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      "body": "Congratulations @pawsitivepup! You received a personal award!\n\n<table><tr><td>https://steemitimages.com/70x70/http://steemitboard.com/@pawsitivepup/birthday2.png</td><td>Happy Birthday! - You are on the Steem blockchain for 2 years!</td></tr></table>\n\n<sub>_You can view [your badges on your Steem Board](https://steemitboard.com/@pawsitivepup) and compare to others on the [Steem Ranking](https://steemitboard.com/ranking/index.php?name=pawsitivepup)_</sub>\n\n\n**Do not miss the last post from @steemitboard:**\n<table><tr><td><a href=\"https://steemit.com/steemfest/@steemitboard/the-new-steemfest-badge-is-ready\"><img src=\"https://steemitimages.com/64x128/https://cdn.steemitimages.com/DQmRUkELn2Fd13pWFkmWU2wBMMx39EBX5V3cHBEZ2d7f3Ve/image.png\"></a></td><td><a href=\"https://steemit.com/steemfest/@steemitboard/the-new-steemfest-badge-is-ready\">The new SteemFest⁴  badge is ready</a></td></tr></table>\n\n###### [Vote for @Steemitboard as a witness](https://v2.steemconnect.com/sign/account-witness-vote?witness=steemitboard&approve=1) to get one more award and increased upvotes!",
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      "body": "Are you still around?\n\nI have 2 Puppies that I want to do service training with. I need some direction and maybe a good book or video to start with.  Oh, look at that, a website http://www.thinkpawsitivepup.com/\n\nI will start there.\n\nThanks",
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      "body": "Would still love to do some more service training with this guy. I swear I think he has it in him. He just needed to grow up a little.\n\n![](https://steemitimages.com/DQmYg5YAdkDHVAsVvAuM8SAJ439g7XQH5QLGh1TyJmA9kFH/image.png)",
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      "body": "Those of us who work in rescue can vouch wholeheartedly for the info in this article. Yes, these work! And work well. Rescue is a stressful, sometimes unhappy place for dogs. Some take it harder than others. But Kong puzzles like this get little dog minds off the sad stuff and onto something more fun, like *DINNER!*",
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      "title": "HOW TO STUFF and USE A KONG or KONG WOBBLER",
      "body": "@@ -1830,16 +1830,24 @@\n rcise.%0A%0A\n+%3Ccenter%3E\n https://\n@@ -1866,16 +1866,57 @@\n I1isnvPQ\n+%0AVideo by SIMPATICO Dog Training%3C/center%3E\n %0A%0A## SO \n@@ -6830,16 +6830,141 @@\n epup.com\n+%0AAll writing/images/videos contained in this article are the work of think PAWsitive Pup Dog Training unless otherwise noted.\n %3C/center\n",
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      "parent_permlink": "education",
      "author": "pawsitivepup",
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      "title": "SERVICE DOG CANDIDATE APTITUDE TESTING",
      "body": "<center>[![IMG_0154.jpg](https://s1.postimg.org/1cgl9pxwbz/IMG_0154.jpg)](https://postimg.org/image/88l8twh6gb/)</center>\n\nNot all puppies/dogs have what it takes for the rigors of service work.  It is estimated that only an average of 30% of dogs who begin service training are able to complete it.\n\nTo give you the best chance of having a successful partner, there are several things to look for including aspects of drive, biddability, intelligence, problem solving and human connection.\n\nI have developed a 21 exercise test based off of a combination of the Volhard test, Puppy Culture and Puppy Prodigies to give some insight when trying to choose a candidate.  I offer litter temperament testing or testing just for an individual candidate.  It looks at what makes these guys tick, what peaks their interests, what they need to work on and how they cope with problem solving.\n\nAreas covered include:\n\n### CONFIDENCE:\nTunnel\nWobble Board\nBall/Bottle Pool\n\n### CONNECTION:\nPeople Greeting\nRedirection from Distraction\nFollow Me Engagement\n\n### TOUCH SENSITIVITIES:\nGeneral Handling - ears, eyes, mouth, feet, tail\nPositional Changes - mild restraint, supported on back, elevated\n\n### STARTLE RESPONSE:\nVisual - umbrella opening + flapping material\nSound - sudden sound - metal + firework/storm/vacuum\n\n### DRIVE\nRetrieve\nFlirt Pole\n\n### PROBLEM SOLVING\nShell Game\nFood Puzzle\n\n### BODY AWARENESS\nNose Target\nPaws Up\n\n### OBEDIENCE\nBack Up\nKennel Up\n\n### TASKS\nFlip the Switch\nZipper Pull\nTurn on Taplight\n\nWhat I am looking for is NOT completed behaviors but when introduced to a new situation or obstacle - how does the pup or dog learn, how eager are they to try new things,  how aware are they of their surroundings, how connected are they to people vs the environment and how do they like to problem solve.