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      "author": "jenclark0506",
      "body": "Five things to instantly step up your photo game. Here we go, let's get rolling, let's get right into it.\r\n\r\nNumber one, angles. No more hip shots or blind fire, we're gonna think about this. Angles are huge, instead of just pulling out your camera and snapping the subject, be it an object or a person at whatever's the easiest angle, just take 10 extra seconds and think about where could this look cool from? Objects typically look really, really good or way better when they're taken from a waist level so you're at the same perspective as the object. Or, just put a little thought into it. Maybe just move around to the left or move to the right, move to the back, just take 10 extra seconds and think to yourself how can I make this look better than just snapping it for the sake of just snapping it? 'Cause we all know, we get home, people compare photos and they always say, wow, yours looks a lot better than mine, why is that? 'Cause we thought about those angles, that's number one.\r\n\r\nTip number two, shoot through something. Instead of just taking a shot, maybe dangle something in front of the lens a little bit. Maybe if you're outside taking a portrait, instead of shooting the people in the forest, maybe back into the tree a little bit so you can see those branches and the leaves hanging down in front of the lens, it gives you bokeh, it gives you nice out of focus elements, and it adds that extra (growling) to the photo that is otherwise missing if you didn't do it.\r\n\r\nMaybe shoot through the handle of the mug, take two playing cards, hold them up to the lens, shoot through that. Essentially, shoot through anything, put an object in front of the lens and just finagle your way through so you can see the subject through whatever it is that's blocking the lens. That adds a huge dynamic. It frames your shots in a really creative and interesting way, give that one a shot.\r\n\r\nPun intended. Number three, think opposite. Let's say we're gonna go do a landscape shot, we are in front of Lake Louise. Everyone is taking the same photo. If there are a hundred people there, your photo might be better, it might be better lit, but for the most part the composition of Lake Louise from those hundred people isn't gonna differ very much. And this doesn't just have to do with landscape photos, it can do with let's say you're taking a picture of a deck of cards or maybe you're shooting a smartphone, maybe a book, maybe a pair of boots, it doesn't matter, it could be a living room.\r\n\r\nTry to think what the most common, typical place the photo will be taken from. So everyone stands in front of the mountain here, everyone places the deck here. Get that in your head and then completely it off. Think okay, I'm gonna shoot it from the back forward. I'm gonna shoot it upside down, I'm gonna shoot it from the left, from the right, from above. It's these little things, it's these little tips that end up producing huge results. So just by taking 10 seconds ahead of time and saying to yourself, this is what everybody does right here, what is completely opposite from what everybody does? And I'm gonna do that. You might surprise yourself. Hell, it could be shit too. Talk about lighting, lighting is huge. If your stuff isn't lit well, A, no one can see it, B, it just looks like it, C, there's no reason it has to look bad, lighting scares a lot of people.\r\n\r\nPeople are thinking, oh I don't know how to set up lights or I don't own lights, the solution's very easy. I'm probably gonna do an entire video on this subject itself, just move to a window. That's it, just stand in front of a window. If you're shooting an object, just move to a window, find the light, essentially, if it's dark outside, maybe don't take the photo unless you're trying to go for night photography. If you're trying to take a picture of something in a restaurant and the lighting is poor, just wait. Just do it tomorrow. If it's grainy and it looks bad and you can't figure out the light, there's probably a reason, you shouldn't be taking the photo right now, unless that's your job and that's a whole other story.\r\n\r\nWe're just talking about regular people taking photos on a regular basis and we wanna up that quality. You're not gonna die, there's no fire, wait til tomorrow. Wait for golden hour, and if you don't know when golden hour is you can google it, there's apps to show it, you can ask Siri, hey Siri, when's golden hour? Window light is naturally diffused, especially if you're on a cloudy day, that cloud cover provides a big giant soft box, if you will. So your photo's probably gonna end up looking a hundred times better and you're gonna say to yourself, damn, this actually looks incredible. You're welcome. Number five, placing objects into the frame that help tell the story, maybe it's people, maybe it's something, maybe it's different objects. Let's say we're gonna take a picture of a deck of cards. We're putting it on a table. It's kinda boring by itself.\r\n\r\nSo maybe we add a laptop, now we're gonna add a cell phone, maybe we'll throw a sweater in there and a mug. Those things are just creeping into the corners but that provides an atmosphere now. The picture's much more interesting. It's not focused on just the laptop, it's not focused on the sweater, and we've made that very clear by keeping those things to the edges, they're not the focus points, the deck of cards is the focus point. But we've added these extra elements to just create more of a mood, more feeling, more of a story in this photograph and it took an extra 10 seconds to just drop these things in. You'll notice that a lot of these tips, all these things are very, very basic tips but will elevate your photography be it with an iPhone, be it with a DSLR, be it with an Instax camera, whatever, they'll make your photos better. Try them out, I think you're gonna get some mileage out of it. (upbeat electronic music) .<br><p>As found on <a target='_blank' href='https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cb5bjlnDkCs' rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Youtube</a></p><br /><center><hr/><em>Posted from my blog with <a href='https://wordpress.org/plugins/steempress/'>SteemPress</a> : https://photographyrevolutions.com/?p=411</em><hr/></center>",
