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      "body": "Beautifully crafted composite. It would be great if you could show your blending/masking tutorial. I, for one, would be very interested.",
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      "author": "helloman",
      "permlink": "magic-waterfall-composite-imagery",
      "title": "Magic Waterfall-Composite Imagery",
      "body": "I will preface my first non-editorial post with a little info. Though most of my posts are (and probably will be) on the technical side (gearhead alert), I actually am a creative. I started exploring photography something like eight years ago, though not super seriously. In my sophomore year, I joined the school yearbook as a photographer. Let me tell you, there is nothing more motivational than having to see your work published for the eyes of your entire school. I currently serve as photo editor on our staff (lead position).\n\nReally, my weakest skill kit was and is photoshop. A critical tool for a photographer's arsenal, I felt pretty uncomfortable in the application at the beginning of my AP studio art class. I decided that I wanted to experiment with reality augmentation/creation-the meshing or modifying of one photo with another. That led to this piece. Over 10 hours of photoshop, a lot of hand cramps and a few expletives went into its creation.\n\n\n![final.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmbqc8wyXTg5kzrjn6SRLFtXwhN3ogNLYs8iMnijKrZpQe/final.jpg)\n\n\nWhat you see above is actually a very complex system of layer masks. Nothing was ever cut out or rearranged (lasso tool) or anything of the sort. I started with an arch layer, masked through by hand using the brush tool. The next step was masking through another tree layer that was placed in front of everything to allow the rocks to be in front of the pillars. Without it, the image would have no depth. Added after that were about four more layers of shadows and green tints.\n\nWhat I started with were these two:\n![RDF_5635.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmSoNbNtBFpqb8fH4tFGge8xiTSgDDQZysfVN5zZ9BqnvE/RDF_5635.jpg)\n\n\n![RDF_5279.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmXtfUMN2BcgbZ9yQWqmVK5QqDu2znzxhqRjMxXN24FofF/RDF_5279.jpg)\n\nBig difference!\n\nHope you enjoy!\n-Rowan\n\nLet me know if you would like to see a blending or masking tutorial. I would be happy to put some work into breaking down the specifics of this particular photo if there was any intrest.",
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      "body": "Congratulations @helloman! You have completed some achievement on Steemit and have been rewarded with new badge(s) :\n\n[![](https://steemitimages.com/70x80/http://steemitboard.com/notifications/firstcomment.png)](http://steemitboard.com/@helloman) You made your First Comment\n\nClick on any badge to view your own Board of Honor on SteemitBoard.\nFor more information about SteemitBoard, click [here](https://steemit.com/@steemitboard)\n\nIf you no longer want to receive notifications, reply to this comment with the word `STOP`\n\n> By upvoting this notification, you can help all Steemit users. Learn how [here](https://steemit.com/steemitboard/@steemitboard/http-i-cubeupload-com-7ciqeo-png)!",
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      "body": "@@ -81,8 +81,40 @@\n cheetah.\n+ I wrote the original years ago.\n",
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      "body": "For those viewing, this is my new and updated version of that article linked by cheetah.",
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      "body": "Hi! I am a robot. I just upvoted you! I found similar content that readers might be interested in:\nhttp://www.tomshardware.com/faq/id-1974305/ram-computer.html",
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      "author": "helloman",
      "permlink": "computer-memory-how-much-is-needed",
      "title": "Computer Memory-How Much is Needed?",