\n\nIt is by no means a precise science, nor can it - or any test - guarantee that the pup/dog you choose will make it as a service dog.  It does however increase your chances of finding the right combination of energy level, confidence, compatible training style and partner connection.\n\n<center>[![tpplogo3.jpg](https://s1.postimg.org/3wmfmd7xlr/tpplogo3.jpg)](https://postimg.org/image/665g5uso2j/)\nhttp://www.thinkpawsitivepup.com</center>",
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      "body": "<center>[![IMG_0154.jpg](https://s1.postimg.org/1cgl9pxwbz/IMG_0154.jpg)](https://postimg.org/image/88l8twh6gb/)</center>\n\nNot all puppies/dogs have what it takes for the rigors of service work.  It is estimated that only an average of 30% of dogs who begin service training are able to complete it.\n\nTo give you the best chance of having a successful partner, there are several things to look for including aspects of drive, biddability, intelligence, problem solving and human connection.\n\nI have developed a 21 exercise test based off of a combination of the Volhard test, Puppy Culture and Puppy Prodigies to give some insight when trying to choose a candidate.  I offer litter temperament testing or testing just for an individual candidate.  It looks at what makes these guys tick, what peaks their interests, what they need to work on and how they cope with problem solving.\n\nAreas covered include:\n\n### CONFIDENCE:\nTunnel\nWobble Board\nBall/Bottle Pool\n\n### CONNECTION:\nPeople Greeting\nRedirection from Distraction\nFollow Me Engagement\n\n### TOUCH SENSITIVITIES:\nGeneral Handling - ears, eyes, mouth, feet, tail\nPositional Changes - mild restraint, supported on back, elevated\n\n### STARTLE RESPONSE:\nVisual - umbrella opening + flapping material\nSound - sudden sound - metal + firework/storm/vacuum\n\n### DRIVE\nRetrieve\nFlirt Pole\n\n### PROBLEM SOLVING\nShell Game\nFood Puzzle\n\n### BODY AWARENESS\nNose Target\nPaws Up\n\n### OBEDIENCE\nBack Up\nKennel Up\n\n### TASKS\nFlip the Switch\nZipper Pull\nTurn on Taplight\n\nWhat I am looking for is NOT completed behaviors but when introduced to a new situation or obstacle - how does the pup or dog learn, how eager are they to try new things,  how aware are they of their surroundings, how connected are they to people vs the environment and how do they like to problem solve.\n\nIt is by no means a precise science, nor can it - or any test - guarantee that the pup/dog you choose will make it as a service dog.  It does however increase your chances of finding the right combination of energy level, confidence, compatible training style and partner connection.\n\n<center>[![tpplogo3.jpg](https://s1.postimg.org/3wmfmd7xlr/tpplogo3.jpg)](https://postimg.org/image/665g5uso2j/)\nhttp://www.thinkpawsitivepup.com</center>",
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      "author": "pawsitivepup",
      "permlink": "7bslhw-how-to-stuff-and-use-a-kong-or-kong-wobbler",
      "title": "HOW TO STUFF and USE A KONG or KONG WOBBLER",
      "body": "<center>![Fotor_148480505891353.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmTTs8WgsJUGj1oR2GrECpugqf51mmhGNS8CvoUAmLUEcr/Fotor_148480505891353.jpg)</center>\n\nAs I was prepping KONG toys for the furkids,  I realized not everyone knows about these great options for Doggie Brain Games and Mental Stimulation exercises.\n\n## WHAT IS A KONG EXACTLY?\nKONG itself is a company that makes a great range of toys for dogs but many people refer to other types of similar toys by the same name. Generally these are made of rubber or a similar polymer and you can fill them with kibble or treats for a dog to get out.\n\n## WHY WOULD YOU STUFF ONE?\nStuffable toys like KONGS can serve many purposes:\n\n* **Mental Stimulation** - dogs that are easily bored, hyper or need daily challenges can really benefit from this type of enrichment.