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      "body": "<img src=\"http://lifewithglee.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/Porto-Alegre-Street.jpg\" alt=\"Porto Alegre\" class=\"wp-image-2551\"/>\n<p>After a final Buffet Livre with Peter, I set about leaving upon returning to his house. As much as I like company, I tend to feel confined by expectation and convention. Rolling toward Porto Alegre, I felt liberated again, even as the buildings and urban landscape gradually closed in around me. </p>\n<p>The absence of signs to \"Porto Alegre\" or \"Centro\" led to an irritating mystery tour across the unfamiliar signposted districts punctuated by a stop or two to check the map on the laptop. 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I clapped my hands for attention, as I had learned in Paraguay and a short Brazilian woman clutching a cellphone let me in and opened the gate to the drive, allowing me to seclude the bike round the back next to the BBQ pit. </p>\n<p>Juan and Rodrigo gave me a friendly and amiable welcome and spoke a comfortable vocabulary of English. Rodrigo had taken refuge here while dealing with a heartbreaking separation similar to my own over a decade earlier. He’d recently found sanctuary in the hostel. </p>\n<img src=\"http://lifewithglee.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/Rodrigo-2.jpg\" alt=\"Me and Rodrigo\" class=\"wp-image-2545\"/>\n<p>I recalled the pain of separation and it brought back my memories of despair and emptiness before it slowly condensed into the launchpad of my life into ultimate freedom. I'd written a book about it years ago but abandoned it during editing since that part was expensive.  Technically, I'm an unpublished author.</p>\n<p>Through all that memory and introspection, I knew there wasn't anything I could really do to help apart from to listen and simply <em>connect</em>. It’s a path that one has to tread alone,  with or without help available in the wings.</p>\n<p>There's a Decathlon camping store a couple of KM away and I wandered out via the river taking in the scenery to see if I could find replacement poles for my constantly breaking Coleman Rainforest Tent. No, none in the correct size. I noticed the same Quechua Quick Hiker as I’d found in Cânion das Laranjeiras listed for £180 so I didn’t feel too bad about the unproductive hike to the store. </p>\n<ul class=\"wp-block-gallery columns-3 is-cropped\"><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><img src=\"http://lifewithglee.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/Mercado.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"2549\" data-link=\"http://lifewithglee.com/mercado-3/\" class=\"wp-image-2549\"/></li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><img src=\"http://lifewithglee.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/Mercado-Front.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"2547\" data-link=\"http://lifewithglee.com/mercado-front/\" class=\"wp-image-2547\"/></li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><img src=\"http://lifewithglee.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/Porto-Alegre.jpg\" alt=\"Mercado\" data-id=\"2555\" data-link=\"http://lifewithglee.com/porto-alegre/\" class=\"wp-image-2555\"/></li></ul>\n<p>Sauntering back to the city centre empty-handed beneath the baking southern sky, I wandered around in tourist mode, ageing shins aching through the recent city mileage. There's a famous central market within a palatial looking colonial building, full of colour and bustle. A charming place to sit and enjoy chicken and chips, cool in the shade for watching people go about their daily business.</p>\n<ul class=\"wp-block-gallery columns-2 is-cropped\"><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><img src=\"http://lifewithglee.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/Porto-Alegre-Public-Market.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"2554\" data-link=\"http://lifewithglee.com/porto-alegre-public-market/\" class=\"wp-image-2554\"/></li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><img src=\"http://lifewithglee.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/Porto-Alegre-Public-Market-2.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"2553\" data-link=\"http://lifewithglee.com/porto-alegre-public-market-2/\" class=\"wp-image-2553\"/></li></ul>\n<p>Four nights in the six-bed dorm of Villa Sophia. I always closed the windows before bed for keeping out the city noise and mosquitos, despite the warm weather. I'd awake to find them wide open again after people crept to bed in the early hours. </p>\n<p>All six bunks were occupied. Souls sharing a space of trust during excursions away from our physical bodies into the land of nod. A man snoring like a charging bull woke us all, one by one. It was so bad, one of us almost said something. I got up and went downstairs for some respite and a refreshing midnight glass of water for company.  