      "body": "With more and more options for adding RAM to computers springing up over the past few years, one of the most frequent questions that I have had asked is \"How much RAM do I need?\" One of the things I know for a fact that it feels pretty cool to have the best computer on the block. I also know however, that RAM can be rather expensive, with 16gb of DDR4 costing nearly $170, give or take. So how much do you need? \n\n![Types-of-Computer-Memory.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmco92wgbDdhaW2HmwMPFhqpfW8PJATMauMfDZTEYSWUNR/Types-of-Computer-Memory.jpg)\n\nWell, first things first. What is RAM and what does it do? \nRAM stand for Random Access Memory. It provides a much faster alternative to your hard drive, by letting applications save data on it at a higher rate of speed. Without it, your computer would be very, very, slow.  As of today, your system will probably be needing more and more RAM. I will explain as best as I can what options are available and what you may need depending on your computer use. \n\nOne of the first things to do before adding or purchasing RAM is to make sure it works with your system. If you are buying a system from a popular manufacturer such as Dell, Asus, Apple, Acer or HP, you will most likely not have to worry about this issue. The one thing you may have to consider is making sure you have a 64 bit copy of Windows. If you do not, no more than 4gb will be usable at any one time. Issue two can be a hiccup for people who are new to system building or want to upgrade your pre-purchased PC. The issue that can arise is how much memory (RAM) your system will support. For those building computers, check with your motherboard manufacturer. For those with all in one PCs, check with your PC manufacturer for support information. Different computers will support different generations (DDR,DDR2,DDR3,DDR4), and different speeds such as 800mhz, 1333mhz, 1600mhz. Those speeds let you know how fast data can flow in and out of your RAM. Now on to specific needs and rough estimations of RAM support.\n\nYour standard laptop. The standard laptop these days holds anywhere from 4-16gb of RAM. Pretty much all Windows based laptops have minimal to some upgradeability. 8gb will suffice for most users.\n\n![Insert-RAM.png](https://steemitimages.com/DQmY3ZTwMuNuN4ZPZRRb4Mhk5snh6714ZcuC9hmqbCVGVya/Insert-RAM.png)\n\nYet in a product like the new Apple Retina generation unibody laptops, the RAM is actually soldered to the motherboard, making it impossible to upgrade. Apple gives you up to 16gb of DDR3 1600 RAM in their laptops. The newer apple operating systems compress some of the data stored in the ram for more efficient use. For most general use 8gb will be fine, but keep in mind this will not be changeable later. If you are photo editing and doing content creation, perhaps 16gb would be better for you. The easiest, safest way to get Apple compatible RAM for older upgradable models is through OWC. As a notice though, I would advise watching your budget with Apple products, as they can get quite expensive, quite fast. However, none of this is meant to discourage you from Apples product line.\n\nNow on to the standard desktop PC. \n\n![ram-min.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmbme9LzeMrRhX141xpmzbjHf3A2nwk9pZD2mvEzxpbHYr/ram-min.jpg)\n\nThe standard desktop PC has many configuration options. Even all in one computers can hold 16-32gb of RAM, and it is a little bit cheaper than laptop memory. With these computers, you will never have to worry about your RAM being non-exchangeable/upgradeable, because desktop memory is probably the easiest to fiddle around with. All desktops are capable of being opened to remove and add memory, add PCI peripherals as well as add other components. For the at home web surfer who might occasionally run Office, 4gb will serve you well. For a little extra pop, try 6 or 8gb. If you are interested in lots gaming, please, get an actual gaming PC. It will save you money and time in the long run over upgrading a pre-built OEM unit. \n\nNow, for the moment all the enthsiasts have been waiting for.\n\n![Vi3SnzHQLcEVqshfFm8FvR.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmVMzniGSpVbFPHcT7X7DRibmbWhkMD5g33mcGWuSMvLL6/Vi3SnzHQLcEVqshfFm8FvR.jpg)\n\nGaming PCs. Most gaming oriented towers can hold anywhere from 1-128gb of RAM. I personally run 16gb of DDR4 2400mhz and only ever use 50% of it at normal loads (one game and several Chrome tabs). If your graphics card is incredibly powerful, running games at higher resolutions/FPS, you may need more RAM depending on your processors capability (speed) to process that data. If you have too little RAM, anything less than 4gb for games, you will probably notice horrible stuttering and a unplayable experience.  In other words, balance all of your system components so that no one thing is too fast. \n\nHere is a rough breakdown of the amount amount of RAM for your needs.\n\n1gb: Good luck. You're iPhone X has more.\n2gb: You can install Windows, but won't get past opening two tabs.\n4gb: Casual web browsers and Office users should be fine, and a 64 bit OS will not be needed.\n6gb: With 6gb, you need a 64 bit OS. Check which 64 bit Windows OS support more than 6gb. \n8gb: Pretty much standard in current computers, and you should be able to run most games and stream movies with multiple tabs open. \n16gb: Lots and lots of games can be run on 16gb. Fine for content creation, normal Photoshop or CAD workloads. \n32gb: Futureproof unless you are doing specific high memory demand tasks (advanced rendering, Photohop etc.)\n64gb: Borderline totally unneccesary for anything but the highest demand situations, computer simulations etc. \n128gb: I really hope you are running some sort of scietific computer simulation. If not, you just emptied your wallet for no reason.",
