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      "body": "![3AEF532D-4435-4B4A-A51A-006535A4E429.jpeg](https://cdn.steemitimages.com/DQmXGmXg6n4QM2iTbLJw1Hj8ERboJZkt8jJopMXetNUG1Ne/3AEF532D-4435-4B4A-A51A-006535A4E429.jpeg)\n\nI just got back from backpacking a portion of the Camino de Santiago in Spain a few weeks ago. In the summer, thousands reach the final destination, the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela, daily. My husband and I saw 12 pilgrims total in the course of the whole week. Some days we saw more cows and chickens than humans—that’s counting the farmers and village inhabitants.\n\nWe knew that making the pilgrimage in January would present challenges—the cold, the extra rain in the already rainy province of Galicia, the lack of services—and we would still recommend it, though I would venture to say that the summer pilgrimage is a very different experience.\n\n![869573C4-ACC2-46A9-98D7-DDB42B07A219.jpeg](https://cdn.steemitimages.com/DQmRvRxooR6iqfWj2pKEPBAk1oQRixiBCNooHF7XpdXLkdy/869573C4-ACC2-46A9-98D7-DDB42B07A219.jpeg)\n\nShould you decide to brave the winter months, a few words of advice:\n\nPre-book your rooms. Don’t chance it on just stopping in a town when you’re tired and expecting to find accommodations. We stayed in the loveliest places—no pilgrim albergues, but rooms we booked on Booking.com and Airbnb. Contact me should you want to stay in Vega de Valcarce, Triacastela, Portomarin, Arzúa, or Santiago; fantastic accommodations with wonderful hosts. I also have amazing recommendations for 2 places in Barcelona (not on the Camino but part of our trip).\n\n![980BEB99-F6B5-48AA-83BE-9C63D5060645.jpeg](https://cdn.steemitimages.com/DQme4BhCA59sJ6EDqYdWcyfNzNgHA1U31t7XyHvpAaVp8gE/980BEB99-F6B5-48AA-83BE-9C63D5060645.jpeg)\n\nBe realistic about rain and snow. You will get wet. Luckily we loved our gear (ponchos, packs, quick drying pants, LOTS of gallon ziploc bags) and they got the job done. Surprisingly, all of the places we stayed overnight had hairdryers which, along with radiators, I put to good use in drying wet items, because let’s face it, when you’re outside for 12 hours in the rain you’re going to get a little wet even with the best gear.\n\n![16B3C37F-BF55-48AB-9488-5378E813561E.jpeg](https://cdn.steemitimages.com/DQmRSNT35ZVex7pF7wq6cHdBHcWAehJj3dr1ayEeJpArvXq/16B3C37F-BF55-48AB-9488-5378E813561E.jpeg)\n\nBe prepared that you might not have hot food. After our longest day, in fact, we were so exhausted that we didn’t even eat dinner; going to bed a little hungry was preferable to finding the only open bar in town. We ate lots of croissants and bread and cheese and pork (in all of its wonderful Spanish varieties). We went 3 days without eating any warm food just because we could only find basic services.\n\nIf you care about stamps in your credencial (the pilgrim’s passport), just be aware that you aren’t going to get as many in January as you will in June. You might really care about this; luckily we got over it pretty fast. The issue is that so many businesses are closed at this time of the year.\n\n![79F2A237-BFA2-47ED-A247-B41C07331D07.jpeg](https://cdn.steemitimages.com/DQmeQe2ECRSn9FA6AVF944EnKFLDYaUay2aHS8S1VEZhywW/79F2A237-BFA2-47ED-A247-B41C07331D07.jpeg)\n\nThe sun doesn’t come up until 8:30 in the morning. It’s dark outside. Seriously dark. Spaniards are my kind of people—not morning people—and this probably has a lot to do with it. Every time we tried to leave even as early as 8, the locals would definitely try to talk us out of it. The first day we started at 6:00am and walked and walked with no light; it was particularly challenging as we were just getting accustomed to looking for the yellow arrows and shell markers that show the Camino path. The sun goes down at about 7:30pm. We definitely put our headlamps to good use. It also meant that sometimes we didn’t get fabulous photos of some pretty fabulous places.\n\nPS: We traveled the most-traveled Camino Francés; we’d love to go back and walk one of the other Camino routes, but probably closer to the regular pilgrim season.\n\n![DC536252-508B-4F90-9792-AEBD1750B72E.jpeg](https://cdn.steemitimages.com/DQmXCwJBKapwprhU8PNiNzCRbRzwwgQs7tcW1iXFMmppTTN/DC536252-508B-4F90-9792-AEBD1750B72E.jpeg)\n\nMy photos of the Camino and the countryside hardly capture the beauty of the region, which resembled pictures of Ireland and Scotland far more than I could have ever imagined. This post includes just a few views from the path.\n\n![B9B70571-F3DF-414F-BA64-47939B05C833.jpeg](https://cdn.steemitimages.com/DQmTnKaz2Bh9adPUz2brSHb7WgRgsUBEZgThNoN9T5ABPyc/B9B70571-F3DF-414F-BA64-47939B05C833.jpeg)",