Rodrigo was already downstairs agitated by the disturbance ensuing upstairs. How can someone snore so loudly without waking themselves up? Our discussion drew a blank. Thankfully, the oblivious guest checked out the next day...</p>\n<img src=\"http://lifewithglee.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/Rash.jpg\" alt=\"African Grass Rash\" class=\"wp-image-2546\"/>\n<p>Both my arms were inflamed with agonising rashes from the weeding of rampant invasive African grass at Peter's. The steroid cream I´d bought at the Farmacia had no remedial effect but the mechanical action of applying stimulated an eye-watering itch. An excuse to rub the cream in harder until the pain could get no worse. An allergy, most probably. Different to the Poison Ivy episode I'd suffered from the mountains of Sint Maarten.</p>\n<p>Sunday, 24th March. Four nights in Porto Alegre was enough for me. As much as I enjoy the contrast of city, after the rigours of nature,  it becomes soporific for the soul. The Boiling-Frog syndrome where the comforts of civilisation boils away the zest for living.</p>\n<img src=\"http://lifewithglee.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/BR290-1024x490.png\" alt=\"BR290\" class=\"wp-image-2556\"/>\n<p>Leaving to head west along Peter's recommended route of the BR290, the route out of town was easy to memorise as I’d already ridden along it in the opposite direction and all I needed to do was to take the exit ramp that curled west over the highway and marshes feeding the River Guiaba and into the afternoon sun.</p>\n<p>Caçapava do Sul was a speedy 260km away, boasting the only entry for a campsite on iOverlander of the rural 'Chacara do Forte' campsite. 20km of that was a perpendicular detour off my route.  The town looked nothing special but I wouldn't be staying long enough to judge properly.</p>\n<img src=\"http://lifewithglee.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/Forte-Pedro.jpg\" alt=\"Camp Site\" class=\"wp-image-2543\"/>\n<p>Entering the campsite, barking dogs followed the bike past the throng of locals enjoying the Sunday sunset view and into the woods, leaving me in peace to pitch camp as soon as the engine stopped. </p>\n<p>Their cunning plan appeared to be to retreat until the middle of the night before creeping up and pissing on the tent. I'd awoken in the dark to the unmistakable patter of drops on fabric and got up to rinse it straight away to avoid toting the persistent aroma of dog-piss around Brazil.</p>\n<img src=\"http://lifewithglee.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/Puffy-Eyes.jpg\" alt=\"Puffy Eyes\" class=\"wp-image-2539\"/>\n<p>I awoke mid-morning, cold in the shade of the woods and dozed tucked up in my sleeping bag until gone 12. the rash on arms not so irritating but now I was sporting swollen, itchy eyes. all I could do was wait out this kind of allergy. </p>\n<img src=\"http://lifewithglee.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/Forte-Pedro-2.jpg\" alt=\"Forte Pedro II\" class=\"wp-image-2537\"/>\n<p>I Rode out with the barking dogs chasing me to the cattle grid and stopped briefly to visit the monumental Fort Pedro II. Basically, a giant broken-walled lawn.  retracing my route back through the town, I pressed on westwards.</p>\n<img src=\"http://lifewithglee.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/Juarez-Souza.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2538\"/>\n<p>Lying-in shortens the day somewhat. Late afternoon I stopped at Churrascaria Ungaratho near Villa Novo do Sul for fuel and refreshment. Peering at my screen through puffy eyelids, over lace tablecloths and hot coffee, a few people drifted in and out noticing the Peru plate on the bike parked next to the door, stimulating conversation.  Juarez Souza - a man in his early 20s, riding a beautiful green Honda Trans Alp, introduced himself taking a break here himself on his way back to his home in Sao Paulo. He said he'd give me contacts in Montevideo Uruguay when I got there.</p>\n<p>I think back to when I was his age, I wasn’t courageous enough to take mammoth solo tours back then… what with the illusion of having too much to lose and putting at risk an imaginary future… </p>\n<img src=\"http://lifewithglee.