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      "body": "Today we shall take a look at how aperture affects the photograph that we take. We shall also try and understand what depth of field is and how aperture can be used to control depth of field to get each photograph that we take unique look and feel. For every photograph that we take there is a point of focus.\r\n\r\nApart from the point of focus there is an area in front and behind the point of focus that looks like it is in focus too. The distance between the nearest and farthest point that appear sharp is called depth of field. The large depth of field is often called deep focus or deep depth of field, and a small depth of field is often called shallow focus or shallow depth of field. How deep or shallow the depth of field is, depends on the aperture that we are shooting at. So, the smaller the aperture, the greater the depth of field. Or an easy way to remember it is, the greater the aperture f number, the greater the depth of field, and of course, the smaller the aperture number the smaller the depth of field.\r\n\r\nSo you say, I bought this new fast lens with a bigger aperture and since a bigger aperture lets in more light into the camera, why don't I shoot full wide open all the time? Well, this is something that I learned after making a lots of mistakes.\r\n\r\nUsing depth to your advantage is a matter of deciding what you want to reveal or hide in your photographs. Traditionally, while shooting people or portraits, we use a shallow depth of field so that the attention is on the subject, and we use a deep depth of field while shooting landscape because we want everything to be in focus. So, while these are guidelines, there are no hard and fast rules about what kind of photographs to take with what aperture. It is important to think before you press the shutter and know what kind of options are available to you by opening or closing the aperture.\r\n\r\nEven extremely simple pictures can make use of aperture to effectively convey what you are trying to say. So how do we control aperture while shooting? The answer lies in the aperture priority mode of the camera. the aperture priority mode is denoted by an 'A' on Nikon cameras and 'AV' on Canon cameras. In this mode you choose the aperture at which you want to take the photograph and the camera automatically adjust the shutter speed for a proper exposure. It might be a great idea to change your cameras to aperture priority mode and see what different kinds of pictures you can take at different apertures.<br><p>As found on <a target='_blank' href='https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q3SvCAlgFLw' rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Youtube</a></p><br /><center><hr/><em>Posted from my blog with <a href='https://wordpress.org/plugins/steempress/'>SteemPress</a> : https://photographyrevolutions.com/?p=404</em><hr/></center>",
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      "body": "<p><img src='https://i.ytimg.com/vi/3eVjUrY9a9c/hqdefault.jpg'><br/></p>Hi everybody in this article I'm going to explain the exposure triangle, which is the foundation for everything in photography.  Well in this episode we're going to be talking to you about the exposure triangle, it's really the foundation for everything about photography, once you understand how the exposure triangle works you're going to be able to make sure you get a great exposure but you're also going to learn how to take control of all the buttons and dials on your camera and what they do and why they're there, but you will also get creative control of your photographs, so you can tell a better story and so that's what the exposure triangle is all about. In fact we're going to be spending a few episodes on the exposure triangle, we're going to break it down piece by piece so you can really get a handle on all the stuff that it does.\r\n\r\nWell when we think about exposure a lot of the times we think about images being too bright or too dark but there's more to it than that, we can have images that are noisy or images that are blurry are really nice and crisp, or images they have lots of stuff in focus or just the one thing that and focus or maybe its totally out of focus altogether and the exposure triangle helps us understand how all of that works together and the exposure triangle is made of three things and these three things never change so once you have these down you're going to be good to go forever so don't fret it's very, very simple.