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      "title": "Colombia's Pacific Coast, the forgotten land (6.9.-14.9.2017)",
      "body": "Already the trip to \"Chocó\" felt adventurous: from Bogotá we took a small airplane that flew over the Andes to Chocó's capital \"Quibdo\" in the middle of the rain forest. After 6 hours of waiting, because of bad weather conditions, we continued our flight in an even smaller propeller-airplane over the green jungle to \"Bahía Solano\", on the pacific coast of Colombia, and from there we took a Tuk-tuk to the little town of \"El Valle\".\n\n![IMG_4313.JPG](https://steemitimages.com/DQmPj1kUxBhLQ2MmChmifAAF756gAhhVnHJLxUyQzEZqp5s/IMG_4313.JPG)\n\nIf I hadn't known better, I would have thought I was in a town in the middle of Africa (at least the way I imagine a town in Africa, cause I've never been there ;)). Wooden huts with metallic roofs, muddy dirt roads, lush vegetation and an almost exclusive Afro-Colombian population. Soon, we knew almost everybody by name: every day we ate in the little kitchen of Rosalía (a real Afro-Mama who cooked the best dishes); Isidro, who showed us some beautiful waterfalls, natural aquariums and baby-turtles; we slept in the house of the beautiful Alia and her family; Fidel took us on a whale watching tour; and we traveled with Edgar and his family in his boat to Punta Huina. \n\n![IMG_4316.JPG](https://steemitimages.com/DQmYr2G7gWMjvfNtpafeLDb7QU3TfnKqnhwc8gjit3FLqYd/IMG_4316.JPG)\nThe entrance to \"el valle\"\n\n![IMG_4347.JPG](https://steemitimages.com/DQmPhQYHvwCCatTsdYJr1rqhVci6iVwRB1bpcC4JoqEMWth/IMG_4347.JPG)\n\"El almejal\" beach\n\n![IMG_4355.JPG](https://steemitimages.com/DQmYsc2zyoVVNa9ffw1zZWUjrUUpdeDqvZDz9nGfsr4DdGj/IMG_4355.JPG)\nSunset at \"Cuevita\"\n\n![IMG_4362.JPG](https://steemitimages.com/DQmbE8BktUfHhsM7Z4M4qVz3zJFYEp39vp33keGKzJ1WyXN/IMG_4362.JPG)\nBridge across the river\n\n![IMG_4379.JPG](https://steemitimages.com/DQmP6FTE3GmyzkWb4MoNs58Crsqr3vHyHy6Biv2xFhseMYx/IMG_4379.JPG)\nThermal pool at \"Jurubidá\"\n\n![IMG_4412.JPG](https://steemitimages.com/DQmfYJYffddrNWiBVrMpV4zXMNYZ4P5xeq4beTqFqMiA6Gf/IMG_4412.JPG)\nBahia Solano's port\n\n![IMG_4435.JPG](https://steemitimages.com/DQmQPe5eQ7Seu3VMQEyYTtq9ktgz6tKao2atYumTtTKuqaV/IMG_4435.JPG)\nPlaya larga\n\nAfter some days we decided to keep on going to a town called \"Termales\", where we finally escaped from the endless rain. Termales is a hidden paradise: only a couple of houses on a soft sandy beach, the thick jungle in the background and the pacific ocean shining in shades of emerald green with whales jumping in the distance. \n\n![IMG_4446.JPG](https://steemitimages.com/DQmYVna9fcpygjTmDjeY7DC8dMPopFhgpYrn4t6sY9ecZLy/IMG_4446.JPG)\nTermales beach\n\n![IMG_4473.JPG](https://steemitimages.com/DQmTyCfZV56wj4Cm91BxjyvonoG7tUE3pPCvTPzDrLhK7uy/IMG_4473.JPG)\nSunset at Termales \n\nWe stayed in the cabin of Salomon. During our stay, we ate the delicious food of Salomons´s wife: fish cooked with local herbs and coconut water, with a sidedish of coconut rice.\n\n\n\nEverything seemed peaceful in Termales... until a horde of little children attacked us! They grabbed our cameras, sunglasses and hats and started using them to pose for pictures. They buried us into the sand and made us play with them until the sun came down and their moms took them away. \n\nThe next day we enjoyed the warm waters of the termal pools, and had a soothing herbal massage inside a wooden cannoo. Unfortunately our stay in this lovely beach ended too soon and after the second night we headed back to Nuquí. \n\nOther than the airport and the multiple boats that connect the region, this town has not much to offer. Nonetheless, we spent a wonderful day in la \"Cevicheria\" with the owners Oscar and his wife Lucy, Gabriel (Lucy's father) and the fantastic, crazy poet Emilio, who shared their insights and stories about life in the Pacific coast... and more than one beer in between. Thanks to them, Nuquí turned out to be much better than expected. \n\nChocó is known as the forgotten land, a dangerous place full with Narcos and drug smugglers that deal with Panama and México, and somewhere deep in the jungle, that is still part of the reality. Even the fishermen still gain a bit of extra money by fishing the packages that the Narcos throw away when they get caught. However, for the regular traveler, these towns are safe, very friendly and a great place to discover a relaxed lifestyle by the sea.",