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      "permlink": "what-is-better-for-sports-photography-zooms-or-primes",
      "title": "What is Better for Sports Photography? Zooms or Primes?",
      "body": "The speed and sharpness of a prime V.S. the versatility of a zoom lens. This is, no doubt, one of the more contested topics among photographers of all disciplines. Though there is a valid argument for each, it is often hard for the beginning or even experienced photographer to decide which makes the most sense or delivers the best results. Focusing on sports photography, here is a cost-benefit examination of prime and zoom lenses. \n\n![7831401840_d700205358_b.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmW8oguYYCeWm69rv8Q6N7tPNucESzkBVWNcy2C6aKNTtD/7831401840_d700205358_b.jpg)\n\nNikon 70-200mm F/2.8 on left, Nikon 300mm F/4 on right.\n\nFirst, let's get the technical terminology out of the way. A prime lens is defined as any lens, telephoto, wide or otherwise, that is fixed at one particular focal length. Take, for example, a 300mm F/4. A zoom on the other hand generally refers to a lens that covers multiple focal lengths. In the case of sports photography, this would be something like a 70-200mm F/2.8. A zoom lens, contrary to how many use the word, is not just any lens in the telephoto spectrum (lenses tighter than 35mm). \n\nZoom Lenses\nThe zoom lens is likely the most abundant type among beginning photographers. It has earned this place primarily because of flexibility and consistency in results. When a camera company has to sell a lower level camera at a price point where it makes sense to include a \"kit lens\", they almost never make it a prime. This is mostly because the average beginning photographer would find this too restrictive and foreign. \n\nWhen you make the step between a point and shoot non-removable lens camera to a DSLR or mirrorless camera with removable lenses, most are used to the button on the back/top that allows them to easily zoom in and out on a subject. The introduction of a zoom and focus ring is something entirely foreign, and the omittance of a zoom function entirely would be too strange. I have had non-photographer friends tell me they found my prime lens \"stupid\" or \"annoying\" because they couldn't just reframe by zooming in and out. This issue is amplified in sports, where the subject hardly ever stays at one spot in the frame and requires constant reframing to develop consistent shots. A zoom lens allows a photographer to stay in one spot and find a wide variety of possibilities without feeling restricted if the player moves too close or too far. This might sound like a case of laziness, but for beginning photographers and experienced photographers alike, the zoom lens is very versatile.\n\nThe zoom lens can foster laziness in photographers, where rather than repositioning or looking for more creative angles they opt to zoom in or out. It also allows beginning photographers to take photos that are way too zoomed out to capture the action just that little bit easier. I see photographers that seemingly out of fear of missing the subject take photos that are consistently way too wide to use in a publication or storytelling environment where the action is the desired subject. \n\nA classic use scenario would be an athletic championship of some sort. If only equipped with one camera body and one lens, a zoom lens would be a perfect choice. The longer end of its focal reach will facilitate tight action shots during the game, but the wider end of the focal length allows close up shots of the celebration or trophy ceremony. The 300mm F/4 prime, an excellent choice for sports photography, would be useless when it came to the close-up work. A 50mm F/1.8, an excellent choice for portrait work, would likely be too wide to capture much diversity in action. A 70-200mm or similar lens excels in this area, allowing both without a lens change. However, it