\n* **Slow Down** - some dogs eat far too quickly and inhale their food and this is one of many great options to slow them down, reducing the chances of complications like choking or bloat.\n* **Confidence Building** - winning at this game can provide dogs that are insecure or anxious with a well deserved confidence boost for interacting with their environment.\n* **Crate Destressor** - some dogs are stressed by their handlers leaving for the day and giving them a puzzle like this is a great way to take their mind off of the act of the handler leaving and refocus it to a positive - dogs with anxiety disorders may not be able to redirect, but a dog that is simply fussy can often come to see this \"prize\" as a real highlight and begin to look forward to their daily crate time. You can even tie or hang it from the top of the crate to increase the difficulty even more.\n* **Variety** - This type of toy breaks up the day for any dog and gives you a chance to offer different types of food/reward in a controlled exercise.\n\nhttps://youtu.be/LwZI1isnvPQ\n\n## SO HOW DO YOU USE IT?   WHAT DO YOU USE TO STUFF IT?\nThere are lots of recipes that you can use,  and a lot of Kong type toys, but the most basic process is to use it to feed meals with basic kibble and a stopper of something like peanut butter, canned dog food, cream cheese or canned pumpkin. Having said that, I know people who use banana, mashed potato or even raw meat pieces to fill the end. It depends on what your dog finds rewarding!\n\nYou can also mix things into the kibble part itself like dry treats,  apple or carrot slices or cheese cubes (but I will say the cheese tends to clump the kibble together and if your dog isn't determined enough it can just frustrate them).\n\n<center>[![Fotor_148480544249813.jpg](https://s1.postimg.org/1z1gn95srz/Fotor_148480544249813.jpg)](https://postimg.org/image/8rmi9pw06j/)</center>\n\n### GETTING SETUP\n* Toys to Fill \n* Kibble \n* Peanut Butter\n* Cream Cheese\n\n### OPTIONAL EXTRAS\n* Treats \n* Apple or Carrot \n* Cheese \n\nPutting down a section of cling film makes this much easier.   It stops anything falling out and creating a mess in your freezer. \n\n## WHY FREEZE?  \nA frozen Kong lasts longer, presents more of a challenge and can help teething puppies gums feel better. \n\n## FILLING\nIf the toy has a small hole on one end,  like a standard Kong,  you will not need to do anything except fill it with kibble and a stopper of your choice. \n\nIf you are using another type of toy like the Kong Dental or Dogzilla toys,  with a larger hole on both ends,  you want to cover one of the holes with your filler first. I am using peanut butter or cream cheese here. Once you fill that hole,  turn the toy upside down on the cling film and fill with kibble.   (If you are using apple or carrot,  put that in first then fill the kibble to the top around it. \n\n<center>![Fotor_14848055710338.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmT9J2giUUsHzT9sLM7sBMBuB4QV6ua87g4fR6cZhTPcLk/Fotor_14848055710338.jpg)</center>\n\n**Taking too long or making a mess with the kibble?**  If it is small enough kibble,  use a funnel... \n**Don't have a funnel?**  Take a sheet of paper and roll into a funnel-like shape... \n**Don't have a piece of paper?**  Ummmmm... That is probably beyond the purview of this article. \n\nSo you have the Kong full - now just cap the remaining hole with your choice of filling, pull the cling film up/around it and freeze overnight. \n\n<center>![Fotor_148480564021611.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmTR5ACt3a5xHwBpP65eUVuNec8EJ4HcJBBLnw24Q7E7te/Fotor_148480564021611.jpg)</center>\n\n<center>![Fotor_14848056906845.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmbpYdxrmBonYTwHjVY6UQp7wAnCzJ4evkmzhMMYJqBPZm/Fotor_14848056906845.jpg)</center>\n\nYou don't need to let them thaw first - the whole point is to have the dogs work for it so give it to them straight from the freezer. Check the specifics of each toy, but in general, hot soapy water is enough to clean them or a occasional run through the dishwasher is fine for most of them. \n\n<center>![Fotor_148480582279372.