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      "body": "Already the trip to \"Chocó\" felt adventurous: from Bogotá we took a small airplane that flew over the Andes to Chocó's capital \"Quibdo\" in the middle of the rain forest. After 6 hours of waiting, because of bad weather conditions, we continued our flight in an even smaller propeller-airplane over the green jungle to \"Bahía Solano\", on the pacific coast of Colombia, and from there we took a Tuk-tuk to the little town of \"El Valle\".\n\n![IMG_4313.JPG](https://steemitimages.com/DQmPj1kUxBhLQ2MmChmifAAF756gAhhVnHJLxUyQzEZqp5s/IMG_4313.JPG)\n\nIf I hadn't known better, I would have thought I was in a town in the middle of Africa (at least the way I imagine a town in Africa, cause I've never been there ;)). Wooden huts with metallic roofs, muddy dirt roads, lush vegetation and an almost exclusive Afro-Colombian population. Soon, we knew almost everybody by name: every day we ate in the little kitchen of Rosalía (a real Afro-Mama who cooked the best dishes); Isidro, who showed us some beautiful waterfalls, natural aquariums and baby-turtles; we slept in the house of the beautiful Alia and her family; Fidel took us on a whale watching tour; and we traveled with Edgar and his family in his boat to Punta Huina. \n\n![IMG_4316.JPG](https://steemitimages.com/DQmYr2G7gWMjvfNtpafeLDb7QU3TfnKqnhwc8gjit3FLqYd/IMG_4316.JPG)\nThe entrance to \"el valle\"\n\n![IMG_4347.JPG](https://steemitimages.com/DQmPhQYHvwCCatTsdYJr1rqhVci6iVwRB1bpcC4JoqEMWth/IMG_4347.JPG)\n\"El almejal\" beach\n\n![IMG_4355.JPG](https://steemitimages.com/DQmYsc2zyoVVNa9ffw1zZWUjrUUpdeDqvZDz9nGfsr4DdGj/IMG_4355.JPG)\nSunset at \"Cuevita\"\n\n![IMG_4362.JPG](https://steemitimages.com/DQmbE8BktUfHhsM7Z4M4qVz3zJFYEp39vp33keGKzJ1WyXN/IMG_4362.JPG)\nBridge across the river\n\n![IMG_4379.JPG](https://steemitimages.com/DQmP6FTE3GmyzkWb4MoNs58Crsqr3vHyHy6Biv2xFhseMYx/IMG_4379.JPG)\nThermal pool at \"Jurubidá\"\n\n![IMG_4412.JPG](https://steemitimages.com/DQmfYJYffddrNWiBVrMpV4zXMNYZ4P5xeq4beTqFqMiA6Gf/IMG_4412.JPG)\nBahia Solano's port\n\n![IMG_4435.JPG](https://steemitimages.com/DQmQPe5eQ7Seu3VMQEyYTtq9ktgz6tKao2atYumTtTKuqaV/IMG_4435.JPG)\nPlaya larga\n\nAfter some days we decided to keep on going to a town called \"Termales\", where we finally escaped from the endless rain. Termales is a hidden paradise: only a couple of houses on a soft sandy beach, the thick jungle in the background and the pacific ocean shining in shades of emerald green with whales jumping in the distance. \n\n![IMG_4446.JPG](https://steemitimages.com/DQmYVna9fcpygjTmDjeY7DC8dMPopFhgpYrn4t6sY9ecZLy/IMG_4446.JPG)\nTermales beach\n\n![IMG_4473.JPG](https://steemitimages.com/DQmTyCfZV56wj4Cm91BxjyvonoG7tUE3pPCvTPzDrLhK7uy/IMG_4473.JPG)\nSunset at Termales \n\nWe stayed in the cabin of Salomon. During our stay, we ate the delicious food of Salomons´s wife: fish cooked with local herbs and coconut water, with a sidedish of coconut rice.\n\n\n\nEverything seemed peaceful in Termales... until a horde of little children attacked us! They grabbed our cameras, sunglasses and hats and started using them to pose for pictures. They buried us into the sand and made us play with them until the sun came down and their moms took them away. \n\nThe next day we enjoyed the warm waters of the termal pools, and had a soothing herbal massage inside a wooden cannoo. Unfortunately our stay in this lovely beach ended too soon and after the second night we headed back to Nuquí. \n\nOther than the airport and the multiple boats that connect the region, this town has not much to offer. Nonetheless, we spent a wonderful day in la \"Cevicheria\" with the owners Oscar and his wife Lucy, Gabriel (Lucy's father) and the fantastic, crazy poet Emilio, who shared their insights and stories about life in the Pacific coast... and more than one beer in between. Thanks to them, Nuquí turned out to be much better than expected. \n\nChocó is known as the forgotten land, a dangerous place full with Narcos and drug smugglers that deal with Panama and México, and somewhere deep in the jungle, that is still part of the reality. Even the fishermen still gain a bit of extra money by fishing the packages that the Narcos throw away when they get caught. However, for the regular traveler, these towns are safe, very friendly and a great place to discover a relaxed lifestyle by the sea.",