is worth noting that gains rarely come without a cost. Enter the prime. \n\nPrime Lenses\nRecall that the zoom lens can be quite versatile. So can the prime, but with a larger dependency on the user and choice of lens. In some cases, the prime lens instantly delivers better results. Namely, in the realms of low light performance, size, weight and sharpness, a prime lens can edge out the competition. \n\nThis isn't always the case, but most manufacturers offer diverse lineups of prime lenses, all for different purposes. This is where it is dependent on the user to understand what is required in a lens for the sporting event they will be shooting. If you can get close, a prime like a 50mm F/1.8 will perform excellently in gyms, which more often than not, are poorly lit. A 50mm can also be had for a price comparable to an entry level zoom like a 55-200mm F4.5-5.6 which would perform worse in these circumstances. The high, variable F-stop of the 55-200mm makes it difficult to get shots that aren't plagued with noise grain or improperly exposed due to the inconsistencies in light gathering (the aperture varies depending on focal length). Also, the decrease in light passing through the lens will challenge the autofocus in lower end cameras. The prime wins here. \n\nA photographer with more money available could purchase a lens with a constant aperture such as a 70-200mm F/2.8 or F/4, but will certainly pay more for it and still won't compete with the low ISOs achievable with a F/1.8 or F/1.4 prime. This isn't to say the 70-200mm F/2.8 and 24-70mm F/2.8 focal lengths aren't incredibly useful, but they are incredibly costly and more expensive. A 50mm F/1.8 from Nikon runs around $150, a 70-200mm F/2.8 of the latest generation clocks in at $2,700.\n\nLenses like a 300mm F/4 prime are amazing. I believe that all serious sports photographers should consider adding one to their kit. I was able to secure one from Nikon on EBay for $560 in great condition and it excels at football, soccer, tennis and other large court outdoor sports. \n\nOptical Issues\nThe astute reader will note that I have neglected to breach the subject of sharpness or optical performance. In most cases, on fully functioning modern lenses, optical performance is simply not a concern. However, the decreased optical complexity of prime lenses can make them less prone to issues like focus breathing, sharpness falloff across the zoom range and vignetting. Not all zoom lenses suffer from these issues, but a fair group does. \n\nAutofocus Performance \nI also neglected to include autofocus performance in my general comparison of benefits and costs. This is because autofocus performance among lenses of the same price tier is often relatively uniform when used on the same camera body. In fact, beyond making general declarations about speed, it is almost impossible to come up with a numerical value to quantify the notion that a lens is faster or slower. More often than not this will change based on lighting situations, subject size, movement speed and the camera body being used. All \"professional\" level zooms and primes lenses (typically denoted for Nikon with a gold ring on the lens barrel and a red one for Canon) will be faster and more accurate to autofocus than an introductory all plastic special. We all hope that the $2500 difference in price between the 70-200mm F/2.8 and 55-200mm F/4.5-5.6 mentioned earlier gets you something :lol: .\n\nComparison Breakdown\nPrimes:\n\nRequire more movement and skill at reading situation\nRestrict options for shots \nOften lighter than comparable focal length/speed zooms\nSuffer from less optical issues \nRequire lens changes to adapt to a situation\nCheaper than comparable zooms \n\n\nZooms:\n\nMore versatile in changing situations\nMore expensive than their zoom lens focal length/aperture direct competitors \nEasy to use and get used to \nSlower minimum aperture can make them prohibitive in ultra low light\n\n\nSo we end with this-neither a zoom or a prime is a bad option. As usual, lens comparisons come down to comparing relative statistics, not the concrete. If you shoot all types of sports and have a large budget, a 70-200mm F/2.8 is an excellent choice. A 24-70mm F/2.8 would augment this nicely if budget allows. On the lower end of the price spectrum, a 55-200mm F/4.5-5.6 and 50mm or 35mm F/1.8 is an excellent combination. The more adventurous can try and dabble in the 300mm F/4/ & F/2.8 prime range, an excellent augmentation to any kit or primary lens for outdoor sports photographers.",
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