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmYyjc1K85h4TEirywN9RJui99KSHGdVA4RJ9GsWf1uvf6/Fotor_148480582279372.jpg)</center>\n\n\n## KONG WOBBLERS\nWobblers are like giant Weeble Wobbles - they weeble and they wobble and they throw food around...but that's half the fun!  Unlike the other KONG type toys, these are a hard plastic with a weighted bottom, not rubber. \n\n<center>![Fotor_148484992868323.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmRuAMCWzSTT1uJidXrVEWriTJy2JiqagqWkXQsA4gs5hM/Fotor_148484992868323.jpg)</center>\n\nAll you need to do for this is twist off the bottom and fill the toy with kibble. They do come in a few sizes (the pink and blue are Puppy ones).  Make sure your kibble is small enough to come out of the hole otherwise you get a frustrated doggie slamming the toy into your walls! \n\n<center>![Fotor_148485000641014.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmVExLm48oerNn2BUU9nGRw1dBcDvoFa97FdtjAdxR7brA/Fotor_148485000641014.jpg)</center>\n\nNormally you wouldn't add anything over the hole in these but some dogs struggle with how to get started. When I first gave this to a recent boarding pup, he looked at me like - \"What am I supposed to do with that\"?  LOL   I added some peanut butter to give him a headstart and after the first session, he didn't need any filler - just his kibble. \n\nThen there are other dogs, like Barrow here that get it straight away. \nhttps://youtu.be/qJYWFJcEW6k?list=PLXT5EIPGpVOvs9KzExhK_yviMqyPE0UHy\n\nEither of these options can be a great way to help your dog learn some problem solving skills, keep them entertained for awhile and offer a novel approach to feeding time. They'll thank you for it!\n\n<center>![Fotor_148480577424676.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmXZsTK69zsa6Mp2YSzA6VRGkWHhekbbF3Y78Dfhy3mWSY/Fotor_148480577424676.jpg)</center>\n\n<center>![tpplogo3.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmQrFjFCUET2JzQGwgV4rTfvn7QrsfmoY1W69nJMVnetuL/tpplogo3.jpg)\nhttp://www.thinkpawsitivepup.com</center>\n",
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      "permlink": "how-to-stuff-and-use-a-kong-or-kong-wobbler",
      "title": "HOW TO STUFF and USE A KONG or KONG WOBBLER",
      "body": "<center>![Fotor_148480505891353.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmTTs8WgsJUGj1oR2GrECpugqf51mmhGNS8CvoUAmLUEcr/Fotor_148480505891353.jpg)</center>\n\nAs I was prepping KONG toys for the furkids,  I realized not everyone knows about these great options for Doggie Brain Games and Mental Stimulation exercises.\n\n## WHAT IS A KONG EXACTLY?\nKONG itself is a company that makes a great range of toys for dogs but many people refer to other types of similar toys by the same name. Generally these are made of rubber or a similar polymer and you can fill them with kibble or treats for a dog to get out.\n\n## WHY WOULD YOU STUFF ONE?\nStuffable toys like KONGS can serve many purposes:\n\n* **Mental Stimulation** - dogs that are easily bored, hyper or need daily challenges can really benefit from this type of enrichment.\n* **Slow Down** - some dogs eat far too quickly and inhale their food and this is one of many great options to slow them down, reducing the chances of complications like choking or bloat.\n* **Confidence Building** - winning at this game can provide dogs that are insecure or anxious with a well deserved confidence boost for interacting with their environment.\n* **Crate Destressor** - some dogs are stressed by their handlers leaving for the day and giving them a puzzle like this is a great way to take their mind off of the act of the handler leaving and refocus it to a positive - dogs with anxiety disorders may not be able to redirect, but a dog that is simply fussy can often come to see this \"prize\" as a real highlight and begin to look forward to their daily crate time. You can even tie or hang it from the top of the crate to increase the difficulty even more.\n* **Variety** - This type of toy breaks up the day for any dog and gives you a chance to offer different types of food/reward in a controlled exercise.\n\nhttps://youtu.be/LwZI1isnvPQ\n\n## SO HOW DO YOU USE IT? WHAT DO YOU USE TO STUFF IT?