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For anyone&nbsp;installing the PRL downpipe and expecting some results with either the factory tune or one of the basemaps with their tuner of choice, you need to understand where some of the “gains” are coming from.</p>\n<p>The CivicX ECU doesn’t use a standard turbo wastegate for boost control — it uses an electronic wastegate run by the ECU. This is more complex and actually very cool. Most “standard” boost control systems use a boost solenoid (mac valve or similar) and when you ask for, say, 20psi, it tries to target that immediately and let the turbo wind up as fast as it can.</p>\n<p>This is not the case with the CivicX. Honda uses a “slope” or “ramp” style boost control. Essentially it knows “X” wastegate position means “Y” boost and will actually “ramp” or “spool” the turbo at a fixed rate to get there. This induces artificial turbo lag. I believe this is done in part to protect the CVT trans and possibly to protect&nbsp;the motor — as this little turbo&nbsp;has the potential to “wind up” (spool) VERY quickly if it’s&nbsp;unleashed.</p>\n<p>So why is this distinction important? Advertising that anything will make “peak torque sooner” is actually not quite true. In repeatable and consistent tests peak torque is always the same spot as that is where the ECU finally lets the turbo reach it’s target boost. If we didn’t have this control in the ECU I can imagine peak torque being 2200-2500 rpm on this motor with this downpipe.</p>\n<p>However, since the ECU is programmed for a STOCK downpipe, when you install an aftermarket downpipe (PRL’s in this case), the&nbsp;exhaust flows more freely and as a result the turbo will TRY to make more boost than the ECU wants and at potentially a little different “ramp” as the wastegate control in the ECU isn’t compensated for this new part.</p>\n<p><img src=\"http://blog.vittuned.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/boost_comparison.png\"/></p>\n<p>So what did I find?&nbsp;When I tuned the car stock on 87 octane bone stock, I targetted 18.4psi and the boost level stayed very close to target boost. To try and give us 1:1 results at the same boost level, I actually had to target 17.5psi to get the same boost level I had before installing the downpipe. You can see this in the side by side comparison in the image to the left. I forgot to get this dyno comparison off the dyno computer before I left the shop, but keeping boost the same we saw 8-9whp on the top end and 10-20wtq gained. Keep in mind this is over our “stock tuned” 87 octane test — so we’d already worked on the timing map and fueling a bit as well. You’ll also note as we put load on the car before starting the pull — the turbo was already making almost 2psi more than before the downpipe — this will come into play later.</p>\n<p>What does this mean to YOU? If you’re running the same tune with a freer flowing downpipe you will artificially increase the boost level a bit. This will have gains on lower octane fuel as you’re not at peak turbo performance on the stock downpipe on lower octane fuels. Just understand where those gains are coming from — it’s not all just the “tune” at this point. The ECU *will* try to normalize the boost control and bring it back down to the target as the pull goes on (as you can see it happening).</p>\n<h3>The Install</h3>\n<p>The PRL items, as always, are quality pieces. Very well done items and fitment on our car was like a glove. No rattles, no rubbing. If you don’t have a lift the install will be a bit more&nbsp;entertaining. On my lift it took about 2 hours to get the stock items off and this one installed. The&nbsp;studs in the turbo can be interesting — PRL broke theirs. I managed to get mine off without any breakage or stripping with the use of some magic lube.</p>\n<p>Some pics, of course.<br>\n<img src=\"http://blog.vittuned.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/IMG_1864.jpg\"/></p>\n<p><img src=\"http://blog.vittuned.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/IMG_1868.jpg\"/><img src=\"http://blog.vittuned.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/IMG_1866.jpg\"/></p>\n<p><img src=\"http://blog.vittuned.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/IMG_1865.jpg\"/></p>\n<h3>So What About The Toon?</h3>\n<p><em>Note: blue is HP, yellow is TORQUE, orange is BOOST.</em></p>\n<p>So let’s try to give it a&nbsp;bit more boost and see what happens? Increased the boost level about 1psi (don’t want to go crazy with 87 octane) after adjusting the timing map and such — and the results were nice. 20whp and 30-32wtq gained.</p>\n<p><img src=\"http://blog.vittuned.