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      "body": "WEI HONG CHUANG Electronics Co., Ltd. (SOPSMT), which specializes in <a href=\"https://smtsop.com/\">SMT machines</a> and spare parts. SOPSMT has more than 10 years of experience in the electronics processing equipment industry. Customers all over the world, and win the trust and praise of customers. Long-term customers include BOSCH and FLEX in Spain and India, , Panasonic in Mexico, Samsung and Cliptechin Brazil.",
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      "body": "Fog lights are one of the most important accessories in a vehicle. It allows the driver to see amid bad weather conditions.\n\nNavigate to this website:https://www.suncentauto.com/sealight-x1-9006hb4-white-low-beam-led-headlight-bulbs-2pcs.html",
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      "body": "Assuming that you are searching for a spot to purchase car parts, there are a wide range of online stores that you can utilize. And you can [use this link](https://www.suncentauto.com/car-truck-floor-mats.html) to find a wide range of parts at reasonable costs, and they can be found on the Internet without any problem. You might need to take a gander at a portion of these destinations to figure out which one is best for your requirements.",
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      "author": "peterschroeter",
      "body": "https://i.imgur.com/uWlVr3E.jpg\n\nWelcome back to this blog fellow Steemians. This is to document my journey with a 2005 Mercedes E55 AMG Wagon from purchase to initial inspection and maintenance right through today.\n\nIn case you missed part 1 you can find it here:\n\nhttps://steemit.com/cars/@peterschroeter/diy-buying-a-15-year-old-super-wagon-2005-e55-amg-m113k-or-purchase-inspection-and-plans-pt-1\n\nWe left off the moment I parked the car after picking it up. There were no hiccups during the almost 1.000km drive home and the car performed flawlessly as far as getting from A to B goes.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/EmbjllZ.jpg\n\n## ToDo List\n\\\nSince I bought this car as a project and it is a 15 year old German high performance wagon the list of things to do is naturally quite long. Initially I knew about and/or noticed the following items:\n\n- Keyless Go system was inoperable so the door handles didn't work remotely and the start/stop button on top of the shifter also didn't work\n\n- Dynamic Seat cushions did not actuate, the seats are adjustable and heating and ventilation work but the inflatable air cushions did not move an inch\n\n- Distronic cruise control threw an error code and was inoperable, this is a radar controlled automatic cruise control and in and of itself I could live without it BUT if the car detects Distronic inactive it also disables the cruise control altogether\n\n- The check engine light was on, according to the previous owner due to a secondary air pump failure\n\n- Engine oil smell in the cabin when idling and driving hard, this usually results from leaking valve cover gaskets, one of the few areas of attention this engine actually needs as it is generally regarded (and I can confirm that) as super reliable\n\n- The power steering pump made a horrible noise and steering was quite heavy, there was ATF fluid (red) instead of Pentosin CHF 11S (green) in the system and the pump was shot\n\n- The tires were compeltely shot\n\n- The car was missing all (ALL!) of the engine and transmission protective underside covers and both front wheel well liners were broken\n\n- The side markers/blinkers on the mirrors were cracked but functional\n\n- The headlights were dull and the left one had a red shine\n\n- There was a vibration under certain braking conditions in the front and rear axle\n\n- The car had smoked tail lights and grill and a bunch of stickers applied\n\n- The front engine cover was missing the Mercedes Star ornament\n\n- The car sometimes throws an error message on startup about 'Battery Protection, comfort features disabled', usually an indication of one or two faulty batteries (since the car has two of them)\n\nSo, while this may seem like a long list we have to consider the number of gizmos and systems that do work given this is an almost fully optioned E55 with an original MSRP of **EUR 113.859,80**. Also fixing this stuff is mostly very straight forward and I costed it into the purchase price and overall expected project cost.\n\n## Initial Cleanup, Cosmetics and Tires\n\\\nSince I bought the car in January and this winter was especially brutal with long periods of sub zero, rain, sleet, snow, hail, etc. I took care of the tires first thing and ordered a set of 18\" winter tires:\n\n**HANKOOK Winter i*cept evo2 W320 tires with dimensions 245/40R18 97V + 265/35R18 97V**\n\nAs some of you can see the 'V' indicates a speed limitation on the tire of officially 240km/h so they're probably good for around 260km/h with a load index of 97 which equates to 730kg. I mention the load index as this is an important factor for summer tires rated over 240 or 270 km/h because that requires a load index higher than 96 for the rear wheels which severely narrows down the available tires specified up to 300km/h which this car is able to reach. There are no winter tires with 300km/h specification for this car, at least officially.\n\nEither way I supported my local tire guy and paid a bit of a premium but I did not want to do all my car shopping on the big online platforms and always enjoy having a qualified wheel guy around the neighborhood.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/TASWHPb.jpg\n\nHe had them on site a few days later and I got them installed which threw the first used car buying surprise. Get this, *the front axle had one 9\" rear wheel mounted on the right with a front tire and the rear axle had one 8\" front wheel with a rear tire mounted on the left rear* - hence the vibration under braking. Obviously this lead to a severe imbalance in the drivetrain and suspension. So we mounted the new tired and balanced the wheels and they went on the car.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/d0BeoZ7.jpg\n\nThe car had different lengths wheel lugs front and rear and this was due to 10-15mm spacers mounted on the front. Since they were not registered in the car papers I was going to remove them when going to the shop.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/fWp69Cs.jpg\n\nTo round it off I put on some genuine standard silver Mercedes center caps, really do like the look of these and they cost less than EUR 20.\n\nI had gotten a set of original, used LED tail lights which all E55s and all Avantgarde trim level S211s came with in December already and since I couldn't be bothered driving around with cheap looking smoked tail lights I quickly installed them as well as a stock chrome grill.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/khf7b55.jpg\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/ZHfTTaY.jpg\n\nSo before:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/6FpG0R9.jpg\n\nAnd after:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/V203zOt.jpg\n\nAnd before:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/V9T7frM.jpg\n\nAnd after:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/1KpSWwJ.jpg\n\nThe car is parked in front of the Berlin Olympic Stadium after my first cleanup.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/EiiHsVh.jpg\n\nNo, the donut marks are not mine even though it probably would not have hurt the power steering pump anymore than it was hurt already.\n\nLike the original look much better personally, obviously a question of preference.\n\nAnother little thing were the key batteries, which were almost entirely drained and the car came with all of the original keys!!\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/92Ga4ty.jpg\n\nThe large round one is actually the remote control for the auxiliary heating which you can program to start heating the car before your drive in cold conditions. I never used it to this day :).\n\nNext up I replaced the mirror signals with factory ULO parts, cost around 60 bucks, easily remove 10 years of age from the look of the car. These are original LED side markers, look very cool and pretty nice feature for 2005. The only strange thing is that the car has LED tail lights, LED side markers but no LEDs on the headlights.\n\nBefore making my way to the shop for the initial maintenance items and oil change and stuff I took it upon myself to clean up the engine bay:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/NsCvC6J.jpg\n\nIt wasn't terrible dirty but also looked like it hadn't been cleaned in a long time which I actually like because some sellers think it a great idea to power wash the entire engine bay before selling the car and submerge all kinds of electrical connectors, spark plug holes, switches and sensors and that kind of trouble shooting is tedious and just unnecessary. I use standard cold cleaner, brush and some microfibre towels. I also replaced the broken front cover with a new one which I found on ebay classifieds for EUR 140 - it is discontinued from Mercedes so good to get it while you can.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/ROQ20zY.jpg\n\nHere is the old star that practically fell off as I was removing the cover:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/IzjdZpT.jpg\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/gGnLHoJ.jpg\n\nOn the lower left you can see the SBC (Sensotronic Brake Control) pump assembly.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/ouM1q2U.jpg\n\nNext to the coolant expansion tank you can guess the location of the power steering pump which we'll have to replace soon.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/7QzQwzr.jpg\n\nThe centrally mounted supercharger sits inbetween the V and is cooled by an intercooler which sits below the charger even deeper in the V between the cylinders. Here is a diagram of the intricate cooling system which actually is very efficient but definitely needs the auxiliary pump (lower left) to work correctly:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/dZFR9Nk.jpg\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/JS7ckSC.jpg\n\nThis is the right rear section of the engine bay housing the cabin air filter, positive battery terminal and below the air filter housing the secondary battery.\n\nI replaced the air filter and checked the secondary battery which looked new and recently replaced, which the previous owner said he'd done.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/9woVLz2.jpg\n\nThe cabin filter was totally shot and old but check it out, genuine Mercedes part :). I put a MANN & HUMMEL one in.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/l7nsAWB.jpg\n\nAll plastics and cables seemed in very good condition.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/Xh5YMtX.jpg\n\nOverall the engine bay was very tidy except for a surface rusted front right reinforcement plate and some related misalignment along the front end where the radiator and headlights sit.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/h3pP15E.jpg\n\nAbove you can see the crankcase ventilation hose going to the airbox near the throttle body. If you do a prepurchase inspection or have an E55 and are unaware, always check for the presence and correct fitment of this hose as it can lead to a number of issues if missing or cracked.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/HWiS4ck.jpg\n\nI also noticed this large air hose going from the supercharger to...well nowhere, it was disconnected and just kind of hanging down in front of the SBC pump. The hose was a two piece with factory markings and clearly an AMG part but obviously was missing something on the other end. After some research I found out that at the other end **the secondary air injection pump** was supposed to sit. Remember the check engine light? Yes, it all came together. I still hadn't managed to read the codes from the ECU but a disconnected or missing SLP (the air injection pump) would certainly explain the error code. For the time being, I left it in and checked the other outlets on the front side of the supercharger and noticed this rubber AMG blind plug on the other side:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/wSPwdwO.jpg\n\nMore on that later.\n\n## Shopday Numbers 1 and 2 - Valve Cover Gaskets and other stuff\n\\\nhttps://i.imgur.com/DrCfTbR.jpg\n\nFull of confidence that I'd be able to reslove most the mechanical and big item issues from the list above and based on around 70 hours of research and parts and tools preperation and buying I went to the good ol' shop and was ready to go to work:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/n2Dn4VF.jpg\n\n- Engine oil and filter\n- Valve Cover Gaskets left and right\n- Serpentine and Supercharger belts\n- Power Steering pump and fluid\n- 16 new wheel lugs (equal length)\n- 1 front engine cover (used but good condition, AMG part, very hard to find)\n- 1 center engine cover (used but original and good)\n- 1 transmission cover (used but original, cracked slightly on the rear right)\n- 2 wheel well liners (new, not original, terrible fit!!)\n\nOil and parts were reasonably affordable but the underside covers front to back set me back EUR 350. If you have them especially when they are AMG specific with the air vents in front - hold on to them :).