\r\n\r\nIn the exposure triangle we have the aperture, the shutter, and ISO and the three things work together to give us a perfect exposure. I want to start to explain this by looking at the aperture, now the aperture is inside your camera lens, in fact if I take this lens off my camera and we can look at this really close, I can move this in and out and you can see clearly that the aperture is just this thing that let's light, more light in or less light in, its growing and shrinking. So our aperture is in our lands and I can make it really big or really small by just changing aperture value. Now our aperture values have numbers like f/22, f/16, f/11, f/8 and the smaller the number the larger the opening, and the larger the number the smaller the opening, I know that seems backwards but that's how it is, f/16 is really small f/is really big now it's not important that you know what those numbers mean right now, we're going to explain that in a future episode right now it's important to understand that a big number means a small opening and a small number means a big opening, I guarantee we're going to make that make sense free in a future episode, but just remember a big opening means lots of light is coming through and the small opening means not very much light is coming through so we've got a big number not very much light because its a small hole, a small number means a lot to light is coming through because it's a big opening.\r\n\r\nOur aperture controls the quantity of light coming into our camera so that little thing in our lens it can be open or closed, its letting a different quantity of light come into our camera. Well there's another thing in our camera, everyone already I'm sure knows about this, it's called the shutter. Now the shutter can go at a really fast speed, in fact we'll look at this there's the shutter, BAM, when I turn on my camera it goes wham really, really fast or I can slow that down that was at about 4,000th of a second, I can do all way down to 500th of a second even down to a 30th of a second, and I can get a lot slower, half a second, one second all the way down to 30 seconds, even a few minutes, so just like the aperture where it allows lots of light and not very much light, the shutter does sort of the same thing, with the really fast shutter, not very much light is coming into our camera, a really slow shutter, lots of light is coming into our camera.\r\n\r\nSo we've got these two things the aperture that can let in lots of light or not very much light, and the shutter that can let in lots of light or not very much light and those two things have to be balanced on sort of like a scale, so if this on is letting in a lot of light well then this one needs to restrict so we don't get too much light, or of this one is letting in not very much light we need open this one up so we get more light, so there's always a play in those two things trying to figure out how much light to come in and we're want to talk about how our camera figures that out in a little bit. The third thing in our exposure triangle is called ISO, an ISO controls the sensitivity of our camera to light. Now there's more to it than that and a lot of those really geeky guys that know lots of science are always going to post a comment and say no it's about gain and all this stuff, but it's really easy to remember our ISO controls how sensitive our camera is to light much like our eyes in a dark theater, when we go into a dark theater at first we can't really see, but as our eyes adjust to the darkness then we can see just fine we can, but we can't see as well as we can in bright daylight.\r\n\r\nThe same thing is true of ISO, when you have a low ISO number like 100 or 200 our camera isn't very sensitive to light and so we have to either open up our aperture really wide or make a slow shutter speed or have to be a really bright area, a really bright day and as we increase our ISO our camera becomes more and more sensitive to light the problem is we also get noise in our images so there is a penalty for having a high ISO. So we have those three things, the aperture more and less light, the shutter more and less light, and the ISO more and less sensitive to light which is sort of the same thing as more or less light. Getting those three things in balance we have something that's built into almost every modern camera and that's called a meter. Now think about the meter sort of as a judge, the meter is looking at the settings of our cameras and saying hey if you set the aperture to this wide I've got to figure out how fast the shutter speed should be, or if you set the shutter speed in this fast I've got to figure out how big or small the aperture should be, so the meter is judging things for us and something thats very important to note just because two settings work, or three settings work in one situation doesn't mean it'll work in a different situation because light is constantly changing and that's why we need a meter in our camera.\r\n\r\nAlright lets put all of this stuff together, now that we know about the three things ISO aperture and shutter and the judge or the meter that's built into our camera, how does all on this work? Well it's pretty simple, normally on the exposure triangle you set two things and our camera figures out the third using its meter so you'll set either the ISO and the aperture and the camera will figure out the correct shutter speed or you'll set the ISO and shutter speed and the camera will figure out the correct aperture value and it does that using the built-in light meter.\r\n\r\nNow the question you're asking me is, well which one do I start with, do I set the aperture or should I set the shutter? Well it really depends on the kind of photographer that you are, traditionally scenic photographers and portrait photographers are more concerned with the aperture than they are with the shutter and the reason for that is the aperture helps us control how much of an image is in focus and scenic photographers want everything in focus, from the front to the very end so they want a small aperture value and the shutter can do whatever it wants to do because the camera is on a tripod, and portrait photographers want sort of the opposite of that.