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/similar_boost_vs_stock_tuned.png\"/></p>\n<p>Torque came in sooner too, right? Of course — if we didn’t have the “ramp” based boost&nbsp;control it would of come in even sooner, but we got maybe a 200-300 rpm improvement because the turbo just wants to GOOOO with the free flowing downpipe, even if the ecu doesn’t want to let it! Peak torque however — was still the same spot. This should never really change as long as&nbsp;the load &amp; ramp rate of the pull is consistent (not all dynos can control this — and certainly load will vary on the street).</p>\n<p><img src=\"http://blog.vittuned.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/dp_try_more_boost.png\"/></p>\n<p>But hey, let’s try to give it a little bit more. In the dashed line we increased boost a bit more (with a few other changes), and as you can see the gains were marginal — a bit more torque, but top end HP actually suffered a bit. We’re now at the limits of the fuel and I was starting to see the knock limit approaching very&nbsp;rapidly — don’t want to run here long term at all for reliability’s sake. But hey, overall we still saw 5-8wtq more&nbsp;which amounted to 35-40wtq through the mid range and we still picked up 20wtq up top.</p>\n<p>So if you want to run on readily&nbsp;available fuels and not go hunting for race gas or some sort of “secret sauce” (lol), then PRL has a great RACE downpipe. Expect to see diminishing returns in how much HP you can make with better fuel — on 93 expect maybe 8-10whp more with this downpipe.&nbsp;Of course more torque as well — if your clutch can take it.</p>\n<h3>Vs Bone&nbsp;Stone?</h3>\n<p>Don’t really need an explanation I think?</p>\n<p>87 octane fuel. &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</p>\n<p><img src=\"http://blog.vittuned.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/vs_stock.png\"/></p>\n<p>Where can you get all these goodies? Right here, along with tunings and custom tuning!</p>\n<p><a href=\"http://vittuned.com/2016-civicx-1-5t-3-downpipe-front-pipe-combo-pre-order.html\">http://vittuned.com/2016-civicx-1-5t-3-downpipe-front-pipe-combo-pre-order.html</a>&nbsp;</p>\n</html>",
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      "body": "<html>\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\n<h1>Project Civic X — Bone Stock on High Octane</h1>\n<p>Just days after tuning the Civic EX-T bone stock on 87 octane I’ve managed to get the tank low enough for some high octane testing — still completely stock.&nbsp;Wasn’t an easy task running the tank low when it gets 40mpg on the highway!</p>\n<p>But here goes… the results are <strong>FANTASTIC</strong>!</p>\n<h3>High Octane Vs 87 Octane</h3>\n<p><img src=\"http://blog.vittuned.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/87tuned_vs_hightuned.png\"/></p>\n<p>This doesn’t take a whole lot of explanation — we picked up as much as 60&nbsp;ft.lbs. of torque more on the high octane fuel — and almost as much as 40-50whp more through the curve.</p>\n<p>How’s this stack up against completely stock? Here you go — something like 80-90 ft.lbs. of torque more over stock.&nbsp;</p>\n<p><img src=\"http://blog.vittuned.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/bonestock_vs_hightuned.png\"/></p>\n<h3>Versus 8th and 9th Gen Si</h3>\n<p>Since we were having a bit of fun comparing the results of the Civic X vs the previous generation Si — might as well keep going!</p>\n<p>Versus a bolt on 8th gen.&nbsp;</p>\n<p><img src=\"http://blog.vittuned.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/hightuned_vs_8thgenbolton.png\"/></p>\n<p>Versus a bolt on (RBC swap) 9th gen. &nbsp;</p>\n<p><img src=\"http://blog.vittuned.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/hightuned_vs_9thgen_rbc.png\"/></p>\n<h3>Thoughts?</h3>\n<p>I could of actually made more power (especially more torque) on the Civic X on the high octane fuel — but I was cut off at the knees by the software currently available to tune these cars. So take these results as “software” limited. It is very early in the life of these cars and once we get more ECU development for the platform a lot more potential will be unlocked.</p>\n<p>And keep in mind — this is still <strong>BONE STOCK</strong>. Time will tell what a few bolt ons will do (especially a downpipe).&nbsp;</p>\n</html>",
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      "body": "<html>\n<p>&nbsp;</p>\n<h1>Tuners vs Tooners</h1>\n<p>It has been a while since I’ve posted a good rant as I have been busy hitting the ground running in 2017. Kevin’s 9th gen Civic Si&nbsp;is alive and laying down some solid power with our MoTeC programming and we’ve done a lot of testing (lots in the background beyond the power/tuning figures I posted) on the new CivicX platform. We also have a project I’m really looking forward to coming into the shop soon — a certain yellow Chevelle we’re converting to fuel injection and building a MoTeC&nbsp;ECU for a twin turbo 76mm setup. More 9th and 8th gen Si’s coming in for MoTeC installs as well…</p>\n<p>More on that stuff later as it progresses… on to the rant.