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      "body": "Have you ever heard of a banana circle?  It was a recent discovery of mine and one I wondered about for quite some time before deciding to actually install one myself.  Bananas are cheap so I figured it would be best to dedicate the room to other types of fruit trees instead of bananas that only produce once and then die.  However, there are many benefits to having a banana circle that may entice you to consider one or more into your permaculture design.\n\n__*So what exactly is a banana circle you may be asking?*__\n\nWell, a banana circle is much more than a group of bananas planted in a circle. A banana circle is a permaculture designed guild that incorporates many functions, many products and many benefits!   A banana circle is an installation that usually takes up about a 6-foot wide circle and is planted with bananas and/or plantains around the circumference of that circle.  Also grown with the bananas are sweet potatoes, comfrey, taro, lemongrass and sometimes other specimens as well as a compost pit.  More on that later.\n\n__*What are the benefits of a banana circle?*__\n\nWell, there are many!  First, is the beneficial relationships between the different species of plants.  The bananas obviously produce delicious fruit, more so than just the Cavendish you would buy at your local grocer.  The beauty of the banana tree is also very relaxing, giving the feeling you're at a tropical resort, especially when the bananas are flowering/producing!  The lovely scent of the lemongrass when brushed against and the beauty and tastiness of the sweet potato greens as the sprawl and climb up the bananas as well as the tropical look of the taro and the medicinal and mineral uses of the comfrey are all just a few of the benefits.  Don't forget the mulch pile as well.  Having a place to throw all your excess trimmings is a great convenience!\n\nYou can think of the banana circle as a type of 3 sisters garden in the fact it each plant provides benefits to the others. The bananas provide much-needed shade for the comfrey and taro and a climbing surface for the sweet potatoes. The comfrey provided much need nutrients and mulch to the bananas as well as a weed barrier to the circle.  The lemongrass also provides mulch and weed barrier and they both have their uses outside the circle as well.  Comfrey is a great medicinal and lemongrass is a great culinary herb.  The sweet potato provides a living mulch to the system, shading the soil and shading out weeds while being a delicious green vegetable to eat as well.  The taro is an added bonus and an alternative to the white potato that is not as healthy.\n\n__*Let's talk about the actual build.*__\n\nSo you've decided you want a banana circle.  How do you go about building it? There are many different opinions on this but the best way is the dimensions listed above.  The reason for this is 2 fold.  The first reason is so that the bananas have room to grow without crowding out other elements in the system and the second is so that the compost/mulch pit has enough mass to heat up and quickly decompose the material being input.  This compost pit will not be turned and you do not have to worry about the C:N (carbon-nitrogen) ratio as you would normally in a typical compost manufacture. Another reason for this diameter is so that you can easily reach the middle from anywhere outside the circle.  The other thing to realize is that I said mulch pit, not mulch pile.  This 6-foot circle needs to be dug out 3 feet deep.  So watch me as I build the banana circle.\n\nThe first thing you need to do is choose the location.  Bananas are heavy feeders and need constant moisture.  They do best in with partial shade - full sun which basically means they'll do great in any light situation, however, they will grow faster with more sun although you must realize that the more sun they'll receive the more water they'll need due to their extremely large leaves.  I chose a location that is low-lying and downstream from my rabbits and chickens in order to receive plenty of nutrient-filled water.  The circle is also under a huge male mulberry tree and will only receive evening sun.  So far this location has done absolutely fantastic.\n\n![](https://steemitimages.com/DQmRkyJFsWfvAu8vf7QG9q93Y3ddLVHX2FPwgrSS7PB526R/image.png)\n*Starting location was lowest lying area on the property and will receive runoff from my rabbits and chickens. It is also shaded most of the day.*\n\nThe next step is to clear the area and mark the layout of the circle so you know where to dig.  The shape does not have to be a perfect circle, just a closed loop, use whatever space you've got.\n\n\n![](https://steemitimages.com/DQmcrePSzCGwGQizxRWVMp3hwWyqt4r4Rw9E8Ahwo5JRsaB/image.png)Layout of *Inner 6-foot circle and outer circle where the fill will go.*\n\nAfter that, start digging!