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/Stealth-1.jpg\" alt=\"Stealth Camp\" class=\"wp-image-2532\"/>\n<p>The hour approached five before I got going again. Topping up the tank with Shell’s finest distillation and accelerating westward into the blinding setting sun for an hour brought me halfway to the Uruguayan border somewhere between São Gabriel and Rosário do Sul before discovering a likely-looking hideout for the night: a farm track off a layby doubling back into fenced-off fields, finding a recessed gateway to field, hidden by tall grass. I pitched at sundown and settled inside the tent cradled by a comfortable tractor tyre rut for the night.</p>\n<img src=\"http://lifewithglee.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/Stealth-3.jpg\" alt=\"Stealth Camp\" class=\"wp-image-2530\"/>\n<p>Resurfacing into a bright, dew-soaked morning, an unseen truck rattled past and down the lane as I slowly packed away. I was away by 10am.</p>\n<p>45km brought me to Rosario do Sul. The lack of detail on the paper map sucking me into the heart of the speed humped town in search of the southerly final leg to Uruguay. The junction I needed turned out to lie a few kilometres out of town, not apparent on my photo of Peter’s paper map.</p>\n<img src=\"http://lifewithglee.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/Restaurant.jpg\" alt=\"Cafe\" class=\"wp-image-2534\"/>\n<p>I stopped for brunch a small nondescript cafe on BR158 south of Rosario. The vendor folded his arms and pretended not to understand my attempts at Portuguese but took my order after I pointed at another customers plate and I suspected overcharged me. After a brief exchange with two more bikers outside the cafe, I left but they quickly caught and left me in their wake.</p>\n<p>Twenty minutes later, two bikes on the shoulder in the distance. Coasting up, they were repairing the top box that had broken free of its mountings and hurtled down the road into the undergrowth on the verge. It looked a sorry state, being held together by bungee cords and string.</p>\n<p>Entering Sant'ana do Livramento, I didn't know where I was going or even where I was going to stay. In my mirrors, the two riders still followed. I adopted a strategy of choosing the busiest direction at junctions before finally stopping at a likely looking central plaza, the two bikers finally passed with a wave.</p>\n<img src=\"http://lifewithglee.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/Santana-do-Livramento.jpg\" alt=\"Plaza Internacional\" class=\"wp-image-2533\"/>\n<p>Cruising around closer to the centre, I soon noticed all the buses had Uruguayan licence plates. I’d wandered too far south so turned back North ending up at the Plaza Internacional, bisected by an open border, similar to the cities of Ponto Pora and Pedro Juan Caballero on the Brazil and Paraguay border, instead flying the flags of both Brazil and Uruguay.</p>\n<img src=\"http://lifewithglee.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/Screenshot-from-2020-02-06-20-38-36.png\" alt=\"Plaza Internacional, Sant'ana do Livramento\" class=\"wp-image-2557\"/>\n<p>I settled for coffee at Restaurant Don Caggiani on the Brazilian side of the joined cities of Sant’ana do Livramento and Rivera: one urban mass bridging two countries.</p>\n<img src=\"http://lifewithglee.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/Hotel-Ermitage.jpg\" alt=\"Hotel Ermitage\" class=\"wp-image-2542\"/>\n<p>Hotel Ermitage is indicated just down the road. Short of hostels, it appeared to be the cheapest option for a few days in the city. Marcia, on reception, gave me a friendly welcome ‘sem ingles.’ A big private room, secure parking, nice breakfast… I booked 3 nights and, after dark, wandered to a mini-market for some medicinal Cachaça for taming my itchy eyes through which I could watch a movie.</p>\n<img src=\"http://lifewithglee.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/Cashaca.jpg\" alt=\"Cachaca\" class=\"wp-image-2540\"/>\n<p>The second day in Sant’ana, I checked out where immigration was located and noticed the customs at Foz do Iguaçu had given me only 30 days Temporary Import Permit on the Bike whereas I had been granted 90 days on the Passport… and I started to worry about what the penalty would be.</p>\n<img src=\"http://lifewithglee.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/Receita-Federal-1.jpg\" alt=\"Aduana\" class=\"wp-image-2541\"/>\n<p>The immigration office here is separate from customs. The map gives both an old and a new location. Brazil and Uruguay immigration is now located in a shared building but Brazil customs is the police office on Plaza Internacional with the Uruguayan Customs is some 15km south of the border on Ruta 5…</p>\n<p>I decided to take a flyer on the Brazilian Permit and skip it when I leave...<br></p>\n <br /><center><hr/><em>Posted from my blog with <a href='https://wordpress.org/plugins/steempress/'>SteemPress</a> : http://lifewithglee.com/2020/02/06/happy-port/ </em><hr/></center>",
