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      "permlink": "here-is-a-guide-to-repairing-and-cleaning-manual-focus-lenses",
      "title": "Here is a guide to repairing and cleaning manual focus lenses!!",
      "body": "Hello everyone,\n\nI’ve been ask a few times to create a post about repairing and cleaning manual focus lenses. I have totally disassembled, cleaned and repaired well over 100 lenses so I have a fair understanding on the procedure and therefore, hopefully save you the troubles I’ve encountered and the mistakes I’ve made when I started. In doing this, you can choose whether you’d like to keep the lens or sell it for a profit later on. This is up to you :)\n\nSince there are so many different types of lens constructions, I’m going to explain what is necessary and some tips and tricks along the way.\n\nDisclaimer - Please note these are just guidelines based on my experiences and only proceed if you’re sure you can do this type of precise work. In other words, proceed at your own risk.\n\nOk, now that’s out of the way, these techniques are not for the faint of heart but if you are willing to spend some time and effort, you will be greatly rewarded.\n\n![FullSizeRender 4 copy.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmcmi5ZjJuAbdzxLysX5cikCHuhtWhox9syaP9Vv9ekApR/FullSizeRender%204%20copy.jpg)\n\nHere is the list of things you will need:\n\n1. 1-2 sheets of white paper (A4)\n\n2. Gloves (preferably nitrile gloves without powder on the inside)\n\n3. Rubbing Alcohol (Isopropyl 99%)\n\n4. Distilled Water\n\n5. Hydrogen Peroxide (6% is the one I have)\n\n6. 4 little containers or 2 containers and 2 small stray bottles\n\n7. Cotton Buds (I like the ones with one flat side, cosmetic I believe they are called)\n\n8. Phone or camera (to take photos along the way, just incase) :)\n\n9. Desk lamp\n\n10. Brush\n\n11. I’m not sure what this one is called but it looks like a rubber cone (vacuum pad for removing lens plates)\n\n12. Rocket Blower\n\n13. Precision screwdrivers (I’ve gone through a few of these so choose wisely)\n\n14. UV Flashlight\n\n15. Lint free cloth (I use the cloth that came with my macbook) :)\n\n16. Tweezers\n\n17. Time (for the first time, give yourself approx 4 hours)\n\n18. Patience\n\n19. Last but not less, a lens :) You can get an good old lens that needs a cleaning or simple repair for £15. I would also recommend getting a prime lens and not a zoom.\n\n![_RLC5981-Edit.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmbMe6SZWBPjXQ8q36B69fBQhZRJwt3jfQrYa4NmJChEg7/_RLC5981-Edit.jpg) The only thing missing from this photo is the phone, hydrogen peroxide, gloves and a lens.\n\n\nOk, that sounds like a long list but it’s not really, if you get all of the things above, you won’t be like me at the beginning when I realised I needed something else halfway through disassembly :( I then had to order the item and wait for it to arrive a few days later! Very frustrating.\n\nEverything on the list should cost less than £100 (lens included) and this will last many many disassemblies!\n\n:)\n\n\nNow here is a simple guide of the process:\n\nYou can start from anywhere but let’s start with the rear element (take photos before starting and along the way)\n\nRemove all screws\n\nRemove the rear element block (most lenses have a rear element block which comprises of a group of elements) This block can be disassemble into separate elements\n\n![IMG_2136.JPG](https://steemitimages.com/DQmf81iuw1cbhCNvhn65URSj98ECSYVVAvXSmNYsALs8Svs/IMG_2136.JPG) These elements have fungus\n\nDisassemble elements, clean each element on both sides with cotton buds in circular motions and distilled water a few times. Remember the order in which they were assembled.\n\nClean the rear block carefully with rubbing alcohol and make sure not to touch any elements (glass) with the rubbing alcohol.\n\nReassemble and place somewhere safe. Remember to use the rocket blower constantly while reassembling the elements to get rid of all loose dust particles.\n\n![IMG_2139.JPG](https://steemitimages.com/DQmaifBeDWkxcGzB7LdKDnmG8h2dcypspXkP6vpbAse2x6T/IMG_2139.JPG) Here is the same element block cleaned and reassembled\n\nTime to remove the front elements. The face plate may need to be removed via the vacuum thing or via a tiny screw at the side or inside. Sometimes both! Please look carefully as these screws are tiny. You may need to unscrew the top of the lens fully or sometimes you’ll just need the lens spanner to get the elements out. Again, each lens is different so take photos along the way. Clean elements and reassemble while using the blower periodically. Place this front elements block somewhere safe.