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      "body": "![IMG_7506.jpg](https://cdn.steemitimages.com/DQmeyZV5uyX7ZdppLRamBLXMxWgjz24FjszL85NYu7Hzytg/IMG_7506.jpg)\n\nI'll be celebrating my \"matchiversary\" with my husband tomorrow; just 2 years ago we matched by swiping right on each other's dating profiles, resulting in marriage a mere 4 months later. This past weekend I was dumbfounded to realize that I had never made my husband  lasagne. MY lasagne. The lasagne my mom calls \"her last meal should she ever go on death row.\" Let's hope it never comes to that, but short of bringing a child into the world, cooking lasagne is probably on the short list of my proudest accomplishments.\n\nAnyway, food is love. Lasagne is really, really love, given the time it takes to make. And I love my husband very much, but this. THIS. ?!!! It's a pretty glaring omission. I knew that I had to remedy the lack of love in my marriage immediately. Cooking this lasagne proved to be the perfect Sunday-afternoon-during-a-snowstorm activity to kick off this Valentine's week. \n\n*Disclaimer: I am not Italian. I am an American, though I did live in Italy for a year and a half, 8 months of which I spent in Bologna, the heart of the Emilia-Romagna and the cradle of many things Italian food: balsamic vinegar, parmegiano cheese, mortadella, tortellini, and lasagne. My recipe, however, is not northern Italian, but rather from a friend who spent considerable time in Sicily.*\n\n![IMG_7498.JPG](https://cdn.steemitimages.com/DQmSBkRzGusawxuqJ5JEagew27XggXYHjQauR7e7ywdptu2/IMG_7498.JPG)\n\nThis is not *my* complete recipe, but here are a few recommendations/commandments for making lasagne that will change your life if followed in just about any lasagne recipe you and your family love:\n\n1. Don't boil your noodles. Just DON'T. Layer your lasagne with DRY noodles. This is, in fact, a commandment.\n2. In addition to the obvious tomato base and ground beef, my ragu has, surprise: peas and carrots.\n3. I season my ragu with salt, pepper, cayenne, and nutmeg. That's not a typo. The same nutmeg you put in your pumpkin pie. No basil or oregano for me (at least in my death row recipe).\n4. Regardless of the ingredients you use, make sure your ragu is very wet, as this will cook your noodles when your lasagne is baking in the oven. In the process of simmering your sauce for 1-3 hours, make sure you don't cook off too much liquid. When you put together your lasagne layers, the consistency of your ragu will be quite runny. \n5. I'm not a fan of ricotta or cottage cheese in my lasagne. The taste and texture are all kinds of wrong, and not Italian. Mozzarella and parmigiano reggiano is how you do it.\n5. The staples of your lasagne layers are the ragu meat sauce, the noodles, and secret weapon: besciamella, or Béchamel sauce. Why Americans have dropped the ball on the besciamella step is beyond me, as it's pretty much a glorious, delicious glue of melted butter, milk and flour that will keep your lasagne together.\n6. After you finish assembling your lasagne, I beat 2 eggs with some salt and pour it on the top, creating the most delightful thin crust on top. \n7. Bake your lasagna, take it out, and then let it sit. Then let it sit some more. Better yet, wait until the next day? \n\n![IMG_7500.JPG](https://cdn.steemitimages.com/DQmbH5cnfjQr1N8F6bQcCea6JYhHAyvrX1zF45bG6rAzcoJ/IMG_7500.JPG)\n\n*I also eat gluten-free. It is possible to make this lasagne gluten-free and to even feed it to unsuspecting lovers of gluten without them ever knowing! I do make my own fresh pasta (I highly recommend Jamie Oliver's recipe https://www.jamieoliver.com/recipes/pasta-recipes/gluten-free-pasta-dough/ for making gluten-free pasta, with a few important tweaks... perhaps that's another post), and simply substitute the wheat flour in the besciamella with a gluten-free flour blend (typically a brown rice and white rice flour blend).\n\n![IMG_7502.JPG](https://cdn.steemitimages.com/DQmPovp1w7SAuYQEAQES26LpKZhyEKQ5bruMaZebBpfdnDo/IMG_7502.JPG)\n\nI knew all was right and good in the world when my husband asked if he could eat leftover lasagne for breakfast this morning.",
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