</p>\n<h3>My Tuner Is Legit</h3>\n<p>You know we’ve all heard this one — but when they tag their tuner, no one’s ever heard of that one.</p>\n<p>Not to say that automatically implies the said person isn’t a magician at their trade. But the reality and years in this business has made me a skeptic. I’ve been sent plenty of datalogs to review where the owner thought the car “drove fine” where in reality it was not even remotely close and was improved on significantly. It just exemplifies the&nbsp;ignorance when it comes to what a “properly tuned car” is. And really, the average enthusiast/car owner/racer shouldn’t really have to care or worry about it — it is in fact not their job to set the ECU up properly. They are paying for it to be done right.</p>\n<h3>Tuning</h3>\n<p>I feel like a broken record on this one point, as this argument comes up a lot. Tuning isn’t just about power. YOU CAN ALWAYS MAKE MORE POWER. Either with better parts, better fuel, or running the motor harder (the “tune”). In some of those scenarios you’re in a situation where you are going to trade off “more power” for reliability. And a dyno is a tool —&nbsp;it was not invented so we can go around racing the dyno sheets and arguing about “making power”. It’s a tool designed to let the operator&nbsp;run tests and make CONSCIOUS DECISIONS about how they are going to CHOSE to run a motor — and this will vary depending on the venue the car is used in.</p>\n<p>The “basics” of tuning an engine, any engine, is mostly the same from platform to platform, car to car. Fuel injection is fuel injection, whether it’s port or direct — there are some differences, obviously, but the concepts of fueling &amp; ignition timing (then throw in cam timing) do not really vary from engine to engine. If you can tune one engine on one platform, you can tune another engine on another platform.</p>\n<h3>Can’t Be That Hard Then?</h3>\n<p>So where does the complexity arise? The ECU’s themselves. This is where the platforms start to vary and the actual work, experience &amp; knowledge start to come in to play. The way Honda does things in the ECU is different from how Ford does it which is different from how Subaru does it which is different from how Toyota does it which is different from how Chevy does it, on and on. I work on a large variety of platforms, the ECU’s can be wildly different.</p>\n<p>This is where someone that is only familiar with one way of doing something because that is the only platform they work on (or mostly work on and see something else very rarely) will stumble and produce results which are not the best.</p>\n<h3>Tuners</h3>\n<p>You can literally spend weeks if not months figuring out how to setup a calibration (the “tune” file) properly to get the ECU to do what you want it to do not only repeatedly, but safely.</p>\n<p>So what have we done to figure out what strategies to employee to run the motors with the factory ECU’s? Well — either I work closely with a friend/customer that has a certain platform or we have purchased and own (or have owned) our own cars to test on. This way I have a car readily available to not only test parts on — but to test different strategies on and figure out what the ECU is actually doing with the input&nbsp;in the exposed tables in the software and whether the results are good or bad and something underlying in the ECU needs to be changed.</p>\n<p>This is a hefty investment in not just resources — but time. And largely this investment isn’t appreciated or is under appreciated as no one&nbsp;is really aware of what has gone in to get a certain platform to where it is today.</p>\n<h3>Tooners</h3>\n<p>I’m going to be very blunt here — there’s a million of these guys. Anyone with a $150 laptop, some free software and a base file or two can pass off as a “tuner”. This doesn’t just apply to the Honda market — I’ve watched it grow and repeat in the Subaru, Ford, Chevy and even some stand alone ECU markets. I’m sure it happens on anything that you can “tune”.</p>\n<p>So what actually happens? It’s very simple — on most solutions it’s virtually impossible to protect your work. So after a car has been tuned and is out in the “wild”, either the owner takes it to a dyno day or the car is sold and the next owner takes it to someone… and something as basic as this happens: plug into the ECU/device and click “Download”.</p>\n<p><img src=\"http://blog.vittuned.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/tooners.png\"/></p>\n<p>Done, you’ve pulled the calibration (“tune”) off the device or the ECU, and from there on they can claim it is there’s.</p>\n<p>You are now a legit tuner and I’m sure the car(s) the calibrations are being recycled on even drive alright.</p>\n<p>Who’s going to know it wasn’t your work, right?</p>\n<p>Guess what, I know. Anyone that’s developed a calibration from scratch on any platform will know when their work has been ripped off and recycled.