\n\nI went for the Mercedes recommended Mobil1 0W-40. The original 'New Life' oil for this engine is actually discontinued by Mobil 1 and this 'FS' one is the successor even though it is generally agreed that the quality is not the same as before. Either way I went with this as the safest and most stock variant.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/9nCK6To.jpg\n\nDue to completely collapsed jack points which are rubber pieces clipped into the outer frame rails it took me forever and a day to even get the car lifted because there are special little 'extenders' which I didn't have that are used to put the car onto the lift points as the side rocker panels actually extend down further than the jack points and you risk bending and/or scratching them when you don't use the extenders.\n\nNeedless to say I put it up anyway and ordered me some 4 rubber extenders, you can get them for any Mercedes model for like EUR 8 - really useful!!\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/lBajhmI.jpg\n\nStarting with the oil I drained the old oil from both drainplugs **the E55 has two drain plugs in the oil pan, if you only do the rear one there's a good 500-1000ml which are left in the engine!** \n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/EfBx0EW.jpg\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/pZgNPwO.jpg\n\nI put in a total of 8L, the engine oil capacity is 8.5L but there's always some oil in the oil cooler and lines so it seemed ok. This engine from factory does not come with a dipstick but instead solely relies on an electronic sensor which you can read via the instrument cluster.\n\nNext up I removed the airbox and covered up the throttle body.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/91aMsot.jpg\n\nThen unplugged and removed the 4 coils of the passenger side bank:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/LgHhoxR.jpg\n\nI also tied the ignition cables to the intake manifold and started removing the valve cover bolts.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/8GZX6M4.jpg\n\nThis is what you end up with, I already cleaned it thoroughly.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/4kAF0C0.jpg\n\nWith the new gasket installed it went back into the car.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/XJDMC6a.jpg\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/F4zHMhe.jpg\n\nIn reverse order, reconnect and bolt down the coils, the front ground wire and the little metallic hose clamp on the lower front and reinsert the valve cover bolts.\n\nIt's important to ensure good and flush fit especially on the back of the engine:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/LCoE6ID.jpg\n\n*Because this was the first time in and under this car for me many things took a lot longer than expected and I didn't to change the driver's side valve cover gasket nor did I attempt to replace the power steering pump, pulleys and belts.*\n\nI did however do a lot of checking and looking at things, how they are put together, routed, their condition and accessibility. On the underside I did notice that the engine and transmission mounts were completely shot but that would be a much bigger operation and take a whole day so > do it later.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/uiIAS5o.jpg\n\nI also saw that this bracket was missing on the passenger side, I ordered a new one later that day. Also you can see a badly deterioirated ground cable going from the transmission to the body. I also ordered that.\n\nAs a final step that day I installed the wheel well liners and underbody panels > quite tedious especially because the non-original, and admittedly very cheap liners I bought had extreme fitment issues. Both were EUR 40 each. Used original ones cost about the same and I strongly recommend those over any non original new stuff.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/XpjZ6sg.jpg\n\nNote the badly worn out front axle, all the wishbones, stab bar and steering rods look about as shot as they were - still drove great though :).\n\nTo wrap things up I gave it a bit of a cleaning and was quite satisfied with the visit to the shop even though I didn't get much done, new oil and some stuff fixed felt good. Plus I found a lot of things to do as well, none of them fatal.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/2mhInvQ.jpg\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/i9lMI7t.jpg\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/MScQ3CF.jpg\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/bMLNmf8.jpg\n\nLooking good for a cosmetically challenged, 15 year old driver with 160.000mls on the clock!\n\n\n\n## Steem ya later!\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/LRwDZh8.jpg",
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      "body": "https://i.imgur.com/MScQ3CF.jpg\n\nHello fellow Steemians!\n\nFollowing the journey I took you on with my 1987 BMW 325i and my 1999 BMW 320i (still my daily) it's time to update you on the newest addition to the 'fleet' - a 2005 Mercedes E55 AMG Wagon (or T-Modell as Mercedes calls it).\n\nFollowing a long and exhausting search, countless messages, 100s of hours browsing online and a few viewings which were a disaster I finally found the one in January of this year.\n\n## The Mighty E55 AMG\n\\\nBefore getting into my purchase, let me briefly go into the history of this car which was launched in 2002. At the time AMG was still partially independent and treated Mercedes cars to a very traditional 'makeover' which usually meant putting a hugely powerful engine into the standard models, in this case the 211 E-Class, and then adding a few bits and bolts like suspension and transmission upgrades, AMG wheels, exhaust system and bodykit as well as some interior appointments like seats and special leather. All in all it was still a very nuanced approach and it also retained much of the classic Mercedes hallmarks in terms of ride comfort and overall 'cushiness'.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/xTMhVov.jpg\n\nWhat made the 211 variant called the 'E55' special was its engine which was AMG's first and to this day only supercharged V8. Based on the 3 valve dual overhead cam (non adjustable) 5.0L V8 engine called M113 they created the 5.5L supercharged M113ML (*M*echanischer *L*ader - german for supercharger) engine with an intercooled charger and a cool 500hp and a mighty torque plateau of 700NM from 2.200rpm to 5.200rpm. **All engines were hand built at AMG in in Affalterbach and received a plaque with the builder's name on top.** \n\nMercedes AMG officially rated the engine at 476hp for Europe, 469hp for the US but there isn't a 55 that left the factory below 500hp - this is more to do with the power figure for the higher priced SL, CL, CLS and S class models needing to be a tad higher than for the 'cheaper' E class.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/1jl34rZ.jpg\n\nBeing the smallest model in the range to receive this engine also meant that it was the lightest, take that with a grain of salt as most models weigh in at around 1.800kg+ depending on options, and therefore fastest.\n\nAt the time of release the E55 sedan and wagon were the fastest production cars in their class in the world, the wagon held that record for a few years since it actually accelerated faster than the sedan and eclipsed the 100km/h mark in less than 4.5 seconds, with good tires and low fuel you can easily go below 4.0 seconds. In addition the top speed was limited to either 155mph (250km/h) or raised to a factory 186mph (300km/h). Completely unregulated both models will go up to around 310-320km/h.\n\nNeedless to say these cars are bullet trains built for the Autobahn and straight line acceleration, cross continent high speed travel and *not* for your local backroads or local racetracks. Afterall, this is what's known as the 'Taxi' in Mercedes' lineup. The upside to this, and this is the magic of this car, is clearly the mind blowing combination of high end luxury, silky smooth ride quality, air suspension and very tame handling characteristics paired with an insanely powerful engine which draws all its charme from the low end and pleases the ear constantly with a very present and very unique V8 blower sound.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/pjZlm8s.jpg\n\nI said it the M113ML was the only supercharged V8 AMG built which technically speaking is incorrect as the Mercedes Mclaren SLR supercar also received this engine but in the variant of the M155ML which was a modified M113ML featuring different intake, improved fuel injectors, headers for the exahaust, dry sump oil system and a different supercharger with an improved intercooler resulting in well over 600hp. Through my journey with the E55 I've come to know a few people who actually managed to put some of these parts on their 55 engines to increase performance and/or durability.\n\nSo without boring the living daylights out of you you get the picture. These cars always fascinated me and are quiet sought after enthusiast cars now that they've depreciated. Good E55s never really went below 10k EUR in Germany, in the US you can maybe find some for less than 10k USD. Thing is I did not want to buy a perfect one with nothing to do, this was supposed to be a 'COVID project' for lockdown days plus I wanted to really get into the Mercedes tech of this early 2000s era since I really have learned, explored and done everything possible on the BMWs of this era and was a bit tired of my Bavarian 'patients'. So I needed a good base, ideally original condition and in a good running state with some cosmetic/mechanical todos and that I found in December of last year...\n\n## The Purchase - Research and Selection\n\\\nDuring my research I had spotted this one early on but didn't prioritize it because it was a) far away on the other end of the country and b) not completely original which is usually a bad sign (lights, grill, stickers)\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/hZDFnrk.jpg\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/E7THBx7.jpg\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/lIHQIZl.jpg\n\nNever the less the more I viewed and contacted other offerings the more it turned out this one was actually a potential winner since it had an honest history, very few owners, was a German car and not 're'imported and offered a unique combination in terms of options. In addition to the already very long standard options it came with:\n\n- auxiliary heating\n- keyless entry and start function (KEYLESS GO)\n- radar operated cruise control (DIStronic)\n- special order 'Designo' exterior color (Graphite Grey Metallic)\n- special order 'Designo' alcantara headliner\n- sunroof\n- power lift gate\n- garage door opener\n- tinted windows in the rear\n- Harmann Kardon sound system\n- heated seats in the rear\n- 'Dynamic' massage seats \n- deletion of all exterior badges\n\nNow this combination is quite unique and I found the color, very rare and not silver or black, as well as the options very appealing.\n\nThe car had 160.000mls/257.000km and the current owner had it for over 8 years, it sat on original AMG 18\" wheels and had no modifications to engine, transmission, exhaust, brakes and suspension which is quite rare at this point in the car's age. There were some maintanance related unintended modifications which I would later find out - but such is the old German performance buying experience :).\n\nAs for potential faults, I specifically asked about the big ticket items:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/Q06YOG7.jpg\n\n- Engine, the 'Check Engine' light was on and the owner told me that on the phone, it was also visible on one of the pistures *owner said this was diagnosed and related to the SLP pump, secondary air injection pump, which is faulty but not vital to the engine and therefore not a big issue*. I did some research and found out that if indeed the SLP pump was to blame for this it would be no biggie but obviously I did not know for sure what was behind the light so I figured I'd read the fault codes when on location.\n\n- SBC brakes, this generation Mercedes has a unique sensotronic, electro-hydraulic braking system with a very bad rep - it actually isn't  bad but it is special and can get expensive as the brakes are actuated by a pump which gets an electronic signal from the brake pedal so the pedal is not actually connected to the brakes. Also the pump has a limited amount of actuations it can go through - *the owner said it's never thrown an error during his ownership and that discs and pads front and rear had recently been replaced*\n\n- AIRmatic air suspension, all E55 AMGs came standard with the Airmatic suspension, 2 air struts up front and 2 airbags plus 2 dampers in the rear (wagon specific), great suspension with 4 height and hardness settings and a pump and multiple lines going through all 4 corners of the car. If it breaks it's usually one of the struts or dampers or airbags or all of those and it gets very expensive very quickly. Good news is this stuff rarely breaks all at once and actually is quite durable - *the owner said, never had an issue but also never did anything to the suspension during his ownership*\n\n- Transmission, this car uses the venerable 722.6 5 speed slush box, super durable and pretty straight forward *owner said he had a receipt from a trans flush from 2015 and never had an issue*\n\n- Wheels and tires, car came with the standard 18\" AMG Styling IV wheels in 8x18 and 9x18, important to get these wheels with the car as any original AMG wheels are very expensive and getting more expensive by the day *owner said the tires are shot summer tires but they keep air and can be driven*\n\n- Electronics, the 211 is known for a myriad of issues mostly due to owners and mechanics using the wrong or faulty batteries (the car has 2) and misdiagnosing under voltage error codes as system/ecu specific faults which are actually solely related to the batteries *owner said the keyless entry and start is inoperable, the radar cruise control works and there are no other issues*\n\nAfter a few calls with the owner we came to an agreement and I looked into how to get the car to Berlin, it was located 830km South West from my location. A few quotes from car shipping companies ranged from 'that's too far out' to '600-1200 EUR' and in the middle of lockdown it was tricky anyway so I figured I'll just go pick it up.