\n\n![](https://steemitimages.com/DQmT8xWa5Knb2DGDswwZMqSzcXhBqt5g8Jsv88dwUov5eWa/image.png)\n\n\n![](https://steemitimages.com/DQmQJVrHQdd2d5XF7TxHLYmKpt7uzc6n8zfwGwrEjm1KwD9/image.png)\n*I laid cardboard down to help prevent weeds from coming up from underneath. Geoff Lawton commented on this and said to remove the cardboard as it is unnecessary. However, I got his message too late so the cardboard remained. I made sure it was soaked before adding soil to the top of it.*\n\nAfter that, just keep digging!\n\n![](https://steemitimages.com/DQmebwus6VgonJoouZr4F7ZsaM75xG8uGP5xr8hXh3nwB6N/image.png)\n\n![](https://steemitimages.com/DQmcEAwNYHSqHw3tRxhKbhPfcQ9jcWcw6R2fbvY2WMckMja/image.png)\n\n![](https://steemitimages.com/DQmQ1VkFX2rPLvQYeiZiLCAXEpbRUhZWejGB1s28B2CEYKG/image.png)\n*Once the topsoil was all removed and mounded around the outside of the pit, I began removing the clay subsoil. This was used in other parts of our property.*\n\n\n![](https://steemitimages.com/DQmXCxEo9Asjh6BSAsr3uRq8xbCuwvYVRSb7RS7csjLp88N/image.png)\n*It's a LOT digging! Notice all the roots that were removed. I always suggest sharpening a shovel with a grinder before starting such a project. Always be thinking of wires and pipes as well. I thought I had chosen a location far enough out of the way of my DSL line but I found it! I didn't cut it but I did have to very carefully dig around it, especially with a sharpened shovel!*\n\n![](https://steemitimages.com/DQmQE6wnRtsh4HA2tAw69X9LP13XdChiuMpDSg7YLhN6mnQ/image.png)\n*Geoff Lawton also was leery of this picture, as he says a forest grows on a fallen forest. However, bananas are not actual trees, they are herbs and he was concerned this would absorb too much nitrogen and the bananas would not fare well. However, these pine logs were 4 years old and had almost completely decomposed. I could break them apart with my hands.*\n\n![](https://steemitimages.com/DQmUMpGJqnDBELkQ6PxZbVRoRpK8bfEPEUXV1C3C6MV7w7N/image.png)\n*I didn't get a picture, but I covered the logs with a straw bale, which you can see some of it coming through the compost here. I then covered the whole thing with a few inches of high quality compost. Geoff also said this was unnecessary, but since I had it and I wanted a great start, I went ahead with the compost layer.*\n\n![](https://steemitimages.com/DQmdLKu8b7ZfyS3eKtX6Gz4HrxYgVLqgYTeqdg26TpNtKFM/image.png)\n*Topped with a bit of compost activator, the magnificent comfrey. I took out a couple of plants from other areas, root divided them and left the leaves in the center of the pile and plugged the root divisions into the outer base of the mound. Lemongrass plugs were installed alternating as well. There are 6 lemongrass and 15 comfrey plugs.*\n\n![](https://steemitimages.com/DQmZpuEYK1GrKoTApHk4dji5LsyibRhdw2eYDEnQoMwFkGg/image.png)\n*Baby bananas going in at an outward angle to make harvesting easier.\nA very important aspect of a banana circle is the mulch pit as I stated earlier. Now it should turn into a mound.  The mound should be so big it is spilling over the sides of the outer ring.  This mound will be continously added to as more mulch becomes available from other parts of your property.*\n\n![](https://steemitimages.com/DQmQ3KmDXdEsztk5fxwMLRqbucBX78bMFqSQoFcAvux3hdB/image.png)\n*Another bale of straw atop the comfrey leaves for even more mulch and a temporary fence wraps the exterior to keep the dogs and chickens out until established.*\n\n![](https://steemitimages.com/DQmaYLF1RGX2sFpReZmMaB5PfuMgdKy2bvpUmeKTAUuhBKm/image.png)\n*After only 2 weeks!*\n\n![](https://steemitimages.com/DQmbotEZfVQEfSadw9nndyKDtbmH8LJ9Z8EyECwLrxB5b2E/image.png)\n*After 1 month!*\n\n![](https://steemitimages.com/DQmekmzuC3V1tmqhW2HEmndvK1uYoc6tPLrmg8D7d1Qqfpo/image.png)\n*After 2 months! The growth is amazing!*\n\n__*Other things to know about banana circles.*__\n\nAs stated in 1 of the captions above, bananas are not actual trees, but rather the world's largest herbs and they are all sterile at this point in history so they cannot propagate by seed.  They are like a pineapple in that they will grow up, mature and produce fruit only once, then die.  Before dying, however, they will give off multiple pups.  There are 2 types of pups, called water suckers and sword suckers.  They are easily identifiable because sword suckers leaves look like, well, swords!  Water suckers have very broad leaves very young and do not grow as fast as sword suckers.  Water suckers should be cut off the corm and discarded or repotted and grown out to eventually produce a sword sucker but that process takes a very long time.\n\nMaintenance of the circle is very interesting as what we are going to do is have the bananas walk around the circle.  What?!  Bananas walk?  Yes, they will!  I told you about the suckers that come up from around the base of the mother plant.  We are going to pick a direction for the bananas to walk, either clockwise or counter-clockwise.  Whenever a sword sucker comes up on the side we choose, we will leave it and whenever a sucker comes up on the opposite side, we will remove it and pot it up for sale or transplant.  