</p>\n<p>Some are doing it so flagrantly that literally the whole calibration is 99% identical to what was ripped off the device/ECU. Not even changing any notes or comments. They have absolutely no clue what they are looking at but making a buck off&nbsp;someone that is oblivious to what&nbsp;is actually happening is just&nbsp;easy money. Hey it drives fine and the owner of the car is happy, so screw it?</p>\n<p>Then there is the other crowd — they are pulling/ripping the maps, and then analyze them to figure out what you did and they duplicate it in their own calibrations. This is known as “R&amp;D” (read &amp; duplicate). They understand the basics, but&nbsp;when it comes to the platform, really have no idea what they are looking for beyond just that — the basics (fuel/timing). As long as they can duplicate it to get the results, they are happy and their customers are oblivious.</p>\n<p>In both situations I’ve watched&nbsp;the tooners and their “fans” defend them tooth and nail. In situations where I absolutely know this “map hijacking” is happening. They will, of course, deny it til they are blue in the face.&nbsp;Can’t admit to it, ruins their credibility right? Lol, what credibility?</p>\n<p>Really, it is flattering, I guess?</p>\n<p>But what stems from this is having to wade through oceans of bullshit.</p>\n<h3>So How’s This Happen?</h3>\n<p>Not only is the ease in which maps (“tunes”) can be pulled, but the tactics they use, are really disgusting. I’ve witnessed maps get pulled off cars on dyno days where the car was just&nbsp;there for a baseline and the laptop had no reason to be near the vehicle. A certain customer of mine had his VTEC Killer tune ripped off his laptop via a remote “support” session (lol?). One even had a map ripped from him under pretenses of “making the tune better”, which when comparing the “changed” calibration (99.9% identical to what he had to start with anyway…) was leaning the car out to something ridiculous like 13.88 A/F under WOT — so in reality he actually paid someone $50 to rip the map to use as their own. Yes this actually happened — I was dumbfounded when I was told about the situation (I was down in SoCal on a trip and&nbsp;he swung by to have his car retuned in person for the S/C he was having a friend’s shop install on his car while I was in town).</p>\n<p>In fact, the most common ways the maps find their way into the hands of tooners is under pretenses of “making more power”. It’s disgusting and I can only hope people do their research and understand that very little in tuning is about just making power and getting a number.</p>\n<p>It really is a vicious cycle — I’ve personally witnessed this happen over the 10 years in the Honda market. As the 8th gen Civics and 9th gen Civics got older more and more tooners were&nbsp;popping up out of the woods offering “tunes”. They were absolutely nowhere to be found when the platform was in it’s infancy and just starting out. And they are still nowhere to be found in any of the circles that are trying to advance the platform in one way or another.</p>\n<p>Some of the names I even recognized from customers who had paid me to tune their own personal vehicles — are now proclaimed legit tuners. Gee I wonder where they got their maps?</p>\n<p>I’m sure recycling cooking cutter bolt on and light F/I (basic s/c and such) maps is one hell of a market. I’m sure it is a hell of a lot easier and much less of an investment than having to devote countless hours/days/months of your time to actually developing the platform, arguing with the company developing the tuning software to get improvements added&nbsp;and figuring out what’s what.</p>\n<p>Oh well, back to the grind I go, I guess.&nbsp;</p>\n</html>",
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      "title": "Introducing the 2017 Honda Civic Si",
      "body": "<html>\n<p><img src=\"http://blog.vittuned.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/thecar.jpg\"/></p>\n<p>&nbsp;So this just happened. Yup, it’s been a hectic couple months and through it all I’ve been waiting for our 2017 Si to arrive. We traded our 17 EX-T sedan test mule in for this one. I picked up the car with just 12 miles on it, fresh off the truck. The fit, feel and drive of this Si is way different from the EX-T Sedan, and even different to that of the previous generation Si’s — but that’s for another post.</p>\n<p>After rolling 142 miles on the car between driving it home from the dealer and to the shop, I put it on the dyno for some baseline testing and a mild tune. Right off the bat I was not happy with the clutch — it’s the same setup (other than the flywheel) as the base model 1.5T vehicles and on a couple of street tests in 3rd gear I already noticed clutch slip between 2500 and 3000 rpm at WOT. Wonderful. More on that later.