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      "title": "Holy visits in Bogota",
      "body": "![IMG_2238.JPG](https://steemitimages.com/DQmRPYSjTWvsLokCBQ9vRQezmkA9hR6tUBmTgKB1cKt8aNv/IMG_2238.JPG)\n\nHector: Thirty six hours after leaving the city of Bremen we arrived in Bogota, and the first thing our taxi driver told us that \"el papa\" (the pope not the potato) was going to be in the city and that everything was being prepared for his arrival, meaning that: the streets were he was going to circulate were repaired and cleaned, there were additional police forces around the streets to ensure safety, etc. Furthermore, later that day speaking with a homeless man he told me that the police were taking away the homeless people of the city center, in an attempt to\"hide\" them from the holy eyes. The visit of the pope will cost the country aprox. US$1.5 million per day, and many of the people I spoke with were clearly against it, since the country has more urgent needs like handling the crisis with his neighboring country: Venezuela. \n\n![IMG_4247.JPG](https://steemitimages.com/DQmYxpcfdDauoKYj4hU4GNWPJKjoZPms9amq7FWM36wTsAR/IMG_4247.JPG)\n\nWe are not religious people and we decided to get out of the city, at latest, on the day of the pope's arrival, in order to avoid the traffic chaos and the millions of people that would come for the visit.\nWe stayed in a hotel in the center of the city, in the neighborhood \"la candelaria\", and our first walk took us to the main square \"Plaza Bolivar\". This place reminded me of my \"Zocalo\" in Mexico City, with the Cathedral of the City and the Presidential Palace standing next to each other in a competition to see who's really in charge. The streets that lead to the church were full with musicians, street performers and food, lots of food. Amongst them the \"aromático\" and \"canelazo\" were my favorites: the former is a hot fruit punch and the latter is the same but with \"aguardiente\", an alcohol similar to rum that spices up the drink.\n\n![IMG_4278.JPG](https://steemitimages.com/DQmYehG8ZYfy96XbmNNviN7HJCnAp7LGzEemCMGJjpU1Py2/IMG_4278.jpg)\n\nIn a small street that runs down from plaza Bolivar, we found one of my favorite places in the city: \"Escuela de Baristas\"; the place were all my coffee fantasies came true. The place specializes in coffee, and has grains from every region in colombia, that can be prepared in more than ten different ways: turkish, italian, japanese, german, etc. After my first visit, I knew that I didn't need to look further, this was the place were I had coffee for the rest of my stay in Bogota.\n\n![IMG_4271.JPG](https://steemitimages.com/DQmVTHewLd9eEsLeRVc4v8xgfrRXCZHC5x6nJgt3xXZgTQd/IMG_4271.JPG)\n\nMarieke: Ok.. Hector, now I also wanna say something to our readers, I will take over from now :) :what else can I say about Bogota? Well, one day we went up the mountain next to La Candelaria which is called Montserrat. You can either walk up, take the cable car or go with a train up to the top. 1.5 hours, 4 new friends (while waiting in the line we made friends with some people from Barranquilla who told us interesting stories about a half-crocodile-half-man-thing living there) and a trip with the cable car later we stood in front of the church above with a wonderful view over the city of Bogota. Half an hour later we walked back down where we met some people from the THW who are working for the UN in Colombia and we had to think of our friend Magda who is doing the training for the THW back in Bremen.