\r\n\r\nThey want a nice clear image if somebody's face but they want the background to fall out of focus and the aperture helps us do that so scenic photographers and portrait photographers care about the aperture, while the people that deal with motion, specifically sports photographers they care about the shutter because the shutter controls motion it either freezes motion or shows motion because the shutter controls the the duration of time, how long light comes into a camera, so if you want to shoot somebody dunking a basketball or a race car or a bicycle going by you care about your shutter speed and the aperture can do whatever it wants to do and you're probably still going to be happy.\r\n\r\nThats the beginning point we're going to delve into both of those things in future episodes in fact we're going to delve into all of this over a series of episodes, the next episode we're going to talk about depth of field in the aperture and all the things that it does and how the aperture affects your lens choices so you'll learn how to buy the proper lens for your needs, then we're going to talk about the shutter speeds, we're going to understand stops, how everything works together we're going to understand metering, we're going to talk about how the camera meters light and sometimes it gets it wrong, and we're going to tell you how to get it right every single time.\r\n\r\nI'm going to tell you how to shoot in manual mode using the exposure triangle and a lot more so stick with us, we have a lot to come in Exploring Photography over the few episodes. Well thanks for joining me for this episode of Exploring Photography and don't forget everything that I'm talking about today you can read more about that at the Adorama Learning Center, its absolutely free so check that out and AdoramaTV is absolutely free so click the subscribe button because I know you don't want to miss a single episode. Thanks for joining me this week and I'll see you again next time! Do you want great-looking prints at low-cost? Be sure to visit our easy to use, online printing service.\r\n\r\nAdoramapix has professionals who treat your images with the utmost care that you can count on. For a quick turnaround on photos, cards or albums use Adoramapix.com .<br><p>As found on <a target='_blank' href='https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3eVjUrY9a9c' rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Youtube</a></p><br /><center><hr/><em>Posted from my blog with <a href='https://wordpress.org/plugins/steempress/'>SteemPress</a> : https://photographyrevolutions.com/?p=399</em><hr/></center>",
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      "body": "What's up everyone welcome back to Tokyo Japan my name is Joe Allam and in this video, I'm gonna share five mistakes I commonly see beginner photographers make and my solutions on how to solve them I Should probably point out I am so stoked to be back in Tokyo by the way, I just I love this place so much Alright, so issue number one I see all of the time and that is wonky horizons, now it may not be obvious at first But when you review back your images afters and once you spot it You can't help but not spot anymore. So many people are taking pictures, and they're not aware of how wonky They may be taking those so first and foremost, make sure you have your horizon Dead straight across the center of your image if you have that Otherwise you can always fix it in your editing software so in Photoshop or in Lightroom. Wonkiness is really It's really easy to spot once you go looking for it. If you find yourself a notoriously bad with wonky horizons then maybe some extra tips you can take to improve that is to take your time with things use two hands on the camera and Steady yourself with a steady posture In fact, most cameras will actually have a gyroscope built in and you should be able to enable it On both the viewfinder and on the screen, so you can keep those steady Particularly if you're shooting with a tripod you've really got no excuse So my second mistake that I see quite commonly is a complete misunderstanding of white balance now white balance is the metering that you set in your camera to set the color temperature of your images Now the color temperature comes from your main light source now that could either be the sunlight or it could be a tungsten light or it could be a fluorescent bulb something like that so you need to set the white balance on your camera - the main source of light that way you'll get truly accurate whites and colors across the board with your images otherwise you may end up with very warm and Orangey images or very blue and sometimes greeny images If you shoot in RAW as well, you can also change this in your post-production But generally it's good to get a good in camera these days cameras are actually really good at setting auto white balance as well So that may even be your solution to solve things To change your white balance you can either go into the settings or look on The back of your camera on the top you may have a button that it's just labeled as WB And you'll go through there pretty much every camera will have an icon related to the light source so that you match them, too So if you really have no idea then just match it to the icon And if you really want to be accurate in your white balance then you can purchase a gray card And then you can match up to your images With the grey card in front and then that way everything is going to be accurate Okay, so if there's anything that could be the most important thing that you really don't wanna make a mistake on its this Having blurry or non-sharp images.