&nbsp;</p>\n<p><br></p>\n<h3>The Baseline</h3>\n<p>First — the car came with a tank of 87 octane, not ideal for a sports model Civic, and we know these things will make more power on premium grade fuel (92-93 octane in our tests). I baselined it on 87 octane anyway. Solid is the Si, dashed is the EX-T. The upgrades on the Si clearly make more power than the base 1.5T — and at “only” ~17.8psi (yup, our car never hit advertised boost levels by Honda). 191whp and 208wtq. Not bad.</p>\n<p><img src=\"http://blog.vittuned.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/stock_87_vs_ext.png\"/></p>\n<p>I ditched the 87 octane and got premium fuel in the car. I also sped the dyno up slightly as I was concerned with clutch slip (Dynapack allows you to control the acceleration rate of the motor — the “ramp rate”). &nbsp;</p>\n<p><img src=\"http://blog.vittuned.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/stock_93_vs_ext_fastramp.png\"/></p>\n<p>This graph shows what the Si makes on premium grade fuel (Si is solid again) vs our base EX-T. I noted no slip at this ramp rate, so I put the dyno back to the original speed and did another pull — and of course with the boost coming in sooner the car made more torque, and we hit some clutch slip (as you can see — chart below).</p>\n<p><img src=\"http://blog.vittuned.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/stock_93_vs_ext_slowramp.png\"/></p>\n<p>So looks like on 92-93 octane we will see anywhere from 200-206whp and 210-220wtq (depending on your luck with the clutch). So right around advertised power at the crank, but to the tire… with more torque than advertised (actually).</p>\n<h3>How Does This Compare Vs The Previous Si?</h3>\n<p>I’ve been around long enough to watch the Internet explode with drama every time Honda releases a new generation of Civic. The subjective arguments of it “looks like blah blah” or blasting for Honda not doing this or that (only 205hp what?). I think we all need to settle down and just accept that Honda builds the Civic Si as a sporty econobox. That’s what they’ve always done, that is their target audience — and the cars seem to sell, so they can’t possibly be getting it all wrong?</p>\n<p>So, here’s what they’ve done this time around. To the right — solid is the 2017 Si,&nbsp;bone stock. Dashed is a bone stock 9th gen Si. Wow, the 2017 Si makes a good 50-60 wheel torque and a good 40whp more than the last generation Si it’s replacing.</p>\n<p><img src=\"http://blog.vittuned.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/vs_stock_9thgen.png\"/></p>\n<p>How about a stock 8th gen Si? It’s not even a comparison, it makes 100wtq more through the usable power range than the 8th gen Si and 75whp more (sure, only “30” hp peak — the K20 has always been high strong and peak HP doesn’t win you any races).</p>\n<p><img src=\"http://blog.vittuned.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/vs_stock_8thgen.png\"/></p>\n<p>Well, let’s throw some bolt ons at the 9th gen Si and see how it compares to the 2017 Si? Solid is the 2017 Si again.&nbsp;</p>\n<p><img src=\"http://blog.vittuned.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/vs_bolt_on_9thgen.png\"/></p>\n<p>How about the bolt on 8th gen? Solid is the 2017 Si once again.</p>\n<p><img src=\"http://blog.vittuned.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/vs_bolt_on_8thgen.png\"/></p>\n<p>Clearly Honda got it all wrong? I don’t think so. I’ve owned and driven all the generations of these cars in every fashion — stock, bolt on, supercharged and turbocharged. While we did get rid of our 2013 Si, I still have our 2008 Si (a 900whp+ built car is hard to part with — a lot of upkeep but oh so much fun).</p>\n<h3>Let’s Throw a Mild Tune At It</h3>\n<p>With the clutch not wanting to hold even stock power on premium fuel, I didn’t want to get too crazy with the tune on the 2017 Si — yet. Hopefully 142 miles just isn’t enough break in on the clutch and it’ll improve with some drive time (already have a better clutch waiting as well). So just to be clear — I intentionally limited potential power gains and stayed under 230wtq to avoid damaging the obviously fresh clutch on the car. I actually detuned and lowered boost from 3000 to 4000 rpm. My goal was to fatten up the powerband and tune out the “pullback” even this sports model suffers from (throttle closures which also cause boost to get pulled back).</p>\n<p>Mission accomplished. While keeping the mid range/low end relatively stock we were still able to net 50wtq and 40-45whp over stock through the curve (with about 20hp peak). This is a nice improvement in the way the car accelerates.&nbsp;</p>\n<p><img src=\"http://blog.vittuned.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/vs_stock_mild_tune.png\"/></p>\n<p>Is there more in it? From what we’ve seen on the base 1.5T which make over 240whp and 300wtq, absolutely. Stay tuned to see us squeeze the Si for all she’s got once it’s got a few more miles on it — only 24 hours old and I’m already putting her through the grinder.&nbsp;</p>\n</html>",
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