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      "body": "<img src=\"http://lifewithglee.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/Camping-Praia-de-Pombas.jpg\" alt=\"Camping Praia das Pombas, Itapua\" class=\"wp-image-2514\"/>\n<p>A DRY WEDNESDAY 13th March had me packing away as happily as I could summon for this burdensome task, high with the risk of losing small and useful items. Last call at the Tenda do Umbu for breakfast and an internet fix before humming south down the Rota Romantica.</p>\n<ul class=\"wp-block-gallery columns-3 is-cropped\"><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><img src=\"http://lifewithglee.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/Tenda-do-Umbu.jpg\" alt=\"Mirante Picada Café\" data-id=\"2437\" data-link=\"http://lifewithglee.com/tenda-do-umbu/\" class=\"wp-image-2437\"/></li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><img src=\"http://lifewithglee.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/Tenda-do-Umbu.jpg\" alt=\"Tenda do Umbu\" data-id=\"2524\" data-link=\"http://lifewithglee.com/?attachment_id=2524\" class=\"wp-image-2524\"/></li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><img src=\"http://lifewithglee.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/Ruta-Romantica.jpg\" alt=\"Rota Romantica\" data-id=\"2444\" data-link=\"http://lifewithglee.com/ruta-romantica/\" class=\"wp-image-2444\"/></li></ul>\n<p>The air felt heavy with moisture and soon enough, condensed into tangible droplets of drizzle. Before passing through Novo Hamburgo and the borderless industrial scenery merging into Sao Leopoldo and Canoas. </p>\n<img src=\"http://lifewithglee.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/Screenshot-from-2020-01-31-18-24-14-1024x622.png\" alt=\"Porto Alegre\" class=\"wp-image-2523\"/>\n<p>Approaching Porto Alegre, the stream of traffic expanded into a 5 lane estuary along the coastal arterial 290 flowing toward central Porto Alegre.</p>\n<center><img src=\"http://lifewithglee.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/Screenshot-from-2020-01-31-18-38-37.png\" alt=\"Porto Alegre\" class=\"wp-image-2525\"/></center>\n\n<p><br>Past the colosseum-like Arena do Gremio, one of two gladiatorial Soccer bases for fierce local rivals Gremio and Internacional. Too busy to stop, I was busy with my own personal chariot race, checking mirrors and signs as the throng pushed me into the city, the priority for survival rather than to steer a predictable course. Consequently, I couldn’t swear on my route around the lanes and underpasses that brought be into the colonial interior of European looking statues and monuments of Porto Alegre.</p>\n<p>Steering into a side street to check the GPS, It felt like central London, busy with activity, cafe’s swelling with social activity. The map told me that In theory, following the river would bring me to Peter’s house. Peter had been a neighbour of dear departed Debbie in Northampton whom I’d also met years ago just before he put his house up for sale talking of maybe growing avocados in Brazil. No concept at the time I would ever get anywhere near South America. The other coincidence being the guy who bought my Rocket Red, Triumph Sprint ST upon his return from Australia turned out to be Peter's son. Small world, as they say… at least until you try riding around it.</p>\n<p>The route to exit southern Porto Alegre proved no easier than the northern route in. The River Guaiba soon disappeared from view while the streets funnelled me from traffic light to traffic light providing a labyrinthine mystery tour. Towards the river roads morphed into dirt track cul de sacs and to find my way out I followed the routes sporting speed humps.</p>\n<p>In the days before GPS, I learned from my truck driving days that Speed Humps were a reliable giveaway of a rat run for traffic between key destinations. Installed to deter through traffic, they inadvertently became a valuable clue for a way out of a city planner’s maze. And so,<br>\nI trickled south through the Porto Alegre suburbs of Tristeza and Ipanema.</p>\n<img src=\"http://lifewithglee.