\n\n![IMG_5729.JPG](https://steemitimages.com/DQmQ9NnextbjLa7UDMxb5bsKekJpskkaXviKxUVDgbh3Taa/IMG_5729.JPG) Here is one of the front elements already cleaned\n\nRemove all that you feel comfortable to remove. You can also venture into the aperture block but this is very scary and can cause nightmares (believe me)\n\n![IMG_4469.JPG](https://steemitimages.com/DQmbzY9nzzpbVx2i3JMynfukdBRPiNaGq2brCr1JbZMb9gk/IMG_4469.JPG) Nightmares!!!\n\nIf you do get into the aperture block, remove the aperture blades and clean carefully with rubbing alcohol.\n\nReassemble aperture block and then put somewhere safe.\n\nClean the lens barrel with the lint free cloth and rubbing alcohol.\n\nUse the blower and then add back the aperture block, rear element block and front element block.\n\nPlace lens caps on and re-wipe the lens barrel one last time.\n\nYou are finished :)\n\n![RLC_8626.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmaryoiYTC9fqqenwYipfqquYxC9G4VLPnETYEQwi6HvTf/RLC_8626.jpg) Testing out cleaned lens on a Nikon FM2\n\nTips and Tricks\n\nIf the aperture blades are stuck and you don’t want to remove the aperture block, remove all elements and use a blowdryer to heat the oil on the blades. They should start moving at the right temperature. You can also flick the aperture lever.\n\nUse the light and look at the elements at difference angles to see if there is any residue left on the lens after cleaning or dust particles.\n\nUse the UV flashlight on elements that had fungus on it as UV light kills fungus.\n\nTake a lot of photos along the way, I cannot stress this more.\n\nSometimes using the lens spanner doesn't work because the 'ring' is stuck. Carefully place a precision screwdriver on a notch and tap it a bit in the opening direction then, tap the second notch the same way.\n\nDo not remove the helicoid!!!! This is a real pain to get back in the right place. You would almost have to reassemble the entire lens only to realise you need to take the whole thing apart again!\n\n![IMG_4483.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmT2HLC8Tc4Nc7pYh7rmKJ7Lv9GKSYXpUjw9TWM3HyWEdo/IMG_4483.jpg) What a mess!\n\nWhen cleaning and reassembling the elements, I like taking off my gloves to do this.\n\nIf for some reason there seems to be oil on some of the elements, then you need to use the rubbing alcohol to get the oil off, then use distilled water to get back the glass clean and streak free.\n\nIf the glass has horrible fungus, then use hydrogen peroxide.\n\n![IMG_4808.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmb96xTtxvRyxXz5swej4RoZaTB9JuhGvtiwFMTCc9M2dE/IMG_4808.jpg) Fungus!!!\n\nBe careful will certain old types of lenses, they can be radioactive! E.g. some Takumar lenses, some Mamiya lenses, some Yashica lenses. There are just a few of them and are fine to clean, just don’t drop the glass!\n\nOk, I hope this long article brought some insight into pursuing your hobby and even though it is long, it should have enough information to help in understanding what’s necessary to start this new adventure.\n\nHave a good time experimenting and if you get really good at this, you will acquire some really great lenses for next to nothing!\n\n![FullSizeRender 5.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmdA6RBYhKiH9V74HxR2Msms6nFkKp24TovUAA9yd4Gedc/FullSizeRender%205.jpg)\n\nThank you for reading! :)",
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      "title": "Tips and Tricks for the Fuji X-T2 and also should you upgrade from the X-T1?",
      "body": "This post is about a few things I’ve noticed while upgrading from the X-T1 to the X-T2 plus a few tips and tricks I've found useful. These findings are purely based on my experience and would like to know if you’ve noticed the same or uncovered any other tips or secrets :)\n\n![_RLC5615.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmRNfYT43Ln4KsooLKMNiUEeHYPHL7hAy2CAUdisXdnh1e/_RLC5615.jpg) FujiFilm X-T2\n\nAt first, after shooting with the X-T1 for about a year, I was quite undecided whether I should upgrade to the X-T2. My X-T1 was an already an excellent camera which never gave me any issues! I even chose to use this over my D750 and D810 Nikons for casual shooting as it was a lot more fun plus I could use almost any lens from any time period or manufacturer (with the correct adapter) and still have infinity focus. \n\nI, of course, was quite curious to see how much better the X-T2 was so, I did keep my eye out for good deals on the X-T2! Amazingly, the wait was over! The best deal of all time (for me) came up and I didn’t think twice! \n\nNow, it was time to really see what all the talk was about!\n\nBy the way, I use these cameras without the battery grip as I don’t need it (at the moment) and prefer the portability over enhanced frame rate and video abilities.\n\nSo, to keep this article fairly short (really, it was supposed to be!), I’ve compiled a list of things I believe will be useful to know if you're deciding on upgrading.