\n\nThe car was deregistered so I had to get plates which in Germany is not so easy when you're not a dealer so I got myself an appointment at the local DMV down at the car's location to get temporary plates before the viewing. In case I wouldn't buy the car all I'd lose is around EUR40 for the plates and 30 minutes of my time.\n\n## Purchase and Drive home - 24 hrs aren't enough! \n\\\nSo I was faced with picking up the car, in the middle of nowhere, during lockdown, in winter! Sounds like fun don't it?\n\nI figured the cheapest and easiest would be to rent a car, drive down to the Luxemburg border, get the plates, go to the car, do the test drive, negotiate and pay, return the rental and drive home. Obviously it seemed likely that this would take so long that I wouldn't make it in one go so I planned for a nap on the way back and just continue whenever I was ready.\n\nI got a good deal with the rental and made the huge mistake of picking an Audi A4 Avant over a BMW 3 series. I always make this mistake when it comes to rentals, the Audis attract me so much that I forget their inevitable flaws in ergonomics and drivetrain. If you want to learn more check out my review of a comparable A5 here:\n\nhttps://steemit.com/cars/@peterschroeter/my-2019-audi-a5-sportback-review-or-500-miles-in-the-most-beautiful-ruined-car-ever\n\nIn any case it luckily had pleasant steering and was pretty comfortable so I set out at 6am and made my way to the Autobahn:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/7iOGSWC.jpg\n\nThe first few hours were done in complete darkness until a shallow sunrise combined with some light snow and fog greeted me some 400km down south, only 400km more to go:\nhttps://i.imgur.com/RBOi8Yd.jpg\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/ryBdL7P.jpg\n\nUpon arrival I went to the local DMV to get the plates, after another inevitable hickup (my insurance number wouldn't work so I got one for 50 bucks via SMS) I had my plates and at 2:30pm was ready to view the car. In case you're wondering, yes, I am certifiable.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/HzYoWB0.jpg\n\nDue to privacy I don't have any pictures of the car at the owner's house or the test drive.\n\nAfter a thorough inspection, test drive and negotiation I did buy the car and after returning my rental and the seller generously offering to drive with me to the return station 30 minutes from his house and back I for the first time sat in my E55 and eased it out of his driveway to the nearest gas station.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/xwVbGJj.jpg\n\nI knew that the car had sat outside for over 6 months and not been moved much during that time so transmission, engine and supercharger were slow to wakeup from the slumber. Nothing better than a near 1.000km drive home to warm everything up and test every button in the interior.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/V9T7frM.jpg\n\nThe car had smoked out grill instead of the original chrome and an after market front bumper, it features the side air ducts from the later E63 models but doesn't have the pointy nose. I knew it wasn't original but quite like the look of it. Also there was no front plate holder.\n\nI noticed a rubbing/vibration in the brakes under certain load conditions and speeds during the test drive but couldn't pin it down. Also, the headlight lenses were pretty dull and the left xenon bulb was red and didn't illuminate much which was great as it was already dark and I had 800km ahead of me and the weather report showed 'heavy fog and sleet' Yeehaaa!\n\nOther than that though everything on the car worked, the engine pulled strong, there were no creaks or rattles, it felt solid as a tank and the overall condition and electronic status seemed really good!\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/ciIXtEU.jpg\n\nI filled up the car and the tires and put on the tire pressure monitoring system which to my surprise worked like a charm, the tires were shot summer tires but they didn't lose any air and the ride was let's say manageable - I also never exceeded 80mph (120kmh) :). I would have liked to change the oil filter then and there but the owner had documentation that it had been done less than 4.000km ago so I just filled the engine up to level with some Petronas 0W40 and kept an eye on the level throughout the trip.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/AnKIOug.jpg\n\nI did the run to Frankfurt am Main in one go before turning east to head home to Berlin and did a quick stopover. It was around 8:30pm and I had covered 375km.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/LPNPaGL.jpg\n\nAt this point I got pretty familiarized and comfortable with the car and loved it. The most surprising thing about the trip so far was how uneventful it was - the car started, ran, worked and drove just fine with the only worry being the warm glow of the check engine light which I was unable to diagnose as none of my code readers worked when I viewed the car - yeah, anyway.\n\nSo I went on my way and the first gas stop came up at around 11:08pm and some 450km. You can tell by the time and distance covered how slow my progress was, it was cold, windy, icy, snowy and I was accompanied by constant heavy fog with headlights that seem to work 30% maybe and two fog lights that did work but pointed more toward the moon than the road ahead.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/6FpG0R9.jpg\n\nAs you can see the most heavily modified section was the rear with the blacked out aftermarket tail lights, inoperable rear wiper and a bunch of stickers.\n\nShortly after this gas stop at around midnight I was getting tired so I stopped to take a nap in the comfy passenger seat.\n\nThe rest of the trip was equally uneventful and I hit Berlin at 3:38am after around 800km total:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/XGx3h6p.jpg\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/rWfQKlw.jpg\n\nHere you can see my trip stats:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/EmbjllZ.jpg\n\nI was pleasantly surprised with my 5.5L charged V8 averaging out at 12.5L/100km. After checking the oil, the car had 'consumed' around 0.5L of engine oil which is to be expected following my almost 1.000km stint after it had sat outside for 6 months without having been moved.\n\nHere it is parked outside for the first night:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/9jXVYfC.jpg\n\nThis was only one of three times so far that I left it outside but at that point with temporary plates I just parked it in front of the police station and went home to get some sleep.\n\nThis is the end of part 1. Join me for the next one to learn about my journey with the E55 wagon, trust me there's quite some surprises coming up.\n\nSteem ya later!\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/bMLNmf8.jpg",
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      "body": "https://i.imgur.com/Pdd7TXQ.jpg\n\nWelcome back to my shop diary on my '99 BMW E46 320i and the wrap up to the most dreaded repair on this engine in this chassis which is the complete replacement of the exhaust manifolds with built in catalytic converters which are these babies here:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/INHnovI.jpg\n\nAfter having reinstalled the complete rear exhaust system and center structural support beams:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/eZm1h9y.jpg\n\nAs well as all the underbody covers and beams which I wrapped up at 8:15pm after 12 hours and 15 minutes of marathon shop work I returned the next day to get the car and put finishing touches on it:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/zppaE6q.jpg\n\nAn initial visual inspection of the new manifolds:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/pTqxWW2.jpg\n\nAnd a second start up and walk around:\n\nhttps://d.tube/#!/v/peterschroeter/853sqjhfk33\n\nA world of difference! To recap here is what was replaced in the session:\n\n- 2 new exhaust manifolds with cats bank 1 and bank 2\n- 2 new post cat lambda nodes\n- new gaskets and bolts/nuts connecting the manifolds with the rear exhaust\n- 4 new studs put into the cylinder head and 16x new nuts for the manifolds\n- 2 new exhaust manifold gaskets/heat shields\n\nI also deleted all the codes relating to the issues and they didn't return since mainly the error code relating to lambda node 2 post cat reporting wrong values or nothing at all.\n\nNow here's what's still to be done to finish it:\n\n- reinstall AC line and fill the AC system\n- reinstall various covers and plugs to the engine\n- reinstall washer bottle\n- reroute and connect the post-cat lambda node cables\n\n## Manifold Replacement Wrap Up\n\\\nFirst up the cabin air filter housing has to go again:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/xRGcZiQ.jpg\n\nRemove the topside engine cover and then route the lambda cables like this:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/r0LKPbh.jpg\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/qyOzmFQ.jpg\n\nMake sure they're in the right order!\n\nHere is how I tied them behind the engine:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/bdWddS0.jpg\n\nAnd up close on top of the fuel rail:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/q5GRopW.jpg\n\nPut everything back together and the AC line back in:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/7L7hfOf.jpg\n\nAfter an initial test drive I checked the gasket and nuts for good fit and tight sealing:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/GFtF6Vc.jpg\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/reur374.jpg\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/iLPy8H8.jpg\n\nLooking good!\n\nI had the AC refilled and it works like a charm.\n\nI put the engine cover bolt plugs and washer bottle back in and gave everything a very thorough cleaning:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/0g4W4dS.jpg\n\nFollowing this I recommend a good, long, hard test drive:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/GoyJPqE.jpg\n\nI got it up to around 210km/h which was a good 200km/h GPS - not bad for a 400.000km+ engine that's never been opened!\n\nNone of the error codes have returned and the engine, more specifically the exhaust, sound like new.\n\nTo top it all of I replaced the engine top cover which was pretty destroyed after 20 years to give it a nice fresh look:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/mFBShuM.jpg\n\nThanks for following me on my final steps in getting my daily driver to its well deserved retirement (at least from daily driving duties :)\n\nSteem on fellas!\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/BAcjJl8.jpg",
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      "body": "https://i.imgur.com/Cso9BH9.jpg\n\nWelcome back fellow Steemians to Part 3 of my 2020 'reverse shop diary' on my 1999 BMW 320i which is nearing completion and is about to go to the German biannual technical check > TUV!\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/GDLnIC4.jpg\n\nBefore going there I needed to take care of my brakes though, specifically the front ones as the discs and pads were unchanged since I bought the car 6 years and 60.000mls/100.000km ago - needless to say they were completely shot.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/EVDsR2C.jpg\n\nIronically they still performed well and without any noise or error code which speaks volumes to the quality of the parts - whose origin I don't know as I bought the car with these brakes.\n\nHere you can see 'somewhat' of a lip on the rotors:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/fQkO4zf.jpg\n\nStill I believe that these were genuine BMW rotors as they didn't show any sign of vibration, fatigue or loss of performance to the very end which usually only genuine rotors do.\n\n## Required Parts\n\\\nBefore going in I bought the following:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/voyeBuw.jpg\n\n- 2 genuine BMW ventilated front rotors (286x22mm)\n\n- BREMBO brake pads front and rear\n\n- Meyle wear sensors front and rear\n\n- ATE Plastilube lubricant for disc brakes\n\nWe'll be only using one of the wear sensors as there's only one per axle.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/H98mEam.jpg\n\nI did not have any prior experience with Brembo brake pads but so far I must say they seem to be of the highest quality:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/kPibXhY.jpg\n\nAs for the discs, there are cheaper ones out there but at a unit cost of EUR 68.89 for a total of EUR 137.78 I went for original as brakes are quite important and the vibration and fading on non-OEM parts has a long history.