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/Wrong-Address-Itapua.jpg\" alt=\"Itapua\" class=\"wp-image-2508\"/>\n<p>Bright, warm and sunny when I finally arrived at the address, provided by Peter’s son but no answer to the bell at the gate, apart from a trio of barking dogs,  prompting me to return to the rustic cafe ‘Bar Cris’ about a mile back. After sipping a beer and returning to the gate, a couple pulled up in an old white Renault. They didn’t recognize the name I offered and I turned around to consider now where to stay.</p>\n<img src=\"http://lifewithglee.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/Bar-Cris.jpg\" alt=\"Cris Bar\" class=\"wp-image-2512\"/>\n<p>Opposite the Bar Cris, I'd been admiring the huge sign to Hotel Caminhas de Nazare set in vast grounds barely visible from the road over green fields. I coasted along the narrow drive with the intention of using the WiFi at the Hotel Restaurant and ordered a Coffee to neutralise the soporific effect of the earlier beer. </p>\n<img src=\"http://lifewithglee.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/Hotel-Nazare-Sign.jpg\" alt=\"Hotel Nazare Sign\" class=\"wp-image-2510\"/>\n<p>The proprietor refused payment and insisted I enjoy the coffee for free. Sending messages over the WiFi brought no prompt responses and I called it a day and booked a room at the empty hotel for a reasonable tenner. Well worth the sanctuary plus the luxury of a shower after my Ben Hur ride through Porto Alegre.</p>\n<img src=\"http://lifewithglee.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/Hotel-Nazare.jpg\" alt=\"Hotel Nazare\" class=\"wp-image-2511\"/>\n<p>Breakfast: Table for one in a restaurant for one. No further information drifting out of the ether had me bid farewell to the friendly proprietor and pause at Peter's gate for one last try. No answer, and I took off to visit the lighthouse I'd spotted on the map near Itapua.</p>\n<img src=\"http://lifewithglee.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/Nazare-Proprietors.jpg\" alt=\"Nazare Proprietors\" class=\"wp-image-2509\"/>\n<p>The Officials at the gate told me it was a government installation and wasn't open to the public but I could see it by boat… for a small fee naturally. A pickup pulled up and offered camping at his site of Camping Praia das Bombas. I followed along a bumpy remote dirt track to a deserted campsite. It was neither expensive or cheap. It was just OK, and I pitched under a shelter with the wind whipping over the expansive Guaiba River.</p>\n<img src=\"http://lifewithglee.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/Camping-Praia-de-Pombas-Tent.jpg\" alt=\"Camping Praia das Pombas \" class=\"wp-image-2513\"/>\n<p>3am, Adrianne, the partner of the owner woke me from a deep slumber and sat on the sand outside my tent nursing a glass of wine while keen on talking. Politeness prevented me from sending her away, an attractive young lady if a little inebriated. Eventually, the conversation fizzled out and I escorted her back to her home at the gate and left her hammering on the door of her house to be let in while I retreated through the shadows of the trees back to my tent.</p>\n<p>15th March, I awoke at 11 in the morning after the night's rude awaking. Nobody about. Robinson Crusoe-esque... A deserted leaf-dappled site with a couple of wrecked boats in the trees. I left a note at the gatehouse together with half a packet of cigarettes I'd found outside my tent, and set off back towards Porto Alegre, abandoning the intended rendezvous with Peter. </p>\n<p>Checking messages near Lami 10km North, there were a few downloaded complete with directions. It turns out that the address I had been given was wrong. Peter had left that one after three months of arrival in Brazil and the new directions put him closer to Itapua, not too far away.</p>\n<p>Returning south, the route took me to the yellow bus shelter given in the directions, and then between fields and up an overgrown track to a forested escarpment. A white-haired old man appeared from a shack and I surprised myself by recognising him from our brief encounter those years back.</p>\n<img src=\"http://lifewithglee.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/Bike-at-Peters.jpg\" alt=\"Peter's\" class=\"wp-image-2522\"/>\n<p>Across the yard stood a grand building built from the red eucalyptus grown in the grounds and he showed me the mezzanine floor where I could sleep complete with a mattress and bug net. Minimalist and spacious. A lot of work had gone into the construction using felled trees from his land taken to a local sawmill. </p>\n<img src=\"http://lifewithglee.