In this way, the bananas will continuously \"walk\" around the circle indefinitely!\n\nWatch the video below for a visual about the differences...\nhttps://youtu.be/4bjK7z-EpZE\n\n\n\n__*Another thing to know...*__\n\nis that we should really only leave the mother and a daughter plant living in the circle, with perhaps a grand-daughter plant as well if you wish but just the mother and daughter is advisable.  When these plants are established and the original plants have produced, it is time to chop and drop the older banana plants into the mulch pit.  This chop and drop technique is a permaculture technique that follows the 3rd ethic, which is Return of Surplus.\n\nNow you might be thinking, what about the sweet potatoes?  You said something about green vegetables.  That's right, the sweet potato greens are extremely delicious, very nutritous and will thrive in the heat that these tropical plants love and where growing any type of standard leafy greens like lettuce, kale and spinach just won't survive the summers.  However, we all know and love the sweet orange flesh of a sweet potato tuber.  These are not harvested at a specific time like you normally would in a garden bed but instead are harvested either as needed, a few at a time or when actually propagating the sword suckers because you will be digging in the same area as the potatoes, you will incidentally be harvesting these sweet potatoes all year.\n\nSo, there you have it, everything needed to know to start your own banana circle.  Go forth and make your own tropical paradise in your backyard!\n\nBy the way, this can also be done with papayas, coconuts, palms and many other types of guilds, although some will be much larger than the standard banana circle.",
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      "body": "Today I want to talk to you about a wonderful type of planting arrangement for your culinary herbs.  If you are into permaculture but you have no idea where to start, this is the absolute best thing you can do to get started!  By the way, if you have no idea what permaculture is, you can find out by clicking here.\n\nFirst, let me explain why I can say with such confidence that this is the best first project of any permaculture project.  Bill Mollison said, *\"If you want to change the world, start at your back doorstep\".*  This system starts at the closest door to your kitchen for ease of access and follows the ethics and principles of permaculture.\n\nSo, without further delay, let's get right to it!  Today we are talking about an herb spiral.  What is an herb spiral?  An herb spiral is a 6-foot wide and 3-foot tall circle that is built like a spiral, starting low at the bottom and ending up higher in the middle.\n\nWhy would I want to plant my herbs in a spiral and why would I want it just outside my door?  Why not put my herbs in the garden like everyone else?  Well, these are questions that will be addressed in this article.  After that, we'll get into the actual building of the herb spiral.\n\nSo, why would you want your herbs in a spiral?  The answer to that is remarkably simple.  It takes 30 feet of planting space and wraps it up into a 6-foot circle!  That in itself is incredible, but there's much more to it than that.  By raising the center you also create many microclimates allowing for plants of different climate requirements to all coexist in a single location, which is also extremely convenient.\n\n![](https://steemitimages.com/DQmRt5CD9JYwnTn9paPwQhepaeD3WZVhKNRnWf7sLkaatV9/image.png)\n*Herb Spiral Drawing – Permaculture: A Designer’s Manual by Bill Mollison*\n\nSo why should you build one of these when you could just put your herbs in your garden.  Well, I still recommend putting herbs in your garden, as they are very beneficial by bringing in predatory insects and pollinators, but the reason you want an herb spiral right outside the kitchen is for ease of access. Whenever you need fresh herbs, you can easily access the herb spiral without having to tread all the way out to the garden, another convenience factor.\n\nThere is so much room in a properly built herb spiral.  Let's get into the actual build.  Ok, first you'll need to choose a location.  We have already decided it should be as close to the kitchen as possible, but you will need a location that gets at least 6 hours of sun per day and has a level surface or can be easily leveled.   After you choose your location and make sure it's level you'll want to kill any grass if there is any remaining.  There are a couple of ways to do that (please no herbicides!) and I suggest cutting the grass out, turning it upside down and then leveling.  The other option is just to lay down a couple layers of cardboard or a thick layer of newspaper (no shiny paper).\n\nNext, you need to choose your building material.  This is completely up to you but some kind of stone is best as this will create habitat for lizards and other predators to help with pest issues.  After choosing your material, layout your spiral.  