\r\n\r\nI can't stress enough. How important it is to get your images pin sharp You know you can make a mistake on everything else, but honestly just get your images sharp to me Nothing stands out as amateur more than if your image isn't sharp in the first place now some ways to improve that you can either shoot with a faster shutter speed you can maintain a steadier posture you could use a tripod or You could use a higher ISO if you're in low-light situations so many people come to me with images and they say hey, can I get you feedback on this and beyond anything The one thing that really really stands out is when your images just aren't sharp another thing to take note of with that is the way that aperture plays into the depth of field and sharpness of images the larger your aperture the less you actually have in focus so you may actually find Some people take photos of people and the nose is perfectly in focus and the eyes are soft they're not in focus just use a slightly smaller aperture or set your focus correctly on the eye and That will really stand out differently, but when I say shakiness and bonus I'm usually talking about when people have taken an image, and they're clearly not Stood very steady whilst they're taking it.\r\n\r\nThey just study your posture, and you'll get great results My next tip is related to composition now We all know that finding a great composition is really hard and quite troublesome sometimes however this particular aspect I'd say comes down to spatial awareness And I see it a lot and people maybe aren't aware of the scene that they're in and taking the photos And they don't realize it just a small adjustment can actually make a huge improvement on the image so a few things that are quite commonly seen taking pictures of people and things are uncomfortably cropped off so maybe someone's head is propped up a little bit uncomfortably or the bottom of their feet cropped off if it's a Full-body shot or maybe you're taking a picture of a building and you crop the top of it, and it just looks a bit odd Or perhaps, it's something.\r\n\r\nThat's maybe symmetrical, and you haven't taken it quite in the middle It's just ever so slightly off-center if you can just keep that spatial awareness Apparent in your images it makes a huge difference Okay, so my final tip on how to overcome the five mistakes that beginner photographers make and that is Setting your exposure correctly. Now this is incredibly common that people maybe Unaware of how to properly set the exposure on their camera and that is completely fine, however It is not big, and it is not clever to shoot in manual all of the time I mean, I feel like a few years ago I fell into that trap where I was always shooting manual and now quite often actually shooting aperture priority Or I'll shoot something else Just let something within the camera Do something automatic for you to maintain a correct exposure Because what you don't want to happen is go somewhere and miss a shot because it is poorly exposed or something happens and you've missed It because you're on old settings for when it was exposed to something else the other thing to bear in mind Is that on your camera itself in the viewfinder when you are shooting you will see a little light meter? If you can get that meter as close to the center as possible by adjusting your settings And that means you're gonna have a perfectly exposed image the meters within cameras are really really good these days another thing that a lot of people kind of make the mistake of Through reading old literature is they are afraid of high ISO s and I'm talking like anything above 600 which to me is not high at all If you have a camera that was bought within the last four or five years or something you could be pretty confident to shoot You know3200 ISO.\r\n\r\nMaybe even higher if you've got a high-end camera you could shoot anything up to maybe twenty thousand with your ISO and Still be able to get shots now there will be some noise involved. That's true across anything but What would you rather have? An image that's kind of noisy? Or, no image at all because it's poorly exposed? For me, I'd rather have an image That's correctly exposed if it comes with noise it comes with noise That's just down to the location and any other light you maybe can't control so yeah, be aware of your highlights. Be aware of your shadows and your overall surroundings.\r\n\r\nIf you can try not to clip either of those Generally you want to maintain your highlights You can always raise the shadows in your post-production So you don't want any blown out skies that are supposed to be blue, and they've come out completely white But pay attention to your light meter in the viewfinder and you'll be great So that concludes my top five tips on how to solve beginner problems with photography I hope you've enjoyed this video make sure you give it a thumbs up with the like button below leave a comment of your own tips or any of your own experiences of how you've improved your photography recently and Also, make sure you subscribe to this channel I'm creating loads of content about photography, and I am loving Japan from creating so much whilst I'm here I'm also posting loads on my Instagram, so you know and give me a little follow over there as well alright, so that's everything Thanks for watching, and I will catch you later. See ya You .<br><p>As found on <a target='_blank' href='https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3YWH1ZJwRsE' rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Youtube</a></p><br /><center><hr/><em>Posted from my blog with <a href='https://wordpress.org/plugins/steempress/'>SteemPress</a> : https://photographyrevolutions.com/?p=363</em><hr/></center>",
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