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/House.jpg\" alt=\"House\" class=\"wp-image-2517\"/>\n<p>I embarked on a guided tour. Hiking up the hill, it wasn’t easy to match this man's energy. I tottered up behind him to witness the remains of a granite quarry that suddenly ceased operating because of government intervention to preserve the area. Reputedly these are the oldest hills in South America. The tracks and excavations are now swamped with rampant vegetation.</p>\n<img src=\"http://lifewithglee.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/Mattress-and-Bug-Net.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2519\"/>\n<p>Saturday 16th March. Peter made me muesli with fresh fruit which became a daily treat, and then on to meet his friends at the Marina in Itapua. Peter has a sailing background and has friends with small yachts in the shallow harbour. The Guaiba River has sandbanks so mainly shallow draught craft here. They invited me for a sail next weekend but I wasn’t planning on staying that long. We enjoyed BBQ and beer before returning home.</p>\n<img src=\"http://lifewithglee.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/Marina.jpg\" alt=\"Itapua Marina\" class=\"wp-image-2515\"/>\n<p>The following day it rained, and I spent time in the hammock sheltered on the veranda writing and sharing space with the big hairy spider that caught my eye wandering past.</p>\n<img src=\"http://lifewithglee.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/Spider.jpg\" alt=\"Spider\" class=\"wp-image-2516\"/>\n<p>We spent the following days collecting firewood from fields down the lane, battling the incessant ants undermining the buildings and carving up a fallen red eucalyptus in the garden. </p>\n<img src=\"http://lifewithglee.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/Red-Eucalyptus.jpg\" alt=\"Wood Gathering\" class=\"wp-image-2520\"/>\n<p>I left on the 20th becoming paranoid that overstaying my welcome might become an issue. One more Buffet Livre together. Cheap and good food at the local restaurant. And then I set off, after photographing a map of the region to help with my lack of GPS. Peter recommended the route To Santana de Livramento on the Uruguay Border, instead of the more obvious route to Jaguarao and Rio Blanco. And with that being my plan, I returned north to Porto Alegre.</p>\n<img src=\"http://lifewithglee.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/Peter-and-Me.jpg\" alt=\"Peter and Me\" class=\"wp-image-2521\"/>\n<img src=\"http://lifewithglee.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/Map.jpg\" alt=\"Map\" class=\"wp-image-2518\"/>\n <br /><center><hr/><em>Posted from my blog with <a href='https://wordpress.org/plugins/steempress/'>SteemPress</a> : http://lifewithglee.com/2020/01/31/itapua/ </em><hr/></center>",
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      "body": "<img src=\"http://lifewithglee.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/Tenda-do-Umbu.jpg\" alt=\"Mirante Picada Café\" class=\"wp-image-2437\"/>\n<p>EIGHTH OF MARCH. Autumn in the Southern hemisphere. Poking my head out the flap to dewy grey weather over a layby on the Rota Romântica. Slim chance of drying out the tent anytime soon so I pack up the soaking wet camp, pronto, and ride the 300 metres up the road for breakfast at the Tenda do Umbu to recharge myself and my laptop. </p>\n<p>Emerging an hour or two later into dry air, refuelled coffee and up to date up on messages, I return north across the valley to visit Nova Petropolis. The day glows bright and warm as I cruise around the town. It's a pretty enough place, clean and Germanic, but there's nothing for me here. Too touristy. I have lunch at Cafe Colonia Serra Verde. I thought that meant 'Cafe' but 'Cafe Colonia' is a kind of full buffet. In the south region of&nbsp;Brazil, sweets and cakes feature at breakfast.&nbsp;Colonial Coffee&nbsp;is a type of breakfast that is almost exclusive to the south and means colonial&nbsp;breakfast. It looked to me like a wedding feast with me as the only guest. Too much for me to eat but the staff were kind enough to offer me a slice of cake and a coffee. </p>\n<img src=\"http://lifewithglee.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/Screenshot-from-2020-01-05-20-19-20.png\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2495\"/>\n<p>Humbly finishing up and thanking the staff for their attention, I hit the road the 70km to Bento Gonçalves. The road sweeps north down billiard table smooth curves with vistas of distant waterfalls and up again towards Caxias do Sul, where the traffic thickens and becomes aggressive in the usual nature of large cities.