\n\n![IMG_4296.JPG](https://steemitimages.com/DQmZWrCEkhgdTAcAsttFaKC4yaL5PxneMRfHPeEka5bSCrx/IMG_4296.JPG)\n\nOn our third day we organized a trip with 2 girls from England and Uber to the town of Zipaquirá aprox. 1.5 hours from Bogota. There you can find the \"Catedral del Sal\", a cathedral deep down in a salt mine. Everybody who saw \"The Hobbit\" and remembers how the dwarfs live in the mountain, can imagine how it feels to walk around the corridors and halls under the ground. With the sound of singing dwarfs and the idea, that somewhere around the corner I can find the hidden treasure chamber guarded by a giant dragon, in my head, I was overwhelmed by the beauty of that cathedral. Unfortunately, instead of the treasure chamber, we found something almost similar: an under-earth shopping-hall full of artesanias shops, a light show (not so good) and an so called \"emerald museum\" (which was not more than an emerald shop). It felt like an alarm at 6 on a Monday morning ripping you off from wonderful dwarf-dreams. After coming out of the shopping-mine we took the little tourist train to the center of Zipaquirá. Standing around at the main square some little girls became curious about us and started a philosophical conversation about aims in life \"O-Ton\" (German expression to say \"in their own words\" I think it does not exist in English, but now it is defined ;)): I wanna become a veterinarian or a doctor when I am older. The career of a model or an actress is pointless and a hard business) and relationships (O-Ton: (to Hector): please , don´t feel offended, but guys they just want to have sex with you) and showed us around the little town before we good an Uber back to Bogota.\n\n![IMG_2252.JPG](https://steemitimages.com/DQmbnA4fLz8FnF49svFrfjwjub798ufvPE7Gr9Nzg7q9n2g/IMG_2252.JPG)\n\nHector: In this trip we wanted to remain flexible and therefore we didn't book anything in advance... and this has worked for us so far. Plan A was to reach the Caribbean coast of the country and go to \"Ciudad Perdida\", but the indigenous tribes do their ceremonies during September and the ruins are closed for tourists. Plan B was to go to Caños Cristales, the famous multicolor river... but the water level of the river was too low to appreciate it's beauty. For Plan C, we decided to continue through one of the most isolated areas in Colombia: the Pacific Coast in \"El Choco\". But this is another story...",
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      "author": "aphector",
      "permlink": "of-ends-and-new-beginnings",
      "title": "Of ends and new beginnings",
      "body": "This is not the first time I leave a place that I called home for a long time, and it always reminds me of the good thigs I leave behind.\n\nOne day before our flight (31.09.17), we invited some of our friends for a goodbye toast, and for this purpose we bought a couple of bottles of white sparkling wine to make \"Agua de Valencia\". The night was supposed to be easy and relaxed because everyboday ahd to work on the next day... four bottles of wine later, spiced up with tequila, rum, aperol and korn made the night unforgettable. Carlos, Marina, Ana, Bea, Pedro, Mayli, Magda and Jan, I hope the hangover wasn't bad!\n\n![IMG_4181.JPG](https://steemitimages.com/DQmT2U29qHJkyY8UwVoPfKtFuqKksh91hSDQ5CmtKbrVQp4/IMG_4181.JPG)\n\nOn the day of the flight, our good friend -and caretaker of our house while we are away- took us to the train station. \n\n![IMG_4213.JPG](https://steemitimages.com/DQmZEMWyLPkAk4x4GtUvnAUn6GQeDJctm3GgysnywTdHARH/IMG_4213.JPG)\n\nOn the station, Alex and Julia were waiting for us to say their goodbyes.\n\n![IMG_4218.JPG](https://steemitimages.com/DQmccxL1qfr6SXXvgvKPVeAKxs83aMzohrHGjU3bZjAiqbF/IMG_4218.JPG)\n\nIn Amsterdam's airport we shared some last minute beers with Gandolfo, one of my dearest on this side the earth.\n\n![IMG_4230.JPG](https://steemitimages.com/DQmez7Vjj4RBTpurgMCjQn9qx8R6J45iTxDpnfCMHwnh4Qy/IMG_4230.JPG)\n\nIn summary, our way out was paved with good friends, and in my mind they are the best reason to come back to Bremen.",
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