Some people use spray paint but I suggest a garden hose as that is free and is easy to change if you decide you want it different.  When choosing the layout, make sure you have the start of the spiral at the bottom where you want it, either in the sunny or shady location.  If you're in the northern hemisphere, that will be the southern exposure.  Vice versa in the southern hemisphere.  I just used the rock to do the layout, and this was labor intensive because I did want to change it before getting started.\n\n![](https://steemitimages.com/DQmT5hntw1zxiwsanuHuLzBNWvhduWd6HfVRg4UbWT5x1Q1/image.png)\n*My layout*\n\nThere is also the option of adding a small pond at the base of the spiral which will serve to grow water loving plants, attract frogs and reflect light back up to the plants to encourage winter growth.  I have not yet added the pond to mine but that is planned for this fall once the temperatures cool down a bit.  The pond can be very small, about 1 square foot or so is fine!\n\nAfter you have the layout, start stacking the rocks.  No mortar is needed and is actually discouraged because you want well-draining soil, especially on the top.  I also suggest just every so slightly leaning the layers to the interior of the spiral, that way when you fill with soil, it will exert outward pressure and straighten up the structure.\n\nAfter the structure is built, starting filling.  Before adding soil, however, keep in mind we are building microclimates here and the raised portion is for well-draining soil requirements.  I added broken bricks and old limestone driveway fill in the inner half of the spiral.  Also, keep in mind that some plants actually like soggy soil.  For the very outward and bottom spiral fingers, consider using a heavy clay based soil that will retain moisture well.\n\n![](https://steemitimages.com/DQmd7uMr5X4iuv8hV61bqSX3f6AvuFuwjQSrLQiwvho5H9i/image.png)\n*Notice the rocks at the bottom for extra drainage.*\n\n![](https://steemitimages.com/DQmPqM9Sf9wNYVdiXxGYwY9um3V9dC3BsE2ovuEfanjAuFS/image.png)\n*After that, fill it with soil.*\n\n![](https://steemitimages.com/DQmYz1ef8QHygyGm8cfAAPkBbngkvBV7HGUiUwWsEaGJEyp/image.png)\n\nThe only thing left to do now is plant!  Remember the microclimates!  This is super important as you would not want to put rosemary at the bottom as it is a Mediterranean herb and hates wet roots!  I put rosemary at the very top center followed by lacoriander, thyme, oregano, a different variety of thyme, chives and green onions, cilantro/coriander, basil and dill.  There is room for more and I'll be planting more soon.\n\n![](https://steemitimages.com/DQmcSowHX8gL44AYaiJqPx4mPo8ZBArEN54p18hEkdTjQcu/image.png)\n*This was planted April 7, 2017.*\n\n![](https://steemitimages.com/DQmSxQZHZgWLxqk5CdcZE1MDzBLiKrjThWkFErWNCcp1yUJ/image.png)\n*And this was after only 2 months!*\n\nIf you are into permaculture and want to start your first project, build an herb spiral.  If you already have some permaculture established on your site but have not yet put in an herb spiral I highly encourage you to build one as soon as possible!  The growth from this is amazing due to all the microclimates.  We hardly water it, we never have bugs due to the lizards and frogs and we enjoy the simple beauty of this object just outside our patio!\n\nIf you have any questions or comments, please drop them in the form below. Happy growing!",
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      "body": "Permaculture integrates land, resources, people and the environment through mutually beneficial relationships – imitating the no waste, closed loop systems seen in diverse natural systems. Permaculture observes and applies holistic solutions that are applicable in rural and urban contexts at any scale.\n\nPermaculture is a word originally coined by Bill Mollison and David Holmgren in the mid-1970’s to describe an “integrated, evolving system of perennial or self-perpetuating plant and animal species useful to man.”\n\nA more current definition of permaculture, which reflects the expansion of focus implicit in Permaculture One, is ‘Consciously designed landscapes which mimic the patterns and relationships found in nature while yielding an abundance of food, fiber and energy for provision of local needs. People, their buildings and the ways in which they organize themselves are central to permaculture. Thus the permaculture vision of permanent or sustainable agriculture has evolved to one of permanent or sustainable culture.'\n\nPermaculture is not just about food and edible landscapes, although we talk much about that.  Permaculture is guided by 3 major elements as outlined below:\n\n__*The Prime Directive.*__\n\n**The only ethical decisions is to take responsibility for our own existence and that of our children.**\n\n__*The 3 Ethics.*__\n\n**Care of Earth** - We are all dependent on a healthy planet to sustain us. To endanger life on this planet is to endanger ourselves. This is clear enough. All life has an inherent value. Once this is recognized, thoughtless environmental destruction can be avoided.