomers Community](https://steemit.com/trending/hive-172186),[Steem Sri Lanka](https://steemit.com/trending/hive-133716) ,[WORLD OF XPILAR](https://steemit.com/trending/hive-185836), [GLOBAL STEEM](https://steemit.com/trending/hive-145160), [Scouts](https://steemit.com/trending/hive-181136), [Latino Community](https://steemit.com/trending/hive-188619) \n \n ### My featured posts \n - [The Complete Steemit Etiquette Guide (Revision 2.0) -Homage](https://steemit.com/steem/@steem.history/the-complete-steemit-etiquette-guide-revision-20-homage-1598425779) \n \n [![image.png](https://cdn.steemitimages.com/DQmd7of2TpLGqvckkrReWahnkxMWH6eMg5upXesfsujDCnW/image.png)](https://steemlogin.com/sign/account-witness-vote?witness=steem.history&amp;approve=1) \n <sub>please click it!</sub> \n \n ![image.png](https://cdn.steemitimages.com/DQmWDnFh7Kcgj2gdPc5RgG9Cezc4Bapq8sQQJvrkxR8rx5z/image.png) \n <sub>(Go to https://steemit.com/~witnesses and type fbslo at the bottom of the page)</sub> \n \n </center>",
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      "body": "私なりにサーフィンの虜になる人々が、何に魅了されどんな恩恵を受けているのか考察してみた。\nこの内容を受け、サーフィンに挑戦してみたい、海を大切にしなければいけないと感じる人が増えることを願います。\n\n\n![OIP.jpg](https://cdn.steemitimages.com/DQmeytkRW6iVJZFRvvNQts1HcsfVnmhEcoW8gyrxyWMsqn7/OIP.jpg)\n\n\n①波と一体となり、海面を駆け抜ける爽快感\n波乗りは、アスファルトの上を走るスケートボードや雪山で行うスノーボードと似て横乗りのスポーツだが、似て非なるもの。\n感覚も大きく違い、現実にあるものでライディングの感覚をたとえることは難しい。\n空想上のものでしいて言うならば、アラジンの魔法の絨毯や西遊記の孫悟空が乗る筋斗雲のようなものだと考える。\n液体の上を滑走する感覚は、大きな喜びを伴う。\n脳内のドーパミンなどの快楽系物質がばしゃばしゃと溢れ出す。\n\n\n②心身の健康\n燦燦と降り注ぐ太陽の下、マイナスイオンを大量に含んだ水しぶきに当たりながらの運動。\nそれは健康的な身体作りに大きく寄与する。\n一面に広がる海の中、沖を見つめた先には空と海の境界線を、良い波がやってくるのを待ちながら見つめる時間。\nサーフボード上にまたがり、うねりに揺られながらバランスをとる。\n一点集中し、余計な思考を除去することで日ごろのストレスや邪念邪気を取り払う。\nこれが習慣化されると、身体も心も信じられないほど美しくしなやか、そして強靭なものとなる。\n\n\n③学び\nサーフィンの上達に必要な要素を習得すると、日常生活でも応用が利かせられるように。\n\n・波のリズムを無視し、自分本位でライディングすると波と呼吸が合わず、海中に落とされる。その波をよく観察し読み、自分が波に合わせてあげることが大切。\n\n・正しい姿勢、無駄な動きを減らすことで速いパドリング（サーフボードに横たわり、両手で水をかき分け前進すること、）スムーズなテイクオフ（うねりのパワーで前進すること）を実現できる。\n\n・ベストコンディションの良い波がわんさかやってくることもあれば、いまいちな波ばかりやってくることもある。それでも海から上がった際、楽しみや喜びを見出し、海に感謝することが良い締めに。\n私がどんな形で私生活でこれらを活かしているか、ぜひ想像してほしい。\n\n\n\n上記はあくまで私の主観ではあるので一概に全員に適応する内容ではないことを了承いただき、\n興味を持った方にはぜひ一度サーフィンにトライしてみてください。\n\n次はあなたの言葉で、サーフィンの魅力を教えてね。\n\n\n\n＜In English＞\nIn my own way, I have examined what attracts and benefits people who are captivated by surfing.\nI hope that the content of this article will encourage more people to try surfing and feel the need to take care of the ocean.\n\n\n\n(1) The exhilarating feeling of becoming one with the waves and running across the surface of the ocean\nSurfing is a side-riding sport similar to skateboarding on asphalt or snowboarding on a snowy mountain, but they are very different.\nThe sensations are very different, and it is difficult to compare the feeling of riding with something that exists in reality.\nIf we were to use an imaginary object, it would be something like Aladdin's magic carpet or Sun Wukong's flying cloud in the Journey to the West.\nThe sensation of gliding on a liquid is accompanied by great pleasure.\nDopamine and other pleasure substances in the brain flood out.\n\n\n(2) Physical and mental health\nExercise under the brilliant sun while being splashed by water containing a large amount of negative ions.\nIt contributes greatly to building a healthy body.\nTime to gaze at the boundary line between the sky and the ocean as you wait for good waves to come in.\nStraddling the surfboard and balancing on it while being rocked by the swell.\nBy concentrating on one point and removing unnecessary thoughts, we get rid of daily stress and evil thoughts.\nOnce this becomes a habit, the body and mind become incredibly beautiful, supple, and strong.\n\n\n(3) Learning\nOnce you have mastered the elements necessary to improve your surfing, you will be able to apply them to your daily life.\n\nIf you ignore the rhythm of the wave and ride according to your own preferences, you will not be able to breathe with the wave and you will be dropped into the water. It is important to observe and read the wave carefully, and to adjust yourself to the wave.\n\nPaddling fast (lying on the surfboard and wading through the water with both hands to move forward) and taking off smoothly (moving forward with the power of the swell) can be achieved by having the correct posture and reducing unnecessary movement.\n\nSometimes the best waves come in a flurry of good conditions, and other times they are just not so good. Still, when we get out of the water, we should find enjoyment and joy and be thankful to the ocean for a good tightening.\nPlease imagine how I make use of these things in my personal life.\n\n\n\nPlease note that the above is my own subjective viewpoint, so it may not be applicable to everyone.\nIf you are interested, I encourage you to give surfing a try.\n\nTell me what you think of surfing.",
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