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/ySGWipY.jpg\n\nAs you'll see later these discs are also BMW stamped and come directly from the manufacturer.\n\n**There are a few other parts you don't have to replace but I went for it as it was my first brake job on this car and I probably won't have to do it again anytime soon.**\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/ICcIVZa.jpg\n\nThe caliper bracket is fixed with two 16mm bolts to the front wheel carrier. This being a floating caliper disc brake design the caliper which houses the piston is fixed with two guide pins (also bolts) to the caliper bracket. You can see a dust cap which should be black but is now almost indistinguishably grey which cover the guide pins next to the bolts.\n\nI bought 4 new bolts and 4 new dust caps, guide pins were fine on my car so I didn't buy them. Also one guide bolt costs EUR 22+ so only replace them if necessary.\n\nThe only other part I bought was 2 new arresting springs that keep the outside brake pad in the right position in the caliper.\n\nHere are most of the tools you'll need plus a 16mm socket with a **long** extension!\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/FC4seJm.jpg\n\nOn to the job then...\n\n# Replacing Front Brakes on an E46 BMW\n\\\nThis operation is equivalent on E36, E38, E39 and countless other BMWs and cars in general if they have a floating caliper design with wear sensors and ABS.\n\n## Removing the brake system\n\\\nAfter removing the wheel we're greeted by this, I've removed the arresting spring already:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/EVDsR2C.jpg\n\nFirst of all remove the wear sensor from the pad:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/wPNoEfy.jpg\n\nStart opening the sensor housing in the wheel well and free the entire cable from the connector to the brake but don't remove it yet.\n\n**NOTE: Before doing anything around the caliper, open the brake fluid reservoir and put a rag around the opening to prevent overflow when you push the piston back later on!**\n\nLubricate and remove the two guidance bolt dust caps and remove them, here you can see the thread coming out of the brake pad, you'll have to do quite some wrenching to get these out all the way:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/GoyJPqE.jpg\n\nAs you can see I've lubricated the two 16mm bolts that hold the bracket already - **these will be hard to loosen!**\n\nAfter having removed the guide bolts and wear sensor you can slide the caliper with the pads off of the brake disc.\n\nUse some cable clamps to tie the caliper to the front strut so as to not stretch the brake line unnecessarily.\n\n*Now all you have to do is get these two 16mm bolts loose and off of the car and you can remove the bracket as well.*\n\nYou can now loosen the brake disc arresting bolt and hammer the old disc off of the wheel hub et voila:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/a12wDnP.jpg\n\nYou can see my caliper 'hanging' in the background. Now use some brake cleaner and a metal brush to thoroughly clean the wheel hub and ideally also the anchor plate:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/olJ5QdO.jpg\n\nI was quite amazed how well these parts looked after the cleaning given the likely age of 20+ years and mileage of over 405.000km!\n\n# Examining the old parts\n\\\nhttps://i.imgur.com/QLVkaVF.jpg\n\nWell there we are. I must say these are some of the most worn brakes, discs and pads, I've ever seen. The wear sensor must have broken down as it is beyond me how it could not have thrown an error code with the pad level down this much.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/lpvISEE.jpg\n\nThese are **done!**\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/iUZNf3D.jpg\n\nThat is **done!**. Note the lip around the inside of the disc - totally shot.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/Trrtzhs.jpg\n\nThere's still some material on there but overall it wouldn't have been long until the caliper goes into the disc so good to have done this now!\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/qzODY7m.jpg\n\n## Installing the new brake\n\\\nBefore installation make sure to clean the old parts you'll be reusing in my case:\n\n- calipers\n- caliper brackets\n- caliper guide bolts (make sure these are like new!)\n\n**NOTE: Contrary to some online tutorials you should not treat or cover the wheel hub with any lubricant whatsoever. According to BMW shop manuals and common experience any excess material will lead to a misalignment of the new brake disc and wheel hub and lead to vibration, shaking, lack of performance, premature tear and wear and follow on damage.** So give it a good clean until the surface is silky smooth and then put the new brake disc on the hub.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/csV9l28.jpg\n\nYou can see the etched BMW logo and part number - definitely a nice piece of machinery!\n\nNext you'll have to thoroughly clean your caliper bracket - your new brake pads will travel in it so any area around the edges needs to be cleaned with a metal and or wire brush (I actually used a big and a small one) and subsequently lubricated with the ATE Plastilube disc brake lubricant or equivalent.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/ay6l2l7.jpg\n\n**Brake Disc to Wheel Hub > Torque to 16NM.**\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/D3D7n0n.jpg\n\nFor this I used my 'small' torque wrench.\n\nReattach the brake caliper bracket to the wheel hub carrier and tighten the 16mm bolts:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/21ZjEDp.jpg\n\nYou can now slide in the outside brake pad into the bracket.\n\n**Caliper Bracket to Wheel Carrier > Torque to 110NM.**\n\nHere the other side:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/ziHDgoq.jpg\n\nI actually did this job sort of synchronized for both sides just because I was tired to always do one side first and then the other :).\n\nLooking quite nice already:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/K5uNY2B.jpg\n\nNext you want to use some large pliers or a specialty tool to push the brake caliper piston back into its zero position, it needs to go back all the way! \n\nNow clean and lubricate the brake pad rails on the caliper and push the inside brake pad into the caliper until it *clicks*.\n\nYou can now slide the caliper back over the new disc into position, you can also snap on the brake caliper arresting spring now:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/zlncDIy.jpg\n\nNext up take your guiding bolts and lubricate them with Plastilube - **do not put any lubricant on the bolt thread!**\n\nSlide the guide bolts back in and tighten them.\n\n**Caliper to Bracket Guide Bolts > Torque to 30NM.**\n\nPut the dust boots in - in my case I used new ones.\n\nNow it's time to guide the new wear sensor from the connector box along the front strut through the vent screw on the caliper to the brake pad and that is it.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/E0xuDyY.jpg\n\nBrake is done - it should take no more than 2 hours for both sides.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/wviXJxa.jpg\n\n**You can now put the wheel back on and tighten the lugs to the regular 120NM.**\n\nNow you should take a minute to marvel at your new brakes through the wheel:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/ufw3mv8.jpg\n\n## Final steps\n\\\nAfter lowering the car back down you need to get in and move the key into position 2 and carefully press the brake pedal a few times until you feel some resistance > do not push it in all the way.\n\nYou have just pressed the piston back against the disc and leveled the brake bluid level in the reservoir. You should now either add or remove fluid from the reservoir until it is level at the 'MAX' indicator. \n\n**In my case I actually had to pump fluid out which makes sense as my discs and pads were so worn that the piston sat further back with the new disc and new thicker pads.**\n\n**Brake fluid should be changed every two years!**\n\nYou can now reset the service indicator by bridging Pin 7 to ground (Pin 19) in the service connector:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/5oevc1D.jpg\n\nGround Pin 7 for 12 seconds to reset the service and brake fluid light > **The clock symbol you see in your gauge cluster is the symbol for brake fluid change overdue!**\n\nHere the cluster after reset and startup:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/YJZkdC5.jpg\n\nHere everything is reset including the oil service which I've also done on the same day and will document in the next part!\n\n## Join me again soon to go the 'last miles' with this car before it (hopefully) passes the TUEV and can go into a well deserved retirement from daily driving duties!\n\nSteem on!\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/mOD4SMc.jpg",
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      "body": "https://i.imgur.com/WAB0es9.jpg\n\nWelcome back Steemians! This year I'm doing my workshop diary in reverse, starting with the most recent repair and going back to the beginning as I haven't had a chance to write down much of anything regarding ongoing repair and maintenance on my (still) daily driver '99 BMW 320i with the venerable M52 straight 6 engine.\n\nToday it's part 2 of the most dreaded and painful repairs you could do on this platform which is replacing the exhaust manifolds with built in catalytic converters. Most shops will turn away, chase you off the yard or charge you a cool 2 grand which could possibly go up to 4 grand or outright suggest crushing the car - needless to say none of those options work for me.\n\nFind Part 1 here:\n\nhttps://steemit.com/doityourself/@peterschroeter/diy-save-your-6-cylinder-bmw-from-the-crusher-exhaust-manifold-cats-removal-step-by-step-e46-m52-m54\n\n# Manifold Installation\n\\\nSo we got the car up on the lift and I just returned from my quick parts run to buy two brand spanking new post cat lambda nodes:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/9pvXN0S.jpg\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/tQpUjgA.jpg\n\nReason for the new lambda nodes was that during removal of one of the old ones the thread got damaged. \n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/T49jqSm.jpg\n\nUsing the regular tools did not work at all as it was seriously corroded to the old manifold.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/BYUwUVv.jpg\n\nThat said, since I recently replaced the pre-cat ones and these post-cat ones may as well have been the 20 year old originals it's good to replace them anyway especially as I've had an error code for the bank 2 post cat lambda node for some time.\n\nNow at this point in my session it was 4:45pm, 8 hours and 45 minutes into the job, and I had 3 hours and 15 minutes left as they close at 8pm.\n\nThe engine was ready for the new manifolds:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/NDNAdPC.jpg\n\nNew manifolds were ready for installation:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/INHnovI.jpg\n\nAnd we have all the small parts needed ready as well:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/SAhkzZr.jpg\n\nThing is can the reinstall of the entire exhaust system, cabeling of all the lambdas, fitment of the AC line and reassembly of all the covers and structural support beams be done in 3 hours? The shop mechanic didn't believe it and assured me that I could leave the car there over night and commence on Saturday but I was determined to get it done before the end of the day so here we go.\n\n## Rear Manifold Installation\n\\\nWe have to go in reverse order now so installing the rear manifold first because you won't be able to reach at least the bottom row of nuts once the front manifold is in.\n\nAt this point it is **a lot** of raising and lowering the car because the nuts have to be tightened in a balanced fashion top to bottom and left to right so the gasket seals fully.\n\nFirst of all insert any missing studs into the cylinder head, use the new gasket for guidance **as not all the drilling holes receive a stud!**\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/NKzxe9v.jpg\n\nNext remember to fit the gasket before you put the manifold on, *sounds straight forward but I've forgotten easier things!*\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/jqoIxrZ.jpg\n\nNow you want to install the lambda node into the rear manifold and slide it onto the studs, put some of the nuts on **without tightening them** just so it stays in place:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/VwQLr85.jpg\n\nAs you can see I could reach some of the top studs as well and put nuts on them.\n\nNow lower the car and proceed from above:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/G31C0uh.jpg\n\nNow I can tell you right now with the engine hoist in place it is a pain in the ass to mount, even lightly, the nuts onto the studs as you can simply not reach in or see where you're going or both:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/UVdkFQd.jpg\n\nMake sure to ensure proper fit of the socket on the nut *before* attempting to tighten in any meaningful way:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/Bnjy3Z8.jpg\n\nUp it goes again:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/5oMZ9Rl.jpg\n\nYou want to start to tighten the nuts ever more until you encounter resistance and can see they're sitting well on the studs:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/LScDICo.jpg\n\n**Note that the new studs from BMW, the replacement ones, are shorter than the original ones so make sure to constantly check for flush and tight seating of the manifold on the gasket and the gasket on the cylinder head.