\n\nHere are some simple points about the X-T2 I hope will help you decide on upgrading if you were thinking about it. Again, these are directly compared to the X-T1 and only my experience:\n\n![_RLC5581.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmejtKb4UmcMjvJ1dWaQigqUcJRT2Kg6qSWNuVxeJWTEoF/_RLC5581.jpg) Here's a comparison of the Fuji X-T1 and X-T2 side by side.\n\n\n![_RLC5582.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmduwzKDBUhYEQvr1HCtpN8u4Vt2cpeLMnQH85oGrPgKk1/_RLC5582.jpg) Here is the back view with the X-T1 on the left and the X-T2 on the right\n\n![_RLC5583.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmYurnEQa7GERYNkF2gAQV5KUdep8FnCKjcay2wJdAq9cA/_RLC5583.jpg) Here is the top view with the X-T1 on the left and the X-T2 on the right\n\nSome Points:\n\nIs the X-T2 better? Yes, in just about every way. It’s not like it’s a different camera but it has boosted capabilities and added more functionality plus increased its resolution and bettered its image quality. It also has dual card slots and a more advanced articulated LCD screen. I also like the ‘C’ on the exposure compensation dial.\n\nIs the image quality noticeably better? Yes, I must say I didn’t see the big difference immediately but when I took a few shots with the X-T2 and when I went back to the X-T1, there was a huge difference.\n\nIs it a necessary upgrade? No, the X-T1 is an incredible camera, it’s fun and 16mb is more than enough for most people. The camera can be used for professional jobs. I’ve also done some studio shots with this and was amazed at the clarity and resolution I got (by the way, I process my ‘raf’ files with Adobe Lightroom and Iridient)\n\nIs it easier to use? Yes. The added joystick and the added ‘C’ on the exposure compensation dial makes a great difference in the speed of working the camera, therefore, you capture images faster and easier. Less missed opportunities!\n\nDoes it feel faster? Yes, it just feels faster. Ok so that’s not scientific but from an experiential point of view, the working of this camera feels more responsive and I’m getting shots I haven’t gotten before with my X-T1.\n\nIs the ISO quality better? Yes, again there’s probably more than a 1 stop advantage but again, unscientifically, from my eyes, ISO 6,400 is quite useable and ISO 12,800 is ‘decent’ depending on what you're shooting. I’ve even used ISO 25,600 and it wasn’t that bad at all. ISO 51,200 is pretty bad :) but at least it’s there if needed! I was afraid to use ISO 6,400 on my X-T1. By the way, you will need to set either ISO 25,600 or ISO 51,200 to be ‘H’ on the ‘Sensitivity’ dial.\n\nIs the X-T1 obsolete? No, not at all. I’ll easily take this as a backup camera or in conjunction with my X-T2.\n\nDoes it feel bigger? Yes, it does even though it’s not by much but I feel it.\n\nDoes it feel heavier? Yes, it is noticeable.\n\nIs focus acquisition faster? Yes, greatly improved in my opinion. You feel the difference in speed immediately when you change cameras.\n\nIs it easier to use manual focus lenses? Not sure. I don’t use the focus assist modes much, that is, digital split screen and focus peaking highlights. I just magnify the live image in standard mode and determine focus with my eyes.\n\nDoes the new joystick help? Yes, oh yes!! :) The joystick allows you to shift the focal points so easily, you never have to move your eye from the EVF.\n\nIs battery life the same? No, not really :( Again, no scientific testing here, I just feel myself reaching for another battery much sooner than when I used the X-T1. I would easily have gone out shooting for a couple of hours on one battery but with the X-T2 on ‘boost performance mode’ I will definitely be on a second battery before returning home.\n\nHere are some of the things I noticed immediately:\n\nTemperature - As soon as I had the X-T2 in my hand, I went through the menu to change all the settings similar to what I had on my X-T1 but when I was finished, I found the camera noticeably warm. I thought it was overheating but after this, I didn't notice anything out of the ordinary with respect to heat just a bit warm. The X-T1 never changed temperature during shooting but the X-T2 does a bit and more so if you’re in the menu for a long time.\n\nEVF and LCD - For some reason, I thought something was off with my X-T2 as it seemed a bit off tint (slightly purplish/bluish) when I looked through the EVF or LCD. I thought something was wrong with it but after adjusting the EVF and LCD brightness and colour, it seems perfect now. Maybe my eyes just readjusted to the EVF of the X-T2 but just wanted to point this out.\n\nFirmware - Please make sure and upgrade the firmware, Fuji is well known for having excellent upgrades. I didn’t use the camera enough on the original firmware to know the difference when I upgraded to the current fireware.