&nbsp;</p>\n<img src=\"http://lifewithglee.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/Screenshot-from-2020-01-07-13-33-19.png\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2493\"/>\n<p>From there, the road to Bento Gonçalves is fast and furious with trucks buses and cars. The promising looking wild camping site found on iOverlander looks unappealingly industrial and too close to this busy route, and I head straight into Bento Gonçalves.</p>\n<img src=\"http://lifewithglee.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/Screenshot-from-2020-01-04-19-02-03.png\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2496\"/>\n<p>Late afternoon with nowhere to stay, wandering down a street looking for somewhere for a coffee and WiFi for searching for accommodation, I catch sight of a couple of adventure bikes, a Ducati Multistrada and BMW GS parked outside the Dall’Onder Grande hotel. After coasting by, I slowly U-turn amongst the slowly drifting traffic, coast onto the forecourt and introduce myself to Renato, Gennaro and Regiane. </p>\n<img src=\"http://lifewithglee.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/Regiane.jpg\" alt=\"Renato, Gennaro and Regiane.\" class=\"wp-image-2499\"/>\n<ul class=\"wp-block-gallery columns-2 is-cropped\"><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><img src=\"http://lifewithglee.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/Dallondor-bikes.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"2491\" data-link=\"http://lifewithglee.com/dallondor-bikes/\" class=\"wp-image-2491\"/></li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><img src=\"http://lifewithglee.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/DallOnder-Yanaha.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"2490\" data-link=\"http://lifewithglee.com/dallonder-yanaha/\" class=\"wp-image-2490\"/></li></ul>\n<p>Renato speaks comprehensive English and offers me wine, but I only accept the cheese as first hours in a new city are the most vulnerable for me. It feels great to be in the company of this chilled trio, different from the family feeling of the Ruppenthals back in Tres Coroas but equally enjoyable. I am warmly welcomed to their table. Eventually, I have to apologise for my rudeness and connect to the hotel’s WiFi to search for accommodation and while the Dall’Onder would be a real treat, a night at Pousada Thiany a couple of km away landed within my budget.</p>\n<img src=\"http://lifewithglee.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/Hostel-Thiany.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2486\"/>\n<p>I socialise for a while longer before I'm reluctantly navigating the twilight to the hostel.&nbsp; Booking in, I'm handed a remote key for the basement parking area. I can come and go at will and I click the up and over door into lice and roll down the ramp clicking it closed behind me before unpacking the dewy tent and draping over the bike to dry,</p>\n<img src=\"http://lifewithglee.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/Dewy-Tent.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2489\"/>\n<p>This is a hotel with the ground floor at the back partitioned into cubicles. We hostel clients enjoy the exact same benefits of the privateers, barring seclusion and ensuites. The lobby is clean, spacious and comfortable as you would expect from a self-respecting hotel. Fruit, grapes and tea are free and I spend a bit of time in the lobby blogging, grazing on grapes before venturing out to a food court in a nearby mall for a vegeburger.</p>\n<img src=\"http://lifewithglee.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/Cubicle.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2487\"/>\n<p>A British kind of rain sets in all day. After breakfast, I take advantage of the facilities to catch up on writing while grazing on grapes. </p>\n<p>2am, I wake with a raging fever and boiling, liquid stomach ache. I don't really want to cause a disturbance in the middle of the night but I pad along the corridor barefoot, triggering the motion sensors for the blue LED lights that spill over the partitions of the cubicles, scuttle across the animal skin rug in the hostel lounge and just make it to the bathroom. </p>\n<p>Relieved after the purge but feeling ill to my core. Unsure whether or not this is the end of a phase, I curl up quietly groaning on the couch beside the door to the bathroom, wishing I had brought a blanket but not daring to stray too far to fetch one. After a time, the cold air over my skin suggests the storm has passed and I pad back down the hall, flicking on the blue LED glow and to bed to crawl under the covers.