**\n\nTighten the top row so that you can't turn the nuts anymore and you have flush seating and especially make sure to get the very top one close to the firewall on correctly and all the way as that one will lead to an uneven fit if not done correctly once you tighten the bottom row:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/Zt26bCE.jpg\n\nMake sure it is arrested in place and head-gasket-manifold sit tight. Before we lower again channel the lambda node cable up behind the engine along the manifold and put the connector on top of the most rearward manifold tube so you can pick it from above.\n\nFor the final tightening of the bottom row, you guessed it,  we'll go up again:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/7VncOkW.jpg\n\n## Front Manifold Installation\n\\\nAnd there it is, sitting neatly in place. Before we lower it to fetch our lambda cable, it's time to put the front manifold in and attach as many nuts as possible from below. Again we tighten up to resistance ensuring flush fit.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/PQI0gIL.jpg\n\nFrom above start to attach and tighten the front manifold nuts with whatever combination of ratchets, extensions and sockets (size 11) works for you:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/WL4TEsn.jpg\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/mEozeJG.jpg\n\nThe front one is even worse for accessibility with the engine hoist in place as the rear one.\n\nTry your best! At this point it is 6:30pm - 90 minutes left and I'm loosing my faith in being able to finish but on it goes. After 10 1/2 hours fatigue sets in and you drop one or the other part into inaccessible areas:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/OJEgD6l.jpg\n\nYep that's one of the nuts, luckily I bought a thin and extendable illuminated magnet to fish this thing out from between the heat shield and the bodywork.\n\nUp again to finalize the front manifold bottom row, once that is done **you can reassemble the engine mount and remove the engine hoist** because if it stays in place there's no way to tighten the top row nuts.\n\n**Make sure you tighten the front row top row and ensure a good fit as there's no going back from this point!**\n\nHere are both manifolds in position:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/Hb7VCVn.jpg\n\nAnd from the front with exhaust bolts already inserted into the holes:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/6d3iMX4.jpg\n\nChannel the front manifold post-cat lambda node cable to the top and lower the car once more to fetch both cables and guide them behind the engine from above and put them on top of the engine - **without them connected the engine will not run correctly and throw a check engine light!**.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/TKBKuTz.jpg\n\n## Reinstall Engine Mount with Bracket\n\\\nWe can now reinstall the engine-mount and its bracket. If you have relatively fresh engine mounts you'll be able to put the mount into the axle carrier hole and attach the bracket to the engine. Tighten the nuts and bolts as much as possible while leaving some flexibility for when the engine is lowered again off the hoist.\n\n**It is a good idea to lower it down a bit so you have it easier when reinserting the mount. \n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/wCIiefe.jpg\n\nAs you can see I actually put the mount back in once I was done with the rear manifold whose bottom row is the one the mount obstructs. It's really up to you which order you take.\n\nNow remove the engine hoist and lower it carefully making sure that the engine rests safely on the mount while lowering and removing the hoist.\n\nOnce everything sits tight, raise the car and tighten the engine mount bottom nut at the front axle carrier as well as the 4 nuts on the engine side bracket.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/Hb7VCVn.jpg\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/OLakKcC.jpg\n\nIt should look like this in the end:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/wynPdJT.jpg\n\n## Reinstalling the Exhaust System\n\\\nNow comes the time to tighten the final nuts on the top row, as always close to the firewall it gets really messy. Here my setup to see anything at all - it is 7pm - 60 minutes left:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/zkNiNib.jpg\n\nAt some point you'll go by feel which is fine as it is impossible to get even a small torque wrench in there, just make sure they're all tight and the manifolds, gaskets and nuts sit nice and tight and there's no movement at all.\n\nWith the lambda nodes reconnected we can now raise for a final time to reinstall the exhaust to the new manifolds - it is 7:20pm - 40 minutes left until the shop closes. At this point the shop mechanic came by to ask when I'll be there the next day and if I had put the manifolds in yet to which I replied 'They're in and tight and I'll be done today' - he chuckled.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/Hb7VCVn.jpg\n\nInstert new bolts into the manifolds, in my case I used the ones that came with the manifolds. Also remember to put the new gaskets on the manifold end:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/iTnaD8O.jpg\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/iTnaD8O.jpg\n\nNow you'll ideally need a helping hand to put the rear exhaust system in place, it helps to attach the center beam first **but watch to not tighten it already as you'll need the wiggling room to connect it to the manifold tubes up front!**\n\n## Final Steps\n\\\nAt this point I was pressed for time and put all the bottom side pieces back in so tightened all the exhaust system brackets and dampers, put the structural support bar up front and the small one in the center back in and covered it all up with the bottom engine cover.\n\nOn the topside I had 20 minutes left:\n\n- installed the pre-cat lambda nodes\n\n- routed the cables along the valve cover \n\n- reinstalled the valve cover\n\n- connected and routed the post-cat lambda node cables as quickly as possible\n\n- reinstalled the top side engine cover\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/pTqxWW2.jpg\n\nI left the washer tank out for now as well as the AC line but did put in the cabin air filter assembly as that acts as a rain water channel so the engine doesn't get wet:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/xRGcZiQ.jpg\n\nWith no extra bolts, nuts, cables or other spare parts I figured I had it all back together to a 'running state' and rolled out of the shop at 8:15pm - 15 minutes over time and a total of 12 hours and 15 minutes. Thanks for the shop owner for having some patience with me!\n\nThe engine sounded magnificantly smooth and I had actually forgotten how quiet it was, with the hood shut you could hardly hear it running **inside** the shop.\n\nNext to the shop owner I have to say thanks to two products without which this would not have been possible, one is obviously the all mighty PT Blaster - it smells like horse but man does it do its job!\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/d0KAlrV.jpg\n\nThe other may come as a surprise is actually the phone - Blackview BV6300 Pro - what a tank!\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/GGcTn8u.jpg\n\nAmazingly after 6 hours plus of up time with the camera and the flash constantly on here's the battery state:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/NmZtpN9.jpg\n\nEven more amazing is the ruggedness, I dropped it multiple times into the engine bay, onto the shop floor, got stuck between the engine bay and the manifolds and operated it with oily hands or oily gloves and it just looks like new.\n\n## Join me next time for the morning after, wrap up and final touches and a good long test drive:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/zppaE6q.jpg",
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      "title": "DIY BMW 320i E46 > Exhaust Manifold / Cats - Installation - Step by Step (E46 M52/M54) Part 2"
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      "author": "peterschroeter",
      "body": "https://i.imgur.com/EfNcQyw.jpg\n\nWelcome back Steemians! This year I'm doing my workshop diary in reverse, starting with the most recent repair and going back to the beginning as I haven't had a chance to write down much of anything regarding ongoing repair and maintenance on my (still) daily driver '99 BMW 320i with the venerable M52 straight 6 engine.\n\nToday I'll take you on a tour of one of the most dreaded and painful repairs you could do on this platform which is replacing the exhaust manifolds with built in catalytic converters. Most shops will turn away, chase you off the yard or charge you a cool 2 grand which could possibly go up to 4 grand or outright suggest crushing the car - needless to say none of those options work for me.\n\n**Most shops and mechanics (including my own mechanic who I've built several cars with) outright refuse to do this because there's a risk of one or more of the exhaust studs breaking off during disassembly. If this happens in the wrong place the cylinder head has to be removed in order to retrieve the broken stud and replace it with a new one! This would also require to remove the timing chain and disassemble almost the entire engine!**\n\nSo let's do try to avoid that and get it fixed - afterall, who'd want to crush one of the most beautiful BMWs ever made?\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/DLMszEI.jpg\n\nStill any ownership experience asks for some sort of economics and spending that much money on a replacement of an exhaust seems excessive to say the least so I got into the topic and prepared accordingly. \n\nLet's get into it shall we?\n\n# The Issue & Preperations\n\\\nHere's our culprit:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/ep5SVD6.jpg\n\nLooks fine you might say and it does but the issue is mostly invisble - but not inaudible. This engine uses two exhaust manifolds with built in catalytic converters. Below you can see the new ones I bought from a company in the UK which I highly recommend called 'autoteile-classics-shop' which you can find on ebay UK and Germany.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/INHnovI.jpg\n\nOvertime the catalytic converter casing deteriorates and eventually rips open but usually below the outer shell so it is not immediately visible. Initially you will perceive a classic leaking exhaust sound, increasingly leading to pops and ever louder blowing sounds until the engine sounds like an old and broken airplane. Worse still, the car will not be able to pass emmission tests because the exhaust is not cleaned appropriately and a circle of doom starts to unfold:\n\n- air is leaking into the exhaust manifold which over time kills the pre cat lambda nodes\n- exhaust fumes enter the cabin from the engine bay\n- the fuel air mixture calculation based on the lambda nodes is off and leads to less power or higher consumption or both\n- the post cat lambda nodes eventually fail as well\n- the engine, specifically the ignition and fuel system is put under increased strain\n- all kinds of follow up issues are to be expected\n\n*Long story short, you cannot delay or avoid this repair it has to be done and it has to be done right. Some people weld the exhaust this is only a temporary fix as it will leak elsewhere shortly thereafter. Due to the circle of doom the longer you delay the more you'll end up having to replace.*\n\nHere a video of the sound you can expect at the very end of the manifolds lifetime and this is only idle and minimal throttle, if you get to around 3.000rpm it just sounds dreadful:\n\nhttps://d.tube/#!/v/peterschroeter/b0w4zg1uhlf\n\nNow if you look online you will find maybe 3 videos in total of people who have done this (worldwide) so needless to say this is either a very rarely documented or rarely attempted job. One of the most useful is from youtuber '50skid':\n\nhttps://www.youtube.com/c/50sKidAuto/videos\n\nGuy is a genius, mind you he's done the job **without a lift**. Something I would not have even thought about so huge respect to him!\n\nI did find a few blog posts of people and started the parts hunting, next to the manifolds themselves you'll definitely need these parts:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/SAhkzZr.jpg\n\n- exhaust manifold gasket (2x) both identical\n- mainfold bolts and nuts (16x each)\n- flat gasket and nuts for the exhaust system (4x total)\n\nDefinitely test fitting before going to the shop:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/4QxMscs.jpg\n\nAnd do a general fitting test with the parts as they go onto the engine if possible to avoid surprises when under the car:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/CUL2xx3.jpg\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/xbbjxJr.jpg\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/iecYRFC.jpg\n\nMy manifolds actually came with all the nuts and gaskets but to be sure I bought them all original from BMW since I intend to only do this job once:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/Utb1nSA.jpg\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/XSuEcZ4.jpg\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/B8QTcHS.jpg\n\nOne thing I forgot is that the original manifolds come with threaded studs whereas the replacements ones come with bolts and nuts so if I had to do it again I'd buy 4 bolts and nuts from BMW as the ones that came with the manifolds were very long and so handy to install:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/atsFGaH.jpg\n\nYou can see the left side manifold has threaded studs and the right side requires bolts from the factory - not sure why they did that probably for fitment purposes at the assembly line.