\n\n**Care of People** - People Care begins with ourselves and expands to include our families, neighbors and communities. The challenge is to grow through self-reliance and personal responsibility. Self-reliance becomes more feasible when we focus on non-material well-being, taking care of ourselves and others without producing or consuming unnecessary material resources.\n\nBy accepting personal responsibility for our situation as far as possible, rather than blaming others, we empower ourselves. If we can recognize that a greater wisdom lies within a group of people, we can work with others to bring about the best outcomes for all involved.\n\n**Return of Surplus** - Energy has to flow, as nutrients have to cycle. Stagnation leads to unfit systems. The products of a system have to go back into that system to maintain its health and future viability.\nSee this video for a visual demonstration of permaculture ethics.\n\n\n\n__*12 Principles.*__\n\n**Observe and Interact** – “Beauty is in the mind of the beholder”\nBy taking the time to engage with nature we can design solutions that suit our particular situation.\n\n**Catch and Store Energy** – “Make hay while the sun shines”\nBy developing systems that collect resources when they are abundant, we can use them in times of need.\n\n**Obtain a yield** – “You can’t work on an empty stomach”\nEnsure that you are getting truly useful rewards as part of the working you are doing.\n\n**Apply Self Regulation and Accept Feedback** – “The sins of the fathers are visited on the children of the seventh generation”\nWe need to discourage inappropriate activity to ensure that systems can continue to function well. Negative feedback is often slow to emerge.\n\n**Use and Value Renewable Resources and Services** – “Let nature take its course”\nMake the best use of nature’s abundance to reduce our consumptive behavior and dependence on non-renewable resources.\n\n**Produce No Waste** – “Waste not, want not” or “A stitch in time saves nine”\nBy valuing and making use of all the resources that are available to us, nothing goes to waste.\n\n**Design From Patterns to Details** – “Can’t see the forest for the trees”\nBy stepping back, we can observe patterns in nature and society. These can form the backbone of our designs, with the details filled in as we go.\n\n**Integrate Rather Than Segregate** – “Many hands make light work”\nBy putting the right things in the right place, relationships develop between those things and they work together to support each other.\n\n**Use Small and Slow Solutions** – “Slow and steady wins the race” or “The bigger they are, the harder they fall”\nSmall and slow systems are easier to maintain than big ones, making better use of local resources and produce more sustainable outcomes.\n\n**Use and Value Diversity** – “Don’t put all your eggs in one basket”\nDiversity reduces vulnerability to a variety of threats and takes advantage of the unique nature of the environment in which it resides.\n\n**Use Edges and Value the Margina**l – “Don’t think you are on the right track just because it’s a well-beaten path”\nThe interface between things is where the most interesting events take place. These are often the most valuable, diverse and productive elements in the system.\n\n**Creatively Use and Respond to Change** – “Vision is not seeing things as they are but as they will be”\nWe can have a positive impact on inevitable change by carefully observing and then intervening at the right time.\n\nSee this video for a visual demonstration... https://youtu.be/0mwRAf3z9ag",
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      "body": "![Waning Gibbous.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmPtfZbZx2qif8xcH8JwLDdDkPEBrT6KHawxP9LoMPWpCa/Waning%20Gibbous.jpg)\n\nThis series is designed around southern gardeners, specifically USDA Zones 8 & 9. In this series, we’ll talk about what can be done in the garden each month and on what days we should be doing what tasks according to the moon.\n\nToday is another article in the Gardening by the Moon series and today we talk about root vegetables.  Today’s moon is the Waning Gibbous, the first phase after a Full Moon.  That means today is the day that we plant for root growth.  This would include things like carrots, parsnips, onion and garlic.\n\nWe are about a week away from our first predicted frost date here in Zone 9a. However, our 10-day forecast only puts our low at 59 degrees so we might have another month before our first frost.  We could also plant radish, turnips, beets and rutabaga.  As long as these get somewhat established before a frost, they will survive just fine.\n\nUp next in Gardening by the Moon will be tomorrow through the 14th.  During this time is when we will be harvesting, cultivating and controlling pests.  The rest of the month we will focus on pruning, watering and composting until the next article in the series.  Until then, happy gardening and happy Thanksgiving!",
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