\nThere are lots of recipes that you can use,  and a lot of Kong type toys, but the most basic process is to use it to feed meals with basic kibble and a stopper of something like peanut butter, canned dog food, cream cheese or canned pumpkin. Having said that, I know people who use banana, mashed potato or even raw meat pieces to fill the end. It depends on what your dog finds rewarding!\n\nYou can also mix things into the kibble part itself like dry treats,  apple or carrot slices or cheese cubes (but I will say the cheese tends to clump the kibble together and if your dog isn't determined enough it can just frustrate them).\n\n<center>[![Fotor_148480544249813.jpg](https://s1.postimg.org/1z1gn95srz/Fotor_148480544249813.jpg)](https://postimg.org/image/8rmi9pw06j/)</center>\n\n### GETTING SETUP\n* Toys to Fill \n* Kibble \n* Peanut Butter\n* Cream Cheese\n\n### OPTIONAL EXTRAS\n* Treats \n* Apple or Carrot \n* Cheese \n\nPutting down a section of cling film makes this much easier.   It stops anything falling out and creating a mess in your freezer. \n\n## WHY FREEZE?  \nA frozen Kong lasts longer, presents more of a challenge and can help teething puppies gums feel better. \n\n## FILLING\nIf the toy has a small hole on one end,  like a standard Kong,  you will not need to do anything except fill it with kibble and a stopper of your choice. \n\nIf you are using another type of toy like the Kong Dental or Dogzilla toys,  with a larger hole on both ends,  you want to cover one of the holes with your filler first. I am using peanut butter or cream cheese here. Once you fill that hole,  turn the toy upside down on the cling film and fill with kibble.   (If you are using apple or carrot,  put that in first then fill the kibble to the top around it. \n\n<center>![Fotor_14848055710338.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmT9J2giUUsHzT9sLM7sBMBuB4QV6ua87g4fR6cZhTPcLk/Fotor_14848055710338.jpg)</center>\n\n**Taking too long or making a mess with the kibble?**  If it is small enough kibble,  use a funnel... \n**Don't have a funnel?**  Take a sheet of paper and roll into a funnel-like shape... \n**Don't have a piece of paper?**  Ummmmm... That is probably beyond the purview of this article. \n\nSo you have the Kong full - now just cap the remaining hole with your choice of filling, pull the cling film up/around it and freeze overnight. \n\n<center>![Fotor_148480564021611.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmTR5ACt3a5xHwBpP65eUVuNec8EJ4HcJBBLnw24Q7E7te/Fotor_148480564021611.jpg)</center>\n\n<center>![Fotor_14848056906845.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmbpYdxrmBonYTwHjVY6UQp7wAnCzJ4evkmzhMMYJqBPZm/Fotor_14848056906845.jpg)</center>\n\nYou don't need to let them thaw first - the whole point is to have the dogs work for it so give it to them straight from the freezer. Check the specifics of each toy, but in general, hot soapy water is enough to clean them or a occasional run through the dishwasher is fine for most of them. \n\n<center>![Fotor_148480582279372.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmYyjc1K85h4TEirywN9RJui99KSHGdVA4RJ9GsWf1uvf6/Fotor_148480582279372.jpg)</center>\n\n\n## KONG WOBBLERS\nWobblers are like giant Weeble Wobbles - they weeble and they wobble and they throw food around...but that's half the fun!  Unlike the other KONG type toys, these are a hard plastic with a weighted bottom, not rubber. \n\n<center>![Fotor_148484992868323.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmRuAMCWzSTT1uJidXrVEWriTJy2JiqagqWkXQsA4gs5hM/Fotor_148484992868323.jpg)</center>\n\nAll you need to do for this is twist off the bottom and fill the toy with kibble. They do come in a few sizes (the pink and blue are Puppy ones).  Make sure your kibble is small enough to come out of the hole otherwise you get a frustrated doggie slamming the toy into your walls! \n\n<center>![Fotor_148485000641014.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmVExLm48oerNn2BUU9nGRw1dBcDvoFa97FdtjAdxR7brA/Fotor_148485000641014.jpg)</center>\n\nNormally you wouldn't add anything over the hole in these but some dogs struggle with how to get started. When I first gave this to a recent boarding pup, he looked at me like - \"What am I supposed to do with that\"?  