\n\nNext to these parts you'll probably need 4 new Lambda nodes, two pre- and two post- cat. These parts can be fitted later as well but especially the post cat ones should be done prior to installation for ease of access.\n\n\n\nIn addition to the parts you'll need the following tools, this is easily the most important part of the job as without these it will be either painful or very lengthy or simply impossible:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/G1ytnNN.jpg\n\nNext to these you'll need some special sprays I bought off of Amazon:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/hxT6MEc.jpg\n\nSpecifically this one:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/d0KAlrV.jpg\n\n50skid actually recommended it and it is by far **the single most useful** losening anti rust spray you could every buy!\n\nA week before the actual operation I started spraying the nuts or at least the area around them as far as it's accessible from above/below with everything still installed with this stuff from LIQUI MOLY:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/wOxay9L.jpg\n\nI don't know how much it eased the process in the end but the PT Blaster is definitely more powerful and intense which you can also smell when using it! \n\n*Total cost for parts, tools, manifolds with cats and lubricants was around EUR 650 with the manifolds making up the bulk of it at EUR 400 - quite steep but also miles away from the shop estimate or the value of the car in addition to the fact that no one actually wants to do this for any money at all.*\n\nWith all the parts and tools ready...let's get it on shall we?\n\n# Removing the Manifold - Making Room\n\\\nhttps://i.imgur.com/4r6Ig5Z.jpg\n\nBefore we get to the actual removal process we need to make some room first. The washer bottle on the lower left has to go. Mounted with a size 10 nut it is easily removed, ideally drain it before.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/MoBeVYn.jpg\n\nThe AC compressor can stay in, some people recommend removing it but I actually didn't find it in the way much. That said, the AC line from the compressor to the valve near the firewall definitely has to go. So it's on to evacuating the AC system:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/Z3ASKop.jpg\n\nI always had a weak spot for these little R2 units:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/Vvovzec.jpg\n\nOnce the evacuation is done remove the fillister screw on the firewall side (below the dark line):\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/frbueNw.jpg\n\nAnd also the AC Compressor side screw and remove the line:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/R2qbiKG.jpg\n\n**As we'll remove the entire top row of manifold nuts from the topside engine bay we also have to remove the cabin air filter housing, before you can remove it release the cable canal cover and extract the two cables.**\n\nTo make it even more accessible I also removed the valve cover.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/xRGcZiQ.jpg\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/2qD1VH8.jpg\n\n**Finally remove and mark (very important so you don't mix them up later) the pre cat lambda nodes that run along the edge of the cylinderhead above the manifolds and below the valve cover:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/eCNKK8P.jpg\n\nI simply put one cable tie on the bank 1 node and 2 on the bank 2 node, before you get confused always remember cylinder count starts at the front passenger side so in this case the engine runs 1-2-3-4-5-6 from front to back. Firing order is 16-34-25 ;).\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/rtHIDS0.jpg\n\nNow this is about as much room as we're going to get in terms of access from the top, now would be a good time to put the PT Blaster to good use by folding up the exhaust heat shields upwards and 'blasting' all the nuts you can see or find and then enjoying a hot coffee before commencing.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/yy4QAnb.jpg\n\nI had the car up on the lift raised from the ground slightly to have better access and to save my back from breaking :).\n\n# Removing the Manifold - Topside\n\\\nFor the next 4-8 hours these 4 sockets and extensions will be your best friend:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/Fj3TW1a.jpg\n\n- 1/4\" long size 11 socket\n- 1/4\" short size 11 socket\n- 3/8\" short size 11 socket\n- 1/4\" short and long extensions\n- 3/8\" short and medium extensions\n\nI used these mostly with two ratchets:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/k1gbDKm.jpg\n\n- small 1/4\" ratchet\n- 3/8\" ratchet with flexible head and variable extension\n- 3/8\" ratchet\n\nThe flexible head extendable ratchet was easily the most useful and I don't think I could have done it without it.\n\nAt this point I started using my rugged Blackview phone (which I can highly recommend by the way) the way it was intended to be used:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/zkNiNib.jpg\n\nThis thing was such a life saver! Using the permanent flash in combination with the video camera helped me ensuring that the socket sits firmly on the nut!\n\n**Remember the most important point here is to NOT rip off any of the studs so correct fitment is key here.**\n\nUnfortunately for the top row photos I had the flashlight and the flash on which lead to severe overexposure but you get the drift of things below:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/AUPaTL4.jpg\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/z7vU0ha.jpg\n\nAs you can see here some of the nuts will actually come out with the studs attached so that you're actually screwing the stud out of the cylinder head instead of the nut off of the stud, that is fine as we'll be inserting new studs come reinstallation:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/I6foCCu.jpg\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/7RutDdW.jpg\n\nAs you get closer to the firewall and around cylinder 6 things will get really tight:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/Tpnph0o.jpg\n\n- 3/8\" flexi ratchet\n- small extension\n- short size 11 socket\n\nWith this combination I got to all of the top row nuts and even some on the bottom row:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/n2Oscv6.jpg\n\nAs you can see a number of studs came out but at this point I was *delighted* that none had caused me any undue stress in terms of not moving or ripping. Here my results at 11:30am which was 3 1/2 hours into the operation:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/sobEBbl.jpg\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/ejcmhkV.jpg\n\nI also found that one of the studs didn't have a nut attached, it looks like this has been the case for a good 10 years at least:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/5hzQNwO.jpg\n\nEither it fell off or was never really attached?!\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/nxVXjPs.jpg\n\nAll in all I give credit to the PT Blaster as every nut except for one almost instantly clicked with minimum force applied.\n\n**It is a bit of a feel issue when you first start to apply pressure to see if more pressure should be applied or if you want to put some more blaster or rust remover on it and give it a few minutes before going back. In my case and most of what I read online BMW studs actually do not tend to break that easily so most of the times when the initial release is harder to achieve, use a bigger/longer ratchet and give it a good nudge, most likely it is just the stud releasing from the head as the nut is rusted completely to the stud.**\n\nIf you're still with me at this point then you're now ready for the bottom row and removal...\n\n# Removing the Manifold - Bottom Row\n\\\nThe work from under the car actually starts at the top because we need to install an engine hoist to hold the engine when the passenger side engine mount is removed. There is no way around this as the engine mount, more specifically the bracket that connects the mount to the engine block, sits right below the exhaust manifold and it is impossible to remove with the bracket still installed.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/w7K2SMT.jpg\n\nI had actually bought an engine hoist from Amazon relatively cheaply for around EUR 60 because I didn't know if the shop had any available on the day I was there. Turns out they did so I used theirs as they are equivalent and good for a weight up to 500kg at least.\n\nOnce it's secured in place we can raise the engine slightly by around 2-3cm or 1 inch and finally raise the car up.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/UVdkFQd.jpg\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/P8oLJg8.jpg\n\nNext up remove the exhaust system and detach it from the manifolds, these screws will be the hardest to losen:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/WlDhPuM.jpg\n\nIn my case I had some work done on the driveshaft at the beginning of the year when they were first losened so this time it took me around 2 minutes. If you have rusty/crusty nuts and bolts there don't even bother with spraying them with anything, instead heat them up with a blowtorch until they're glowing red and then remove them.\n\nBefore removing the exhaust system you need to remove the center structural support beam **the rear one** as the front one of the two stays attached to the exhaust:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/RGfiIlP.jpg\n\nWith that out of the way you can release the exhaust from the transmission exhaust clamp and then simply remove four nuts at the rear and have someone help you to wiggle it out of the manifold and put it down on the floor.\n\nHere the rear exhaust gaskets and old nuts and bolts, I replaced them all.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/e2ovYZs.jpg\n\n*If you have it you need to now remove the reinforcement bar with part number 31 11 1 096431.*\n\nWe can now remove the lower passenger side engine mount nut:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/OLakKcC.jpg\n\nThere is a ground cable attached to the bracket and I recommend to remove the cable from the carside so you can just leave it attached and pull it out altogether!\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/5U05vXB.jpg\n\nFinally remove the 4 bolts that attach the bracket to the engine:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/IuIU9st.jpg\n\nAlso note the 'excellent' condition of the original cat!\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/cyp2ibS.jpg\n\nWith this out of the way...\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/vCwt8so.jpg\n\n...as a final step you should remove the fuel rail engine cover on the topside and pull the post-cat lambda node cables and connectors out so that you don't forget about them later and unnecessarily break or stretch any of the cables.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/rfGSwY5.jpg\n\nHere a glimpse of the workbench by now:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/5gpzEBD.jpg\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/kFjYPbp.jpg\n\nDo a final check on the correct fitment of the engine hoist and leveling of the engine, do not pull it up too far otherwise you'll actually reduce your access to the nuts and bolts:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/Kkn9OVH.jpg\n\nAnd up it goes again:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/9pvXN0S.jpg\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/5oMZ9Rl.jpg\n\nAs you can see there is now relatively free access to the manifolds and their bottom row of nuts that couldn't be reached from above:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/FUxrEen.jpg\n\n**At this point it is 1pm and with a few brakes 5 hours into the job.**\n\n**NOTE: The front manifold (Bank 1, Cylinders 1-3) has to come out first otherwise you're unable to reach the bottom row nuts for the rear manifold and also couldn't extract it even if you loosened that first.**\n\nBelow you can see how I reached and fitted the socket onto the nuts and successfully removed all of them, some with the studs attached:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/HI6Dt2G.jpg\n\nNote above the 'EBERSPAECHER' stamp on the cat housing - original manifolds installed in 1999.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/TUIKSoM.jpg\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/fixQM2J.jpg\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/Qa308BB.jpg\n\nHere is the most forward bottom row nuts:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/s11nyGB.jpg\n\nOnce all the nuts and/or studs are removed you can now wiggle the manifold until you feel it start to move. \n\n**Remember to now pull the lambda node cable down from behind the engine until it is completely loose.**\n\nYou can now pull the manifold slightly to the passenger side off of the studs and down and back out of the car.