</p>\n<center><img src=\"http://lifewithglee.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/Herbs.jpg\" alt=\"Tree of Marcela in the centre of the table of herbs\" class=\"wp-image-2488\"/></center>\n\n<p>Late for breakfast in the lobby late morning for tea. I book more nights and say I'm not well. Maria, the owner, instantly recommends Marcela tea and cuts off a few home-grown twigs and drops it into an infusion. Pretty soon I feel miraculously better.</p>\n<img src=\"http://lifewithglee.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/Herbs-Outside.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2485\"/>\n<p>Later, the sun peeps through the soggy blanket of cloud and I venture to the laundry and get my much-needed batch washed. Still feeling a little fragile, I turn in early to update my blog in comfort. </p>\n<p>While sitting up in bed, I feel something fall like a beer mat on my neck. I brushed it off and looked around and there was a huge spindly brown spider on the wall the size of my hand. I blew on it expecting it to lumber away but it moved so fast it resembled a magic vanishing trick. It shot under the bed amongst my stored bags. Apparently, March is spider month and spiders in Brazil can be fairly dangerous.</p>\n<p>Twelfth of March and I remember it's my sister's birthday and make a Skype call in the brief interval between breakfast and check out, I set off at 1pm remembering to swing by and collect laundry. I avoid Caxias do Sul in preference of the route back to Tenda do Umbu via Garibaldi, Bom Principio, Feliz and Linha Nova. </p>\n<p>With the rainy weather and everything else, I never felt inspired enough to visit the main attraction of Bento Gonçalves: the wineries. Now I had resolved to return to my southerly course, the clouds dispersed and revealed the warm brightness of the Brazilian sunshine.</p>\n<img src=\"http://lifewithglee.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/Screenshot-from-2020-01-07-13-38-13.png\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2494\"/>\n<p>I'd memorised how the key junctions looked on Google street view but things had changed between the visit of the Google car and now. An unfamiliar junction appeared near Linha Nova. No worries, I had preloaded the web page so I could check the map on the laptop but it had switched itself off and boots up to a fresh session losing all my stored browser pages. </p>\n<p>This means no maps until WiFi so I have to guess whether this is the junction where I'm meant to turn left or whether to keep following the signs to Novo Hamburgo... It's a 50/50 decision so naturally, I choose the wrong one and I turn right to Presidente Lucena.  Entering the town, I take advantage of the uncertainty to grab a pastel, coke and WiFi at a Bar y Lancheria opposite the school. </p>\n<p>Tenda do Umbu lies only 13km away despite the wrong turning and, after my refreshments, I backtrack past the junction, along the valley floor and up the hill to Tenda do Umbu and plug the laptop into its life-support before enjoying a coffee.</p>\n<img src=\"http://lifewithglee.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/Carlos.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2484\"/>\n<p>Carlos and his wife from Sao Leopoldo are on a ride out relaxing at Tenda do Umbu, and we talk about bikes, adventure and the Rota Romântica, after they leave and before dusk, I return full circle to where I'd started my mini adventure to Bento Gonçalves: the layby down the road at Mirante Picada Café. This time there is a car with a couple picnicking at the opposite side of the plateau, but I pitch the tent and settle inside as quietly as possible and pretend I'm not noticed. </p>\n<p>The car leaves after dark and a few minutes later, footsteps heard across the grass and the splash of a flashlight over tent fabric as someone browses my pitch. Maybe just a curious passer-by, maybe something worse? </p>\n<p>I lay quiet. This is worse than beer mat sized spiders and shrieks in the woods. You never can be sure of the intention of humans, the most dangerous creatures in the world...</p>\n<img src=\"http://lifewithglee.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/Tenda-do-Umbu-Noite.jpg\" alt=\"Mirante Picada Café\" class=\"wp-image-2435\"/>\n<p></p>\n <br /><center><hr/><em>Posted from my blog with <a href='https://wordpress.org/plugins/steempress/'>SteemPress</a> : http://lifewithglee.com/2020/01/07/bento-goncalves/ </em><hr/></center>",
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