\n\nAcros - I didn’t know what all the fuss was about but actually, Acros does look pretty good! I shoot in Raw + Jpeg but actually am considering jpeg for some shots just because they look so great!\n\nDual card slot - Aaaaahhhh, finally! I’m really pleased to have this feature as I had it on my Nikon D810 and Nikon D750 but was missing it on my X-T1. I feel completed now :) I like using it on sequential or backup.\n\nAgain, these are just the things that I noticed personally. There are many more tips or settings out there for different types of shooters. \n\nTips and tricks you may not know:\n\n![_RLC5619.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmWu57irdX9CWzk5tPYSr36QxgnnczDkYD7npBz7LBaXRu/_RLC5619.jpg)\n\nFormat SD Cards quickly - Press the Delete Button for 3 seconds then press the Rear Command Dial to get a quick option to format either of the SD Cards.\n\nFN Buttons - Press the DISP/BACK button until the option to change Fn buttons come up, take your time and set these up. These really help with speed.\n\nExposure Compensation - The Exposure Compensation Dial was very useful on the X-T1 but the X-T2 has an option on the same dial called ‘C’ Use this then press the Front Command Dial to see an option between aperture and exposure compensation. Choose the exposure compensation and now, instead of turning the Exposure Compensation Dial, you just have to roll the Front Command Dial to set the exposure compensation :) Of course this depends on your style of shooting plus lens but this was a big plus for me.\n\nDual mode - To use Dual screen mode you need to be on ‘M’ mode on the Focus Mode Selector, then press the DISP/BACK until you see the Dual screen mode. If you do this on the EVF and want it on the LCD, you just need to do it there as well.\n\n‘H’ ISO - When you set the ‘H’ to ISO 25,600 or ISO 51,200, you need to be in Mechanical Shutter for it to work. In other words, if you’re using Electronic Shutter, you would only get the native ISO 12,800.\n\n![_RLC5617-Edit.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmfKzTnDB7e4KEw3CZkixRCNN6bj2Enjc8XZnEnCmwWsJ8/_RLC5617-Edit.jpg)\n\nStealth mode - If you are shooting on the street, at a wedding or in a library etc, you can use Electronic Shutter and the camera will be silent, just be careful about what you're shooting because when you're panning a fast moving object or there’s a lot of movement, the images tend to look bent or what they refer to in videography as ‘Rolling Shutter’ effect. I set my ‘Fn2’ button to shifting between, only Mechanical, Mechanical and Electronic or only Electronic shutter! By the way, you will need to go into setting to change the sound setup of the shutter to AF Beep and Shutter Volume to ‘OFF’\n\nLens Modulation Optimizer - Keep this on!\n\nJoystick - This is great! Just move the joystick to any point on the screen to focus there without taking your eye off of the EVF and if you want it to come back to the middle at anytime, just click on the joystick twice and it will be centred.\n\nStudio Shoots - This one is a neat trick, if you plan on shooting with flash in studio, you’ll realise if you, for e.g. set you shutter speed to 1/200, f10 and ISO 200, you’ll realise the LCD and EVF will be totally black, thankfully, all you need to do is going into the settings and look for Screen Set-Up, Preview EXP./WB in manual mode and switch this to OFF! That simple :)\n\nElectronic shutter for bight situations - With my Nikons and other camera that have a max shutter speed of 1/4000 or 1/8000 you will need an ND filter to shoot with an an aperture of f2, f1.8, f1.4 etc. With the Electronic shutter option you wont need an extra piece of glass in front of your lens because it can go all the way to 1/32000\n\nIS mode - Keep this on the second option ‘Shooting Only’ and by the way, you’ll only see this in action while in continuous focusing mode, i.e. when you set the Focus Mode Selector on C. At least this is what I’ve noticed! The first option drains the battery too much and isn’t necessary.\n\nOk, I’ve only had this camera less than 2 weeks but was just excited to share my findings :)\n\nBy the way, here is a very important point! I have many lenses I’ve collected over the years, that being mostly Nikon and M42 lenses with only one Fuji lens. \n\n![_RLC5624.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmaudpNhUTd2mwZSKZrznkMHivBZkJCdhnY39i9uEFX8o1/_RLC5624.jpg) The Fuji XF 18-55mm f/2.8-4 lens\n\nI never felt the need to acquire more fuji lenses but after getting the X-T2, I’ve decided to sell some of my lenses to get a Fuji 90mm f2 and also the 56 1.2. I now feel confident to use Fuji for professional work and at the same time still have fun! This in itself says a lot.\n\nThank you for reading my article and please feel happy to leave some of your findings as well.\n\nThank you!",
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