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/Ann6IdQ.jpg\n\nThis removal gives you good access to the Bank 2 manifold as can be seen here:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/rJov9oM.jpg\n\nFor some reason all the studs stayed in the cylinder head for the front manifold:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/XrX2d0q.jpg\n\nOnto the rear then, below the most rearward studs and nuts, again around cylinder 6 it gets extremely tight and I was only able to use the smallest 1/4\" ratchet with the extended size 11 socket to reach it. The hardest part was actually fitting the socket onto the nut. \n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/1hDi5gd.jpg\n\nNote the socket attached correctly in the lower right of the image, I'm shining a flashlight on the spot as it is also completely dark in that corner.\n\nIt may look inaccessible but you have a clear line of sight onto the entire bottom row if you look up straight from beneath. Even though this design is not ideal they at least thought of that! :)\n\nAnd with the rear one out, both manifolds were extracted by 2:15pm - 6 hours and 15 minutes into the job.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/OdsdZLo.jpg\n\n# Preparing Installation\n\\\nWith both manifolds removed successfully we can now clean the gasket surface area ideally with some microfibre towels and brake cleaner. You can use sand paper but keep it fine as to not accidentally make the surface uneven which would lead to sealing issues later on.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/liaXEag.jpg\n\nI then fitted the new studs from BMW, they have a torx head so you can screw them into the head and a thick extrusion around the gasket area so I just turned them in until they were safely arrested and wouldn't move anymore by hand.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/NKzxe9v.jpg\n\nI don't recommend and don't see a point of replacing any of the old ones, simply clean them and make sure the thread is free from dust, dirt and grime.\n\nWe can now fit our shiny new heat shields courtesy of ELRING:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/NDNAdPC.jpg\n\nLooking marvelous!\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/jqoIxrZ.jpg\n\nAt this point and after another break it is 3pm - 7 hours in.\n\nBefore we're ready for the installation the rear or post-cat lambda nodes need to be fitted as it will be painful to impossible to turn them in with the manifolds installed.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/a5OrIbA.jpg\n\nTo do this I put the old cats into a vice and successfully extracted one of the nodes without any damage but the other one cost me an easy 30 minutes and I had to use two wrenches interlocked to generate enough pull to get anywhere. \n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/4WFMpoN.jpg\n\nEven when I got it loose the node came out with a destroyed thread that wouldn't fit into the new manifolds.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/T49jqSm.jpg\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/INHnovI.jpg\n\nA quick call to the local parts shop and EUR 140 later I was back at the shop with two brand new lambda nodes, one from BOSCH and the other from some other company as they didn't have two of the same brand. Beggars can't be choosers afterall so I went with what they got and was back at 4:45pm - 8 hours and 45 minutes into the job. \n\n## Worse still, the shop closes at 8pm which leaves me 3 hours and 15 minutes to put it **all** back together.\n\\\nJoin me in the next part to find out if I made it and more importantly if the issue was fixed after all the hard work!\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/zppaE6q.jpg\n\nSteem ya later!",
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      "body": "@@ -2590,16 +2590,68 @@\n a nodes%0A\n+- exhaust fumes enter the cabin from the engine bay%0A\n - the fu\n@@ -3253,16 +3253,247 @@\n lace.*%0A%0A\n+Here a video of the sound you can expect at the very end of the manifolds lifetime and this is only idle and minimal throttle, if you get to around 3.000rpm it just sounds dreadful:%0A%0Ahttps://d.tube/#!/v/peterschroeter/b0w4zg1uhlf%0A%0A\n Now if y\n@@ -5331,16 +5331,17 @@\n  two pre\n+-\n  and two\n@@ -5341,24 +5341,25 @@\n and two post\n+-\n  cat. These \n@@ -5487,29 +5487,8 @@\n s.%0A%0A\n-%3E LAMBDA NODE PICTURE\n %0A%0AIn\n",
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      "body": "<center><a href='https://d.tube/#!/v/peterschroeter/b0w4zg1uhlf'><img src='https://snap1.d.tube/ipfs/QmPdNoVh4bsqXxG6TmpkexgmSva1Wnd1QnViUN6EUPcu2B' ></a></center><hr>\n\nSound of a BMW M52 engine with broken/cracked exhaust manifolds leading to bleeding, smoking, blowing of the engine's exhaust side.\n\n<hr><a href='https://d.tube/#!/v/peterschroeter/b0w4zg1uhlf'> ▶️ DTube</a><br /><a href='https://ipfs.io/ipfs/QmVX8h8gneEXuK139CAXsaazvLyxCgLabFwmhLDMEbKSJS'> ▶️ IPFS</a><br />",
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      "author": "peterschroeter",
      "body": "https://i.imgur.com/EfNcQyw.jpg\n\nWelcome back Steemians! This year I'm doing my workshop diary in reverse, starting with the most recent repair and going back to the beginning as I haven't had a chance to write down much of anything regarding ongoing repair and maintenance on my (still) daily driver '99 BMW 320i with the venerable M52 straight 6 engine.\n\nToday I'll take you on a tour of one of the most dreaded and painful repairs you could do on this platform which is replacing the exhaust manifolds with built in catalytic converters. Most shops will turn away, chase you off the yard or charge you a cool 2 grand which could possibly go up to 4 grand or outright suggest crushing the car - needless to say none of those options work for me.\n\n**Most shops and mechanics (including my own mechanic who I've built several cars with) outright refuse to do this because there's a risk of one or more of the exhaust studs breaking off during disassembly. If this happens in the wrong place the cylinder head has to be removed in order to retrieve the broken stud and replace it with a new one! This would also require to remove the timing chain and disassemble almost the entire engine!**\n\nSo let's do try to avoid that and get it fixed - afterall, who'd want to crush one of the most beautiful BMWs ever made?\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/DLMszEI.jpg\n\nStill any ownership experience asks for some sort of economics and spending that much money on a replacement of an exhaust seems excessive to say the least so I got into the topic and prepared accordingly. \n\nLet's get into it shall we?\n\n# The Issue & Preperations\n\\\nHere's our culprit:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/ep5SVD6.jpg\n\nLooks fine you might say and it does but the issue is mostly invisble - but not inaudible. This engine uses two exhaust manifolds with built in catalytic converters. Below you can see the new ones I bought from a company in the UK which I highly recommend called 'autoteile-classics-shop' which you can find on ebay UK and Germany.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/INHnovI.jpg\n\nOvertime the catalytic converter casing deteriorates and eventually rips open but usually below the outer shell so it is not immediately visible. Initially you will perceive a classic leaking exhaust sound, increasingly leading to pops and ever louder blowing sounds until the engine sounds like an old and broken airplane. Worse still, the car will not be able to pass emmission tests because the exhaust is not cleaned appropriately and a circle of doom starts to unfold:\n\n- air is leaking into the exhaust manifold which over time kills the pre cat lambda nodes\n- the fuel air mixture calculation based on the lambda nodes is off and leads to less power or higher consumption or both\n- the post cat lambda nodes eventually fail as well\n- the engine, specifically the ignition and fuel system is put under increased strain\n- all kinds of follow up issues are to be expected\n\n*Long story short, you cannot delay or avoid this repair it has to be done and it has to be done right. Some people weld the exhaust this is only a temporary fix as it will leak elsewhere shortly thereafter. Due to the circle of doom the longer you delay the more you'll end up having to replace.*\n\nNow if you look online you will find maybe 3 videos in total of people who have done this (worldwide) so needless to say this is either a very rarely documented or rarely attempted job. One of the most useful is from youtuber '50skid':\n\nhttps://www.youtube.com/c/50sKidAuto/videos\n\nGuy is a genius, mind you he's done the job **without a lift**. Something I would not have even thought about so huge respect to him!\n\nI did find a few blog posts of people and started the parts hunting, next to the manifolds themselves you'll definitely need these parts:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/SAhkzZr.jpg\n\n- exhaust manifold gasket (2x) both identical\n- mainfold bolts and nuts (16x each)\n- flat gasket and nuts for the exhaust system (4x total)\n\nDefinitely test fitting before going to the shop:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/4QxMscs.jpg\n\nAnd do a general fitting test with the parts as they go onto the engine if possible to avoid surprises when under the car:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/CUL2xx3.jpg\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/xbbjxJr.jpg\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/iecYRFC.jpg\n\nMy manifolds actually came with all the nuts and gaskets but to be sure I bought them all original from BMW since I intend to only do this job once:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/Utb1nSA.jpg\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/XSuEcZ4.jpg\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/B8QTcHS.jpg\n\nOne thing I forgot is that the original manifolds come with threaded studs whereas the replacements ones come with bolts and nuts so if I had to do it again I'd buy 4 bolts and nuts from BMW as the ones that came with the manifolds were very long and so handy to install:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/atsFGaH.jpg\n\nYou can see the left side manifold has threaded studs and the right side requires bolts from the factory - not sure why they did that probably for fitment purposes at the assembly line.\n\nNext to these parts you'll probably need 4 new Lambda nodes, two pre and two post cat. These parts can be fitted later as well but especially the post cat ones should be done prior to installation for ease of access.\n\n> LAMBDA NODE PICTURE\n\nIn addition to the parts you'll need the following tools, this is easily the most important part of the job as without these it will be either painful or very lengthy or simply impossible:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/G1ytnNN.jpg\n\nNext to these you'll need some special sprays I bought off of Amazon:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/hxT6MEc.jpg\n\nSpecifically this one:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/d0KAlrV.jpg\n\n50skid actually recommended it and it is by far **the single most useful** losening anti rust spray you could every buy!\n\nA week before the actual operation I started spraying the nuts or at least the area around them as far as it's accessible from above/below with everything still installed with this stuff from LIQUI MOLY:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/wOxay9L.jpg\n\nI don't know how much it eased the process in the end but the PT Blaster is definitely more powerful and intense which you can also smell when using it! \n\n*Total cost for parts, tools, manifolds with cats and lubricants was around EUR 650 with the manifolds making up the bulk of it at EUR 400 - quite steep but also miles away from the shop estimate or the value of the car in addition to the fact that no one actually wants to do this for any money at all.*\n\nWith all the parts and tools ready...let's get it on shall we?\n\n# Removing the Manifold - Making Room\n\\\nhttps://i.imgur.com/4r6Ig5Z.jpg\n\nBefore we get to the actual removal process we need to make some room first. The washer bottle on the lower left has to go. Mounted with a size 10 nut it is easily removed, ideally drain it before.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/MoBeVYn.jpg\n\nThe AC compressor can stay in, some people recommend removing it but I actually didn't find it in the way much. That said, the AC line from the compressor to the valve near the firewall definitely has to go. So it's on to evacuating the AC system:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/Z3ASKop.jpg\n\nI always had a weak spot for these little R2 units:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/Vvovzec.jpg\n\nOnce the evacuation is done remove the fillister screw on the firewall side (below the dark line):\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/frbueNw.jpg\n\nAnd also the AC Compressor side screw and remove the line:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/R2qbiKG.jpg\n\n**As we'll remove the entire top row of manifold nuts from the topside engine bay we also have to remove the cabin air filter housing, before you can remove it release the cable canal cover and extract the two cables.**\n\nTo make it even more accessible I also removed the valve cover.