LOL   I added some peanut butter to give him a headstart and after the first session, he didn't need any filler - just his kibble. \n\nThen there are other dogs, like Barrow here that get it straight away. \nhttps://youtu.be/qJYWFJcEW6k?list=PLXT5EIPGpVOvs9KzExhK_yviMqyPE0UHy\n\nEither of these options can be a great way to help your dog learn some problem solving skills, keep them entertained for awhile and offer a novel approach to feeding time. They'll thank you for it!\n\n<center>![Fotor_148480577424676.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmXZsTK69zsa6Mp2YSzA6VRGkWHhekbbF3Y78Dfhy3mWSY/Fotor_148480577424676.jpg)</center>\n\n<center>![tpplogo3.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmQrFjFCUET2JzQGwgV4rTfvn7QrsfmoY1W69nJMVnetuL/tpplogo3.jpg)\nhttp://www.thinkpawsitivepup.com</center>",
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      "body": "## GO TO MAT / PLATFORM WORK\nThis is a skill I think every dog should have. \n\nIt stops so many issues in their tracks and literally saves dogs lives.  If your dog reliably knows how to go to their place (I recommend a raised bed of some sort) - you can change so many behaviors:\n\n<center>![Fotor_148480601852891.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmYWqWzJkHct8UpTER8JkJA992e9TWFiWAeZPUdsU6ALa9/Fotor_148480601852891.jpg)\nGorgeous Giant Schnauzer pup - SIRIUS - practicing on his mini trampoline</center>\n\n* No more door dashing\n* No more jumping on guests when they arrive\n* No more going crazy at the sound of the doorbell / mailman / delivery drivers\n* No more begging at the table\n* No more chasing the cats\n* Makes teaching WAIT/STAY much easier\n* Teaches Impulse Control and patience\n\n<center>(https://steemitimages.com/DQmUPvXQrDjjToS6BpJtetG1bHa3hCpeTdGYgYUch3bGfLQ/New%20Image.jpg)\nRocky rocking out his matwork!</center>\n\nPups are never too young to learn and it is easy and fun to teach.  That gorgeous pup there is Rocky who is staying with me for my **STAY & LEARN HEADSTART** program. \n\nHere is a look at his most recent training footage for his family (not a how to video).  It is all about choice - and having fun which you can see he is!\n\n<center><iframe width=\"640\" height=\"360\" src=\"https://www.youtube.com/embed/Rpl9O8ZokX0?rel=0\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen></iframe></center>\n\nYou can pair the behavior of going to the mat/bed/spot with a sound that may be triggering behaviors you don't want. Miss Luna did really well with her first attempts at learning to Go To Mat when she heard a knocking sound.\n\nThis is a great way to teach excited dogs an alternate behavior for when company comes over.  We are also using it to curtail her desire to rush out the door after the kitties when they are being fed.\n\n<center>![14910447_1400529570005690_4793201086632443321_n.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmWQ3z1CJBWwf9ayP5LbcDUEJm8pLbnnHaU7U8NVWXebh7/14910447_1400529570005690_4793201086632443321_n.jpg)\nI love these particular Pet Cots - easy to put together, washable covers and \ndurable as long as you don't leave them to be chewed on...LOL</center>\n\n\n## SO HOW DO YOU TEACH THIS?\n\nYou basically want to break the finished behavior down into parts.\n* Teach your dog where you want them to go. \n* Teach them what to do when they get there.\n* Proof the behavior for the 4 D's - DISTANCE, DURATION, DISTRACTION & DIVERSITY.\n* Teach them in response to what cue or environmental trigger do do this behavior on.\n\n### TEACHING A DOG TO GO TO A MAT\nThere are several ways to do this.  The simplest for most dogs is to toss a treat onto the location you want them to go on and as soon as they step on the mat/bed - click or say YES! and reward.  Once you have done this a few times - try lining the mat up with you and throwing the treat _over_ the mat so they step on it on the way back to you.  Click/YES when they step on the mat.  \n\nMost dogs pick this up pretty quickly.  When they can hit the mat 9 of 10 times correctly - move the mat out of alignment with you.  Don't worry - most dogs will now miss it completely and just come straight to you.  Give them a second to see if they can work out that you want them on the mat/bed.  \n\nIf not, you may need to do more repetitions with the treat toss over the mat, or you may have moved the mat too far from you.  