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/xRGcZiQ.jpg\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/2qD1VH8.jpg\n\n**Finally remove and mark (very important so you don't mix them up later) the pre cat lambda nodes that run along the edge of the cylinderhead above the manifolds and below the valve cover:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/eCNKK8P.jpg\n\nI simply put one cable tie on the bank 1 node and 2 on the bank 2 node, before you get confused always remember cylinder count starts at the front passenger side so in this case the engine runs 1-2-3-4-5-6 from front to back. Firing order is 16-34-25 ;).\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/rtHIDS0.jpg\n\nNow this is about as much room as we're going to get in terms of access from the top, now would be a good time to put the PT Blaster to good use by folding up the exhaust heat shields upwards and 'blasting' all the nuts you can see or find and then enjoying a hot coffee before commencing.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/yy4QAnb.jpg\n\nI had the car up on the lift raised from the ground slightly to have better access and to save my back from breaking :).\n\n# Removing the Manifold - Topside\n\\\nFor the next 4-8 hours these 4 sockets and extensions will be your best friend:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/Fj3TW1a.jpg\n\n- 1/4\" long size 11 socket\n- 1/4\" short size 11 socket\n- 3/8\" short size 11 socket\n- 1/4\" short and long extensions\n- 3/8\" short and medium extensions\n\nI used these mostly with two ratchets:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/k1gbDKm.jpg\n\n- small 1/4\" ratchet\n- 3/8\" ratchet with flexible head and variable extension\n- 3/8\" ratchet\n\nThe flexible head extendable ratchet was easily the most useful and I don't think I could have done it without it.\n\nAt this point I started using my rugged Blackview phone (which I can highly recommend by the way) the way it was intended to be used:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/zkNiNib.jpg\n\nThis thing was such a life saver! Using the permanent flash in combination with the video camera helped me ensuring that the socket sits firmly on the nut!\n\n**Remember the most important point here is to NOT rip off any of the studs so correct fitment is key here.**\n\nUnfortunately for the top row photos I had the flashlight and the flash on which lead to severe overexposure but you get the drift of things below:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/AUPaTL4.jpg\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/z7vU0ha.jpg\n\nAs you can see here some of the nuts will actually come out with the studs attached so that you're actually screwing the stud out of the cylinder head instead of the nut off of the stud, that is fine as we'll be inserting new studs come reinstallation:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/I6foCCu.jpg\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/7RutDdW.jpg\n\nAs you get closer to the firewall and around cylinder 6 things will get really tight:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/Tpnph0o.jpg\n\n- 3/8\" flexi ratchet\n- small extension\n- short size 11 socket\n\nWith this combination I got to all of the top row nuts and even some on the bottom row:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/n2Oscv6.jpg\n\nAs you can see a number of studs came out but at this point I was *delighted* that none had caused me any undue stress in terms of not moving or ripping. Here my results at 11:30am which was 3 1/2 hours into the operation:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/sobEBbl.jpg\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/ejcmhkV.jpg\n\nI also found that one of the studs didn't have a nut attached, it looks like this has been the case for a good 10 years at least:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/5hzQNwO.jpg\n\nEither it fell off or was never really attached?!\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/nxVXjPs.jpg\n\nAll in all I give credit to the PT Blaster as every nut except for one almost instantly clicked with minimum force applied.\n\n**It is a bit of a feel issue when you first start to apply pressure to see if more pressure should be applied or if you want to put some more blaster or rust remover on it and give it a few minutes before going back. In my case and most of what I read online BMW studs actually do not tend to break that easily so most of the times when the initial release is harder to achieve, use a bigger/longer ratchet and give it a good nudge, most likely it is just the stud releasing from the head as the nut is rusted completely to the stud.**\n\nIf you're still with me at this point then you're now ready for the bottom row and removal...\n\n# Removing the Manifold - Bottom Row\n\\\nThe work from under the car actually starts at the top because we need to install an engine hoist to hold the engine when the passenger side engine mount is removed. There is no way around this as the engine mount, more specifically the bracket that connects the mount to the engine block, sits right below the exhaust manifold and it is impossible to remove with the bracket still installed.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/w7K2SMT.jpg\n\nI had actually bought an engine hoist from Amazon relatively cheaply for around EUR 60 because I didn't know if the shop had any available on the day I was there. Turns out they did so I used theirs as they are equivalent and good for a weight up to 500kg at least.\n\nOnce it's secured in place we can raise the engine slightly by around 2-3cm or 1 inch and finally raise the car up.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/UVdkFQd.jpg\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/P8oLJg8.jpg\n\nNext up remove the exhaust system and detach it from the manifolds, these screws will be the hardest to losen:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/WlDhPuM.jpg\n\nIn my case I had some work done on the driveshaft at the beginning of the year when they were first losened so this time it took me around 2 minutes. If you have rusty/crusty nuts and bolts there don't even bother with spraying them with anything, instead heat them up with a blowtorch until they're glowing red and then remove them.\n\nBefore removing the exhaust system you need to remove the center structural support beam **the rear one** as the front one of the two stays attached to the exhaust:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/RGfiIlP.jpg\n\nWith that out of the way you can release the exhaust from the transmission exhaust clamp and then simply remove four nuts at the rear and have someone help you to wiggle it out of the manifold and put it down on the floor.\n\nHere the rear exhaust gaskets and old nuts and bolts, I replaced them all.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/e2ovYZs.jpg\n\n*If you have it you need to now remove the reinforcement bar with part number 31 11 1 096431.*\n\nWe can now remove the lower passenger side engine mount nut:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/OLakKcC.jpg\n\nThere is a ground cable attached to the bracket and I recommend to remove the cable from the carside so you can just leave it attached and pull it out altogether!\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/5U05vXB.jpg\n\nFinally remove the 4 bolts that attach the bracket to the engine:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/IuIU9st.jpg\n\nAlso note the 'excellent' condition of the original cat!\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/cyp2ibS.jpg\n\nWith this out of the way...\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/vCwt8so.jpg\n\n...as a final step you should remove the fuel rail engine cover on the topside and pull the post-cat lambda node cables and connectors out so that you don't forget about them later and unnecessarily break or stretch any of the cables.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/rfGSwY5.jpg\n\nHere a glimpse of the workbench by now:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/5gpzEBD.jpg\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/kFjYPbp.jpg\n\nDo a final check on the correct fitment of the engine hoist and leveling of the engine, do not pull it up too far otherwise you'll actually reduce your access to the nuts and bolts:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/Kkn9OVH.jpg\n\nAnd up it goes again:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/9pvXN0S.jpg\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/5oMZ9Rl.jpg\n\nAs you can see there is now relatively free access to the manifolds and their bottom row of nuts that couldn't be reached from above:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/FUxrEen.jpg\n\n**At this point it is 1pm and with a few brakes 5 hours into the job.**\n\n**NOTE: The front manifold (Bank 1, Cylinders 1-3) has to come out first otherwise you're unable to reach the bottom row nuts for the rear manifold and also couldn't extract it even if you loosened that first.**\n\nBelow you can see how I reached and fitted the socket onto the nuts and successfully removed all of them, some with the studs attached:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/HI6Dt2G.jpg\n\nNote above the 'EBERSPAECHER' stamp on the cat housing - original manifolds installed in 1999.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/TUIKSoM.jpg\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/fixQM2J.jpg\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/Qa308BB.jpg\n\nHere is the most forward bottom row nuts:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/s11nyGB.jpg\n\nOnce all the nuts and/or studs are removed you can now wiggle the manifold until you feel it start to move. \n\n**Remember to now pull the lambda node cable down from behind the engine until it is completely loose.**\n\nYou can now pull the manifold slightly to the passenger side off of the studs and down and back out of the car.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/Ann6IdQ.jpg\n\nThis removal gives you good access to the Bank 2 manifold as can be seen here:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/rJov9oM.jpg\n\nFor some reason all the studs stayed in the cylinder head for the front manifold:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/XrX2d0q.jpg\n\nOnto the rear then, below the most rearward studs and nuts, again around cylinder 6 it gets extremely tight and I was only able to use the smallest 1/4\" ratchet with the extended size 11 socket to reach it. The hardest part was actually fitting the socket onto the nut. \n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/1hDi5gd.jpg\n\nNote the socket attached correctly in the lower right of the image, I'm shining a flashlight on the spot as it is also completely dark in that corner.\n\nIt may look inaccessible but you have a clear line of sight onto the entire bottom row if you look up straight from beneath. Even though this design is not ideal they at least thought of that! :)\n\nAnd with the rear one out, both manifolds were extracted by 2:15pm - 6 hours and 15 minutes into the job.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/OdsdZLo.jpg\n\n# Preparing Installation\n\\\nWith both manifolds removed successfully we can now clean the gasket surface area ideally with some microfibre towels and brake cleaner. You can use sand paper but keep it fine as to not accidentally make the surface uneven which would lead to sealing issues later on.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/liaXEag.jpg\n\nI then fitted the new studs from BMW, they have a torx head so you can screw them into the head and a thick extrusion around the gasket area so I just turned them in until they were safely arrested and wouldn't move anymore by hand.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/NKzxe9v.jpg\n\nI don't recommend and don't see a point of replacing any of the old ones, simply clean them and make sure the thread is free from dust, dirt and grime.\n\nWe can now fit our shiny new heat shields courtesy of ELRING:\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/NDNAdPC.jpg\n\nLooking marvelous!\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/jqoIxrZ.jpg\n\nAt this point and after another break it is 3pm - 7 hours in.\n\nBefore we're ready for the installation the rear or post-cat lambda nodes need to be fitted as it will be painful to impossible to turn them in with the manifolds installed.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/a5OrIbA.jpg\n\nTo do this I put the old cats into a vice and successfully extracted one of the nodes without any damage but the other one cost me an easy 30 minutes and I had to use two wrenches interlocked to generate enough pull to get anywhere. \n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/4WFMpoN.jpg\n\nEven when I got it loose the node came out with a destroyed thread that wouldn't fit into the new manifolds.\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/T49jqSm.jpg\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/INHnovI.jpg\n\nA quick call to the local parts shop and EUR 140 later I was back at the shop with two brand new lambda nodes, one from BOSCH and the other from some other company as they didn't have two of the same brand. Beggars can't be choosers afterall so I went with what they got and was back at 4:45pm - 8 hours and 45 minutes into the job. \n\n## Worse still, the shop closes at 8pm which leaves me 3 hours and 15 minutes to put it **all** back together.\n\\\nJoin me in the next part to find out if I made it and more importantly if the issue was fixed after all the hard work!\n\nhttps://i.imgur.com/zppaE6q.jpg\n\nSteem ya later!",
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