Practice getting them to find the mat until you can put it beside you, behind you, you can sit on the floor with it or stand up and they still understand what you are looking for is them to get on the mat/bed.\n\nhttps://youtu.be/1BSKGoDnMtE?t=2m57s\n\n### TEACH THEM WHAT TO DO WHEN THEY GET THERE\nOkay we have them on the mat/bed - now what?  Now we teach them to **DOWN** and **STAY** there.  Obviously it helps if they know these two behaviors first but if not you can teach them as part of this one.   \n\nOnce they get to the mat, start to reward them in the DOWN position only.  If they know it, ask for a DOWN and then reward.  If they don't know it, you can either **lure** _(get them to follow the treat with their nose and lie down)_ or **capture** it _(wait until you see them do the behavior, then click/YES and reward)_.  \n\nOnce you have gotten them to DOWN on the mat 10-15 times,  when they come back the next time, just wait and see if they offer to DOWN.  If they do - *JACKPOT!!!* - have a party and make a big deal of their effort.  You want them to basically think running to the mat and laying down is the most fun game ever!\n\n###  PROOFING THE 4 D's\nNow we make things a little harder.  Remember when you change any one aspect of a behavior, everything else gets easier.  You'll see in the video above with Gryphon, when I added **DISTANCE**, I didn't expect him to DOWN automatically but when he did, I praised extra for that.\n\n* DISTANCE:  Get your dog to locate the mat all around you at first.  Can they go to your side?  Behind you?  Then move it a little bit away from you - maybe only 6\" or so.  Can they stop on the mat?  What if you move it 12\" away?  What if it is 12\" to your side?  Practice until they are able to find it anywhere and go to it.\n\n* DURATION:  This is going to be important so don't skimp on the training here.  You can't expect them to hang out on their mat for an entire dinner if they have never done a 30sec STAY.  Reduce all other criteria _(so you can have the mat right beside or in front of you)_ and begin to build up duration.  Go easy at first and install a **RELEASE WORD** to tell them they can get up.  In the video of Rocky above - I used FREE.  In the video below of Bella - I am using BREAK.  It doesn't matter to them - just choose a word and stick with it.\n\nAn easy trick for this is to use TV commercials.  Have your dog play this game while you are watching TV.  First they only need to stay for one ad break, then build that to 2, then all of them in one segment, then add the next part of the show and so on until they can STAY for an entire show.  If they keep getting up - you are going too far, too fast.  You can either give them something to do there, like chew on a specific bone or a frozen KONG or you can use a remote reward device like this Treat & Train.\n\n<center>https://youtu.be/D8pFMqSkz9Q</center>\n\n* DISTRACTION: This is going to be another important step.  If they can't stay on their bed while things are going on, then using this to tackle a doorbell issue, or not trying to sneak under the table at dinner or keeping them away from barking at the window are going to be near impossible.  Here is ONYX, a Lab pup working on learning to STAY while toys are being thrown around for distraction.  When they can master this - they really can master changing any of the above mentioned behaviors!\n\n<center><iframe width=\"640\" height=\"360\" src=\"https://www.youtube.com/embed/hI9_fZX9c_g?rel=0\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen></iframe></center>\n\n* DIVERSITY: This represents any other changes to the environment.  Can they do this behavior in another room?  On another surface?  On the porch?  On leash?  Change things up and expect the same behavior - **BUT REMEMBER** when you make one thing harder - make the others easier until they know the behavior.\n\n### TEACH THEM WHEN TO APPLY THIS SKILL\nAfter all that hard work, it is time to put it to use.  Decide when you need your dog to use this new skill and start introducing it there.  \n\nLet's use the doorbell as an example:\n\n**PAIR THE SOUND WITH THE BED**\nThink Pavlov's dogs - they heard the bell and knew something good was coming.  Here - the sound of the doorbell will begin to mean - if I do [A - go to the mat] then I earn [B - whatever high value reward you choose].  The reward **MUST** be greater than the temptation to just bark or dance at the doorbell however and you must follow through on going to the bed for this to work.   Otherwise the behavior becomes a *\"show me the money\"* behavior where if they don't value what you have - they don't do it.  Consistency is the key here.  \n\n<center>![counterconditioning-lilichin.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmSha6RVGvNVSBpcdYNVur9sowgc8QUn5eompZjLQvnFET/counterconditioning-lilichin.jpg)\n[Classical Conditioning with Boogie](https://boogiebt.com/2013/02/03/classical-conditioning-notes-from-clicker-expo/)</center>\n\nThere are many apps you can use to simulate a doorbell on your phone.  Or record your own doorbell if it has a unique chime.  Start by just rewarding them for staying on the bed while you play the sound, starting with the volume really low and build up to a normal volume. If they are reactive to the sound of the doorbell, have them on a leash so you can prevent them rushing to the door until they learn it a bit better.\n\nOnce they can do that - add some distance - play the doorbell sound, cue MAT/SPOT/BED, walk them back to it if you need to and reward for them being on the bed.  When you have a bit of distance - ring the house doorbell and do the same.  The key here is going to be follow through.  And follow through does not mean correction...it simply means getting them to do what you asked.  If they are struggling, back up a few steps and build more reliability with just the sound on your phone.  \n\nRandomize things - instead of doing a whole long session each time - if you are walking by with your phone - play the sound, do a rep, reward and go on with what you were doing.  This is also helpful for reactive dogs to learn that the doorbell doesn't always mean scary or negative things.  Instead we begin to condition them to a different emotional response when they hear the sound other than fear or aggression.\n\nOnce we can send them to the bed/mat on cue - we want them to start offering the behavior themselves.  This is done by practicing the behavior in a \"It's Your Choice\" situation.  In the video below, my landlords had come over to change a light fixture in the training room and I had a young Doberman pup who was working on Impulse Control staying with me.  \n\nhttps://youtu.be/igFVc5p0QrU\n\nWe had only started working with this behavior the day before so I had no expectations from him, I simply used this as a chance to reward good choices and set him up to learn a more settled behavior than the chaotic barking and running around he was used to doing with new people.  I could have just put him in a crate until they left but that wouldn't have taught him to behave any differently - simply managed the behavior (which is sometimes all you can do but they are great about helping me with any dogs I have here when they come around).\n\nIn this video I am using a _\"bridge word/marker\"_ - GOOD means you are doing the right thing but just not quite there.  So getting/sitting on the bed earn a GOOD marker and then the completed behavior of lying DOWN gets the click/reward.  For a dog who had only practiced this behavior a handful of times the day before - I was very proud of him.\n\nLike any training, you will get out of this what you put in.  Take the time to really work the 4 D's before expecting this to be reliable.  But once it is - there is no end to the ways this can be helpful in creating a more settled and calm dog, no matter what life throws at you.\n\nFor more information on training things like this, join me at my free training group on Facebook:\n\n<center>![Fullscreen capture 10142017 40417 PM.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmbNGNAMgFubHP7TLpWsLEG3UmgHA7iXCSjbScEQg7kk4U/Fullscreen%20capture%2010142017%2040417%20PM.jpg)\n[TRAINING LEVELS GROUP](https://www.facebook.com/groups/329574914180670/)</center>\n\nor on my website:\n<center>![tpplogo3.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmQrFjFCUET2JzQGwgV4rTfvn7QrsfmoY1W69nJMVnetuL/tpplogo3.jpg)\n[think PAWSitive Pup! Dog Training](http://www.thinkpawsitivepup.com)</center>",
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